rear main seal help

[markg]

about a yr ago we put a new rear main in it.never leaked a drop till about a week ago.now its leaking like a seive.at 1st i though maybe the pcv but they apperently dont use one.any ideas?
also i used a one pc rubber oil pan gasket (about 30 bux)is it reusable after a year?

thanks

[Saudade]

Check your valve cover gasket at the rear. If it leaks there, oil will run down the back of the block.

As for the gasket, if you can get it off in one piece and it still feels pliable, I'd use it. Use some silicone when you put it back on.

[jeepdude10000]

if ur going to take ur oil pan off why reuse the gasket, dont be cheap, ur just asking for problems, and if ur going to replace the seal again, buy a more expensive one, not just what theyv'e got on hand, there are different brands and not all are make equil.

[Blue XJ]

I would assume if its leaking again, the crankshaft has a groove in it. They sell a double lip seal that technically acts like two seals and seals against the crank in a different spot.

[falcon556]

I would assume if its leaking again, the crankshaft has a groove in it. They sell a double lip seal that technically acts like two seals and seals against the crank in a different spot.

Who sells the double lip?

[5-90]

Fel-Pro P/N BS40612, Double Lip Rear Main Crankshaft Oil Seal, 1987-2000 4.0L

5-90

[falcon556]

Fel-Pro P/N BS40612, Double Lip Rear Main Crankshaft Oil Seal, 1987-2000 4.0L

5-90

Thanks.

[5-90]

Thanks.

No problem. One of these days, I hope to get it all encoded into HTML so you can refer to it freely...

5-90

[falcon556]

No problem. One of these days, I hope to get it all encoded into HTML so you can refer to it freely...

5-90

That would be great!

[5-90]

That would be great!

That's why I'm working on it, and that's why WiP has a "Tech Archive" section...

I also need to finish encoding all the torque tables I'm working on. I should go ahead and up what I've done so far, so that at least can be referred to...

5-90

[falcon556]

That's why I'm working on it, and that's why WiP has a "Tech Archive" section...

I also need to finish encoding all the torque tables I'm working on. I should go ahead and up what I've done so far, so that at least can be referred to...

5-90

Sure, post what you have, update when possible.

[markg]

wow

awsome advice guys!
ill try the dual lip seal

thanks again for all of the replies!

[5-90]

The first of the torque charts are up - click the link in my sig, and go to the "Tech Archive" section.

All information posted will be either from manufacturer literature or FSMs, just to be sure I'm citing an authoritative source (and eliminating the possibility of losing something in translation - as far as encoding, I check, double-check, triple-check, and then lock Murphy in a closet...)

5-90

[markg]

Fel-Pro P/N BS40612, Double Lip Rear Main Crankshaft Oil Seal, 1987-2000 4.0L

5-90



all of my local auto part stores stock this pn only for a replacement.i called felpro today to ask about the double lip and he says the double lip is the only one they sell for it and that the double lip was nothing special.in fact the factory one was also a double lip.their replacement rides in the exact same spot as the original.

could oil be leaking from somewhere else to come out of the trans insp plate?the vc gasket seems fine but im gonna look again tonite.the reasn i ask is because even after it is turned off it still leaks for a long while and overnite there will be a large puddle under the eng.the main seems high up and seems to me that once off it would stop leaking right away

thanks again for all of the help!

[falcon556]

all of my local auto part stores stock this pn only for a replacement.i called felpro today to ask about the double lip and he says the double lip is the only one they sell for it and that the double lip was nothing special.in fact the factory one was also a double lip.their replacement rides in the exact same spot as the original.

I replaced one of them a few years back and I am pretty sure that there was nothing double about the seal both original and replacement.
In fact I was somewhat disapointed with the flimsy lip.

[markg]

replaced the vc gasket last nite.didnt see anything unusually wrong.cleaned it all very well including the baffles.i was hoping there was a small vc leak near the back that i couldnt see.
still leaking like crazy.
tomorrow the pan comes down again.
so much oil is coming out it looks as if there is no rear main seal at all.i just dont understand it.
ill keep ya posted.

[markg]

just how important id the liquid soap deal?.im going to pull the pan tomorrow.any insight as to why this my have failed after only a yr is appreciated.
thanks
mark

i know i didnt use liquid soap last time.i may have lubricated the top half with oil too to get it to go in easier.

[5-90]

I don't usually use soap - when I do a rear main, the first thing I do is pour a small parts bin full of clean engine oil and throw the seal it.

You may want to inspect the sealing surface of the crank rather more thoroughly - use a fingernail to feel for a groove. If you can feel it, it will probably cause a leak.

As far as the seal lip, it's going to be fairly flimsy. There's not a lot of pressure behind that seal (and make sure you install it the right way around - the little "V" under the lip should be toward the INSIDE of the engine!) because most of the pressure will bleed off through the forward bearing gap. Granted, there's a little more there than there is behind an axle seal, but it's still not so much (try sealing a power steering box!)

I'm not sure of the utility of lubricating the seal, but I feel better doing it, and it's not caused me any trouble, so I see no reason to stop doing it. The clean oil you used to soak the seal can just be poured right into the engine...

5-90

[XgeekstarX]

i have a bs40612 in my jeep right now and it definitely was not double ribbed

hasn't leaked a drop though.

[markg]

thanks

ill let cha know how it goes.

[markg]

couldnt wait till morning.

i pulled the pan tonite.the seal is broken in the back where it is round on the pan(one pc gasket)it must not have gone on straight when we put it on and held for as long as it did till it finally blew out.i have a new 1 pc gasket and this time i would like to use gasket sealer to glue it so it stays in place.should it be glued(using the "right stuff")to the block 1st?or to the pan?
no instructions with the gasket.

thanks for all of the help!

