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Planning on 6.5" and 33's - '97 XJ

gone postal

NAXJA Forum User
Right now I have a 2" lift and it's just to hold me over until I save up/peace meal my ultimate goal together. I will be buying 6.5" coils, bastard pack leafs w/ my current 2" shackles and new shocks. I know a SYE is necessary. Is a hack/tap acceptable or should I use a quality kit such as Advance Adapters, etc? Will a front driveshaft bolt-in (for the rear) or will I HAVE to have an aftermarket (tom's) CV shaft? Also, what else is mandatory? I'm wanting to keep it as cheap as possible, so I'm looking for home-brew ideas. Any fullsize chevy/ford/jeep/etc brake lines work? Are relocation brackets sufficient or do I need new L/U control arms too? What else is mandatory for this to be a safe DD? Trac bar? Pitman arm? etc...

I'm hoping to finish this by summer's end, so I'm in the early planning stages now. I'm also hoping to keep this under $2000. I know that 33x10.50's will be $700-800, so I'm trying to squeeze a lift and gears into the remaining money. I will at least be doing all of the work myself. Thanks.
 
good luck with this.. I think your leafs are going to be stiff.. I would look for a complete lift.. Or just do a 4.5 lift an trim your fenders and bump stop
 
brake lines.....i used the brakes lines off of a wrangler that were for the same year as my xj. theyre about 2 or 3 inches longer in the fron and i think 4 in the vack...maybe. i used a re brake line in the back so idk.
 
i just finished my lift with parts i bought form BDS and rustysoffroad.com and i made my shackels and blocks for the rear ive got myabe $700 in the lift at the most so good luck it is possible
 
I tried one of those budget builds and in the end wished I would have worked some OT and bought a system. Systems are manufactured to work in conjunction with each other and most do very well.
But by piecing together a kit and building some components such as bastard pack I learned a good bit. Youll def need the track bar and Id reccoment some Heavy duty steering w/ Drop Pitman as well. Shims also helped me w/ vibes. Id say go for it
 
Is an SYE a must?
 
gone postal said:
Right now I have a 2" lift and it's just to hold me over until I save up/peace meal my ultimate goal together. I will be buying 6.5" coils, bastard pack leafs w/ my current 2" shackles and new shocks. I know a SYE is necessary. Is a hack/tap acceptable or should I use a quality kit such as Advance Adapters, etc? Will a front driveshaft bolt-in (for the rear) or will I HAVE to have an aftermarket (tom's) CV shaft? Also, what else is mandatory? I'm wanting to keep it as cheap as possible, so I'm looking for home-brew ideas. Any fullsize chevy/ford/jeep/etc brake lines work? Are relocation brackets sufficient or do I need new L/U control arms too? What else is mandatory for this to be a safe DD? Trac bar? Pitman arm? etc...

I'm hoping to finish this by summer's end, so I'm in the early planning stages now. I'm also hoping to keep this under $2000. I know that 33x10.50's will be $700-800, so I'm trying to squeeze a lift and gears into the remaining money. I will at least be doing all of the work myself. Thanks.

at 6.5", you will need long arms or control arm drop brackets, adjustable track bar, longer brake lines, longer swaybar end links, longer bumpstops, shocks, possible steering upgrade, and most likely SYE and driveshaft(s).
 
What about a TC drop and or a longer slip yoke? That would be cost effective really
 
i ran 33 with 6 inches.lots of room..im runnin 35 now with minor trimming...6 inches might a bit to high for 33..my 2 cents.... have fun
 
kahaikapu said:
i ran 33 with 6 inches.lots of room..im runnin 35 now with minor trimming...6 inches might a bit to high for 33..my 2 cents.... have fun

x2

i'd go 4-5" for 33s (w/ trimming & bumpstops). at 6" i'd be thinking 35s.

