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King Bumpstops

bump051.jpg


These are what we use on our Comp rig.

Dave
 
AZXJ said:
bump051.jpg


These are what we use on our Comp rig.

Dave

So will they work or not?:D

Dave, you guys know (sorta, but not really) how my rig is set-up at the moment. Think if I buy them I could bring it down there and you could fab me up a mount or figure out a way to make them work?
 
I am not running Kings, but am running Bilstein bumps....I love them!

IMG_0539.jpg
 
Yes, they work great!!! Yes, we can fab up the mounts for you..

I actually like this setup better for the XJ's..

p_acospro3.jpg
 
you could use the Rockkrawler rear coil conversion brackets to mount the ACOS Pro's to.

kinda hard to make out, Once I get my kit in I'll take some more detailed pictures.
RKXJREARCC_02.jpg


Here's Polyperformance's Air bump mount kit.
100896-md.jpg
 
AZCA jeeper said:
Anyone running these?

http://www.kingshocks.com/bumpstops1.html

I'm a few clicks away from buying them but I want to be sure on a few things. Is there a way to mount them without too much work involved? Will they be too long to work with my 3.5" lift? What size should I get, 2.0 or 2.5?

Yes, they will work well. You don't have to use the Kings, though they are a great product. Sway-a-way, Fox, Bilstein and others also make a hydraulic bumpstop and they all do the same thing. I think you'd need to stick with a 2", the 2.5" would be hard to fit and would really be overkill for your setup. The JKS ACOS system that uses a hydraulic bump is a pretty slick setup, the one that's posted above. Also, T&J performance makes a hydraulic bump mount that goes inside the coil spring and replaces the existing bump stop, at a pretty reasonable price. http://www.tandjperformance.com/products/barnet/adjustable%20_brackets_fbs.shtml


What's the rest of your setup? And what is your goal? You may be able to do what you want without spending that kind of money or fabrication.
 
Goatman said:
Yes, they will work well. You don't have to use the Kings, though they are a great product. Sway-a-way, Fox, Bilstein and others also make a hydraulic bumpstop and they all do the same thing. I think you'd need to stick with a 2", the 2.5" would be hard to fit and would really be overkill for your setup. The JKS ACOS system that uses a hydraulic bump is a pretty slick setup, the one that's posted above. Also, T&J performance makes a hydraulic bump mount that goes inside the coil spring and replaces the existing bump stop, at a pretty reasonable price. http://www.tandjperformance.com/products/barnet/adjustable%20_brackets_fbs.shtml


What's the rest of your setup? And what is your goal? You may be able to do what you want without spending that kind of money or fabrication.

My goal? Something like JeepSpeed (handle high speed desert runs) with front Coilovers roll cage ect, but can really crawl the rocks too(D44 front, Ford 9" rear trussed locked ect) I may eventually have to step it up to the 2.5 but for right now and a large chunk of the future the 2.0 will suit me just fine. Is it only possible to use hydraulic bumpstops on the front?

Thanks for all the help guys.
 
i was having difficulties finding the picture, but i finally found it
2252199090049057516s425wo8.jpg



dunno if youve looked at the prices for kings.... but fsk that! its one thing to splurge for their racing history on 3.5 triple bypasses... but pretty much hyd. bumpstops are all the same.... no reason to pay extra, foxes come in blue as well!
 
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also, if you want to go 2.5"... which as goat stated is more work...(cant use jeepspeed oriented mounting hardware with the 2.5's, but as with shocks bigger tube = more oil, more oil = cooler oil) do the OPPOSITE, and buy some FOA bumps, they come 2.5 for pretty much $150 each, as where king and everyone else charge extra (foa ONLY makes 2.5" shocks, so theyre tooled for 2.5 tube)
 
I run the procomp motorsports 2" air bump in the rear. I also got some spring plates from Dirk at DPG, they make a great start point for building the lower pads. Get his whole kit with 1 extension. Use the extension under the plate and run a bracket to the axle tube for extra support. The awesome welding was done by Billy at OTR fabwerks along with the shock hoop.

I love them. Definitely a night and day difference from poly. I plan on putting some up front when $$$ arrives.

You can see some of the rear setup here http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=961334
 
I noticed on the XJ, that it nice if you can use a bump that can be shortened to be a 3" instead of 4". It's not like we have 20" of travel so the longer bump does not really work correctly, you are into the bump way to soon, not allowing the shock to work its best.
 
FordGuy said:
I noticed on the XJ, that it nice if you can use a bump that can be shortened to be a 3" instead of 4". It's not like we have 20" of travel so the longer bump does not really work correctly, you are into the bump way to soon, not allowing the shock to work its best.

Yup, that is very accurate Rich.....you need the bump for 20-30% of the last ounce of travel...
 
FordGuy said:
I noticed on the XJ, that it nice if you can use a bump that can be shortened to be a 3" instead of 4".
school time, can you elaborate on which can and which cannot... how its accomplished, etc) thanks
 
Well, if you only have 5" of uptravel, and a 4" bumpstop, you are in essence only using the first inch of uptravel on your shock at the valving it is set, and in the manner it should be used, then the last 4", are going together with the additional valving of the shock.

This is something to be considered with your shocks. No another point, if you get the shocks, and have them valved knowing you will have a extra 175 psi nitro bump help control, then that paints a different story.

make sense?
 
i was actually looking for info on mechanically limiting some popular hyd bump travel, on the actuall bump. he mentioned it like some cannot be limited,
itd be good to know which
 
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