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treadLightly
August 27th, 2003, 04:59
Ok... finally got the TC Drop installed. Now I have a bolt that will not tighten all the way (one of the crossmember bolts). It goes in most of the way and then it turns almost a full turn and then pops back. I tried 2 different bolts with the same results.

Is this a sign of a stripped nut or just some damaged threads? What is the best solution? Can I just tap it with an M10 tap?

The other three bolts went in just fine, but I don't want to drive around like this too long!!!

BTW, TC Drop fixed all my driveline problems. Thanks everyone for the help along the way!!!
ChiXJeff
August 27th, 2003, 07:37
:D No, those threads NEVER strip out.......

If if pops back, then I'd figure pretty much every thread is messed up, on both bolt and weldnut. You can try cleaning up the threads with the right size tap, but the pop-back means the whole assembly isn't right. If you go up a size, you need to get rid of all of the old threads or you're going to sacrifice some strength.

I've broken off both studs, and ended up drilling the stubs and the old threads out, then threading what's left for a new bolt. At least 2 years on everything.
treadLightly
August 27th, 2003, 08:53
I will definitely try tapping it to clean the threads first, but if that fails is there any alternative to drilling it out and re-tapping it? Could I just use a slightly larger self-tapping bolt??? Or is that just a bad idea?
ChiXJeff
August 27th, 2003, 09:18
I wouldn't use a self-tapping bolt for something like a crossmember. I'd rather get better threads out of a good tap.

Alternatives? Well.......... yeah, there are several. And a lot of downsides. Brainstorming mode (again).......

1: Clean out the threads, and try the stock bolt.
2: Drill out threads, use a self-tapping bolt.
3: Drill out threads, tap new threads for a larger bolt.
4: Knock weldnut loose, and fish a new nut in through the frame rail. Method left as exercise for student.
5: Knock weldnut loose, and weld new nut in from the bottom.
6: Knock out weldnut, and fab a reinforcing plate with weldnuts to attach to the bottom of the frame rail.

#4, 5, and 6 are all a bunch more work and especially #4 would be just plain miserable.

Hmmmmm........... now you got me thinking. I ended up doing a #6 on my front swaybar mounts, this should actually work pretty darned good if I ever have to fix those threads again.
treadLightly
August 27th, 2003, 09:35
Thanks for all the info. I really appreciate it... I'm hoping that tapping and cleaning the existing threads will work, but if not I guess I will drill it and tap it for a larger bolt. I am definitely going to avoid #4,5,&6!!! To much work for me!!!
ChuckD
August 27th, 2003, 10:45
You could always knock it out and the get a 3/8" nutzert for about $1.00, I think that would be the best comprise between strength and labor.
ChiXJeff
August 27th, 2003, 11:09
Originally posted by XJCHUCK72
You could always knock it out and the get a 3/8" nutzert for about $1.00, I think that would be the best comprise between strength and labor.

I spent some time looking up the performance specs on nutserts this week, and apparently was looking at the wrong page. Or got my unit conversion mixed up (wouldn't be the first time!)

See http://www.avdelcherry.textron.com/dl.html. The 3/8" nutserts have a much higher pull-out rating than I thought.

BTW, http://www.rivetsplus.com has them in boxes of a hundred for around $30.
RCP Phx
August 27th, 2003, 15:41
How about using a "Heli-coil"!
treadLightly
August 27th, 2003, 17:45
Originally posted by XJCHUCK72
You could always knock it out and the get a 3/8" nutzert for about $1.00, I think that would be the best comprise between strength and labor.

Please forgive my ignorance, but what is a "nutzert" and how does it work???

Also, I tried tapping with a 10mm tap to "clean" the threads with no success. Aside from using the "nutzert", should I drill the threads out with a 10mm bit (or closest standard equivalent) and tap 1/32 or 1/16 bigger?

Thanks!
RCP Phx
August 27th, 2003, 17:54
Its nothing more than a "theaded" two-piece rivet.My sliders are mounted with 1/4-20 "nut-serts",so far so good.Bent the install tool putting them in though,they are pretty tough to "set" in steel sizes 1/4" and up!
ChuckD
August 27th, 2003, 18:49
http://www.rivetsplus.com/DLkit.gif
lobsterdmb
August 27th, 2003, 19:14
do you know the mopar part number for these cause the local hardware store is absolutely useless
ChuckD
August 28th, 2003, 05:41
The only thing the Dealership would have would be the rubber kind, I gotthe picture from the link mention above. Try searching your area for a fastener store. Like you have noticed HW stores do not carry these.
XJMark
August 28th, 2003, 07:42
Look in the phone book for a bolt & screw dealer. They have everything you could ever need in terms of fasteners and are usually very knowledgable about it. That turned out to be the only place in my area that I could get metric bolts to complete my homemade T-case drop. Price was nice too, only .48 a bolt.

Mark
ChiXJeff
August 28th, 2003, 08:38
http://www.fastenal.com is a good place to start, they've got locations all over most of the metro areas.

The nice thing about using local suppliers is that you can usually put your hands on a part if you've got any question at all about fit.