[5-90]

Apply a thin bead to the engine side of the gasket, and stick it in place. Once it's up, apply a thin bead to the other side.

I find it helpful to have abour four studs in place to keep everything aligned while you're working - it saves wrestling. Valve cover studs for Small Block Chevvy will work just fine - you'll only need four (six if you really want...)

5-90

[markg]

thanks for all of the help guys!

it went fine.i must not have gotten the rear of the pan gasket properly in place last time and it was not in the groove.this time i glued it to the pan and let it set a bit so it was still pliable(sp)i also moved the insp plate out of the way so i could put the pan straight up this time.

thanks again for all of the acvice!

[falcon556]

Check your valve cover gasket at the rear. If it leaks there, oil will run down the back of the block.

As for the gasket, if you can get it off in one piece and it still feels pliable, I'd use it. Use some silicone when you put it back on.

I was getting ready for a rear main change, had quite a mess back there.
Before doing that, I replaced the VC gasket and oil filter adapter "O" rings.
After that I realized that I no longer had a "rear main seal" problem.

[OverlandXJ]

i have a bs40612 in my jeep right now and it definitely was not double ribbed

hasn't leaked a drop though.

I have that seal in my console....just triple checked and it's dual lip. Took a pic i'll post up later.


On getting the one piece seal to stay put so you have no movement while installing the pan. I never thought of Right Stuff.

I have used with great success the semi permanent Hi-Tack (yellow). You glue the engine side of seal, take the oil pan bolts and bolt the seal up fingertight overnight. Next day remove the bolts and install the oilpan....gasket wont go anywhere. Obviously this takes a bit longer, but i have no worries the seal will move before i get the pan secured in place.

[CartsXJ]

I was getting ready for a rear main change, had quite a mess back there.
Before doing that, I replaced the VC gasket and oil filter adapter "O" rings.
After that I realized that I no longer had a "rear main seal" problem.

This is my next step in the oil leaking saga of mine. After three main seal changes and a valve cover gasket change, its the only thing I can figure out thats left. Now I know I've always had a leak from that area, but I never thought it would cause all that oil. But its the only thing I can figure out that left. Is there any other place that oil can leak from on the 4.0L between the tranny bell housing and the block?

[Gerr]

couldnt wait till morning.

i pulled the pan tonite.the seal is broken in the back where it is round on the pan(one pc gasket)it must not have gone on straight when we put it on and held for as long as it did till it finally blew out.i have a new 1 pc gasket and this time i would like to use gasket sealer to glue it so it stays in place.should it be glued(using the "right stuff")to the block 1st?or to the pan?
no instructions with the gasket.

thanks for all of the help!
i had the same problem, i fixed it with a little rtv to hold it in place while i tightened it all up the second time. I asked around back when it happened and it is very common

[mwm]

did anyone have trouble getting the lower part of the rear main out of the bearing cap? And once i get the thing out do i put RTV on the flat edges on the lower section of the rear main then just bolt that bearing cap back up? Is it nessesary to use silicon if uve bought a 1 pc rubber oil pan gasket?

[Fish'nCarz]

couldnt wait till morning.

i pulled the pan tonite.the seal is broken in the back where it is round on the pan(one pc gasket)it must not have gone on straight when we put it on and held for as long as it did till it finally blew out.i have a new 1 pc gasket and this time i would like to use gasket sealer to glue it so it stays in place.should it be glued(using the "right stuff")to the block 1st?or to the pan?
no instructions with the gasket.

thanks for all of the help!

I had a similar problem. But the gasket was installed by the dealer! I have a photo somewhere, they just totally f%&ked-up the gasket at the 'hump' area when they installed it. I went ahead and installed a new rear main seal. Figured as long as I'm there, and now I didn't have a lot of confidence in their skills. Their rear main install used globs of rtv, there were hunks of it stuck on the oil pan insides.

The Felpro rear main kit (rear main seal and oil pan gasket)had 4 studs in it for aligning the oil pan, I guess. That's what I used them for anyway.

[xjfreak40]

you might also want to check the oil filter neck. Mine leaks from the base, and the oil runs back and drips out from the bell housing. It's possible that that could be the source of your oil leak. The XJ's just have a pair of metal washers for seals on that neck, and if that is your problem it will usually stop leaking if you take that off and clean it up really well. worked for me!

[aszaunmi]

I just replaced the oil filter adapter orings (3) for 1990. Cost is about 10 bucks and it took about 15 mins.

[jdxj]

Fel-Pro P/N BS40612, Double Lip Rear Main Crankshaft Oil Seal, 1987-2000 4.0L

5-90
Will it work on my 2001? XJ 4.0

[Celtiksteel]

Fel-Pro P/N BS40612, Double Lip Rear Main Crankshaft Oil Seal, 1987-2000 4.0L

5-90 I would like to know more about this 2 lip seal..I'm facing a second install on my own 94..4.0L..It's been about 3 months, since I changed the RMS..Up in the air, I located the leak, and it's coming out of the bottom of the bell housing area again..When apart, I inspected the crankshaft surface, with even-more experienced techs, and determined that surface to be OK. So..With minimal damage if any, to the CS surface, is it your opinion that this 2-lip seal m ight be the next step??Before engine (rebuild)??

[falcon556]

I would like to know more about this 2 lip seal..I'm facing a second install on my own 94..4.0L..It's been about 3 months, since I changed the RMS..Up in the air, I located the leak, and it's coming out of the bottom of the bell housing area again..When apart, I inspected the crankshaft surface, with even-more experienced techs, and determined that surface to be OK. So..With minimal damage if any, to the CS surface, is it your opinion that this 2-lip seal m ight be the next step??Before engine (rebuild)??

Double check the valve cover gasket (especially in the back) and the oil filter adapter just in case they are causing the leak.