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Brake Leak!!!

XJ Stryker

XJ Stryker

WHO DAT!
Location
Smiths Station, Al
Well i was filling the tranny with fluid and was on my 4th quart and holding the brake shifting through the gears trying to get it warm and cycle some fluid when I hear and feel a release of pressure in the brakes and my foot hits the ground. I shut the vehicle off and find the leak. It is right by the fuel filter over the axle. There is a rubber hose that meets and metal connector. I cant break the connector lose at the arrow in the picture. It has to be a 9mm (which is the only size i dont have) cause 3/8 to big and 8mm and 5/16 doesnt fit. I have sprayed it with 555 and wire brushed it. My ??? is can i just cut this line and hose clamp a tube bypassing this connector then resecure it to the undercarriage. How much pressure would be in this general area. :dunno:

Arrow is also pointing to the exact place the fluid is coming out

brakeleak.jpg


What are your thoughts... 5-90 :wantyou:

Are anyone else lol
 
Last edited:
Put a 5/8" wrinch on the brake hose side and use vice-grips on the line nut. Replace the steel line up to the next union or all the way to the master or antilock unit. Once you replace the line you will need to blead the air out of the rear brakes.
 
see that is a LONG ass line i would have to pull from a junk yard. I am hoping to find a simpler way to avoid replacing the entire line I lose it when it gets to the engine compartment although i am sure it goes to the brake manifold area. Ofcourse i will bleed the system once replaced just seeing if there is any way to avoid replacing the whole line
 
You would want to get a new steel line from the parts store. With out a flair tool there is no safe way to splice the lines togather. You would also want to run it all the way to the front because the line is the same age and rusty to the front.
 
Just went through this last weekend. I was replacing wheel cylinders and star adjusters and of course all the flare nuts broke off and had to be reflared. I took the opportunity to replace that flexible line with my longer yj one. When I disconnected the line at that point you have in your pic of course it broke too. I guess you have to decide how rough the line is the rest of the way. Looks rough from the pic. If you think it's ok then just cut that line as tight to the nut as possible and reflare the line, dont forget the flare nut first. How many times have I done that? You have to manipulate the line to make up for the part you cut off but no problem. Think about replacing that flex line with an extended one while youre at it all. Good luck. By the way a flare kit is really cheap and good to have.
 
No way should you clamp a rubber hose to the brake line. It will not hold long enough for you to run down to the corner store. I have used compression fitting, (even though you are not supposed to), and they have lasted the life of the vehicle. The way you are supposed to do it, besides replacing the whole metal line, is to use a flaring tool on the closest piece of "good" metal brake line and use a new piece to go from there to the rubber hose using a union to join the two metal lines.
 
Replace it all the all the way up to the proportioning valve. Not a real big job and the peace of mind will be worth it. I'd replace the rubber line and the two going to rear wheel cylinders while at it, again not a big job and not costly at all. It'll take ya an afternoon working leisurely. The clip where the rubber line and metal meet are dirt cheap. Part# 637427
 
Definitely do NOT just hose clamp it because that line has a lot of pressure on it and a hose clamp will not hold that kind of pressure. Replace it with a new steel line from any competent parts house. Use a pipe wrench to get it broken loose. It it already chewed to s**t so the whole thing should be replaced anyway. Never try to shortcut your brakes. Buy a set of line wrenches in both SAE and Metric for the future but a pipe wrench will break it loose for now.
 
dont hose clamp it. replace the entire line back to the valve. its not that bad, buy a couple fittings, a roll of soft brake line, rent a double flaring tool, and a cutting tool and youre good, costs about 50$ and you now have brand new lines. then bleed of course. had to do this last month
 
replace the hard line and soft line, for the cost of your life this will cost very little. About 10$ at napa for a hard line if you bend it and 40 or so for the soft one + a little paitence
 
Yeah a lot of paitence on an 87 everything takes a lot of patience there is no easy way to do any of this looks like. I have a decent set of line wrenches but i am battling corroded rust lol. I am going to attempt to replace the whole metal line i am just having a lil difficulty finding what the other end hooks up too with out haveing to remove all my stuff. Any one seen a write up on this with pictures lol... Hey maybe i will make pictures of my woes with this one. My bud told me to use compression fittings and just replace the line as far back as comfortable.

I just read in one of yalls post that it may be a bad idea to use them. what is the overall consensus on compression fittings
 
If the piece in the picture breaks go ahead and buy a t fitting from the t-case there also it is 16.99. Found that the line is a rust weld to the hose and i had to cut it out. But i bought 10 ft of brake line also for like 12 bucks and a compression fitting incase i cant make it all the way back to the mast cylinder.

Have fun job actually is pretty easy
 
DON'T USE COMPRESSION FITTINGS!!!! replumb the whole damn thing, go on ebay and buy a roll of 3/16" tubing (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/25-Brake-Line-Coil-Roll-3-16-Very-low-start-)...I've bought rolls and rolls from this guy along with fittings steel and SS, never had prob. fast service.
You can replumb ALL the hard lines for about $30. You get to spend an afternoon doing something constructive and also get to look at all the rust under these things and wonder "is it worth it...lol"
 
I have heard from people on here and my bud that they have used compression fittings with no problem. What is the major concern with compression fittings. They look like they would hold up just fine and even auto zone said there wouldnt be a problem with compression fittings.
 
I'm surprised that AZ said they would be OK. In MOST staes it is illegal to use compression fittings in a motor vehicle brakeing system. I sure don't want to depend on that little piece of brass holding up to the pressure exerted on a brake line.
There are high pressure fittings that would prob. be fine but I still don't want to depend on them
Nothing like a good double flare that you made youself.
 
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