I also wouldn't forget new gears, brakes, and steering . . .
 
steering, shocks, brake lines, SYE A MUST, long arms, adj. CA, drive shaft and thats just to name what HAS to be (IMO). I have a 4.5" on 33's with some trimming and its doing fine. I am saving up to pc. together a 6.5" as well, so i only will need a few of these things, but as i sit at 4.5", im thinking (looking) at spending at least $1000 to move it up to a 6.5". I am almost willing to say just go buy a 6.5" Long Arm kit and be done with it. That way YOU KNOW you have everything. Thats what i would do if i already didnt have my 4.5"
 
The best bang-for-the-buck lift is the Rouch country 6.5 system ($899) with the drop brackets ($189). Not sure, bit looks like you made need to buy the brakelines extra.You will definately need a sye...hack and tap with a stock front front ds is fine (don't forget the adapter). With 33's, stock steering will be fine unless you like to drive the piss out of your Jeep...then you might want to upgrade. You will want 15x8 or 15x10 rims with 3 3/4" bs to run your 33's. Depending on your state laws...you'll need bigger fender flares (used TJ flares seem to be the cheapest option) and possibly mud flaps.

Don't piece it together, you won't be as happy with it. I've owned and built 11 Jeeps, 5 of which were XJ's, and I've done it both ways...The RC kit is the way to go if you want to keep the cost down, but want a quilty kit.

Smurf

jeep_696s.jpg


jeep_1627.jpg
 
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Can we discuss the need for a SYE a bit more... I am not coming with a 'know-it-all- attitude but to me it seems logical that with a TC drop and longer SY you'll be able to not need a SYE.

I am sure a SYE is the 'best' route but my suggestion should work, right?
 
i dont know enough to explain why you will need a sye, but this is what i was told.....

if your wheeling and for some reason you bust your rear drive shaft, you will be able to take it off and limp out on your front shaft.

i know there are MORE reason WHY you need one, but thats enough for me to get one ???
 
97 and new XJ are prone to rear DS vibration and binding. I ran 8" of lift on my 91 and had the DS lengthened 1" and used a 1" t-case drop. It worked fine, but with my 97, I could not get away with that.

You could try using a DS with a double cardan joint. I ran one on my 89 and it worked good, because it took the stress off the u-joint. You can get it done at an Driveline shop.

High angle Driveline sells them too (which is the one I had.)

208-1350cv1.jpg
 
Twicepardoned said:
Is an SYE a must?
yes, When you lift you'll need to get a longer driveshaft. At 6+ inches, a TC drop is a poor solution. Its a band-aid at best on lower lifts. You lift it 6 inches, drop the t-case 2", still have vibes, but you saved a little money. Get a hack and tap SYE for $100 and a new double CV shaft made up. I got mine together for $399 total. Not exactly cheap, but she rides beautiful now. You'll be happier, longer with doing it the right way.
 
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Appreciate all of the insight. Here is my exact plan (rough estimates courtesy of Ebay)....

6.5" coils - $150
bastard pack - $50 - already have 2" shackles
6" lift shocks - $150
drop brackets - $150
SYE & used XJ front shaft - $250
brake lines - $100
adjustable trac bar - $150
drop pitman arm - $30

I know the RC kit is $1000, but then I'd need brake lines and drop brackets, so I'd be at $1250 + SYE/shaft. $1500 total whereas above i'm at $1000. That's a substantial difference. I don't expect it to ride like a Caddy, but if the bastard pack turns out to be too much, I'll save my way up to new leafs.

Now, that should get it up 6.5" and be driveable assuming drop brackets are enough and I don't need new lower/upper control arms. Will drop brackets be enough? Am I missing anything?

As for tires, I'll be running 33x10.50's on stock wheels. BFG A/T's to be exact.

I know that 4.5" is doable for 33's, but I hate the look of trimmed fenders and like the look of the extra wheel well clearance that 6.5" will afford. I was originally planning on 4.5" and 31's, but the price would work out to be almost the same b/c I'd still need a SYE on this '97 - I have vibes now at only 2"!!!

I guess I should have preferenced this whole thing by saying that this is a DD and pavement pounder. The only wheeling this will see is the beach b/c quite frankly, I live in FL and there is no wheeling to be done around here. There are a few spots were I could go drop it off into some mud, but I've been there, done that w/ previous vehicles and I'm over it. I actually loathe it. So, honestly this is more of a show thing, but I want it to be capable if the need arises.

So, I'm basically looking for the absolute necessities. I doubt my steering will be taxed by DDing. I am planning on the steering box strengthening plate - heard that area is prone to cracking. Otherwise, are any other steering components necessary? I will have the ability to piece things together a $100 or so if need be, but I'm looking to get it driving safely for the $2k.

As for gears, they will be done. Maybe not w/ the initial $2k, but they're not that expensive and I'll be doing them myself, so I'm hoping to be only $200-300 short at most.
 
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