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what would be invovled with this kit?

thats way to much money to dump into a 30, and not to mention it aint a great idea to have shafts stronger then the pinion
 
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yes, to answer your question, its an open diff til you engage the ARB. your u-joints will fail before your pinion does, so i'm not really sure waht the above comment was referring to....I'd much rather replace a $20 u-joint than a couple hundred dollar shaft. you've gotta have a weak point somewhere....so you're not an advocate of ANY chromolly shafts?

the 30 is a lot better of an axle than people give credit. its plenty for 33s, and if you beef it up enough, you could run 35s, as long as you are easy on the skinny pedal. its all about what kind of wheeling you do.

personally, i think an ARB is more of a pain in the ass than anything else. there's so much that goes into installing one. I'd rather have an Aussie up front and a warn hub kit...
 
also just to clarify you won't be in full time, that is a differential thats in the transfer case. Your front axles will just both go through the diff and your ds will turn all the time.
 
I run the 30 spline ARB with alloy-usa 30 spline shafts, CTM's and alloy usa 30 spline stubs and unit bearings. I have a truss and crane diff cover. I used Precision brand 4.88 gears.

I *FLOG* my dana 30 with 35s and have no fear if it breaking.

As for rather break a $20 u-joint, thats a great theory if you carry spare balljoints and a press with you on the trail. I'd rather break a shaft and have to run on stubs and winch a few times than spend the day replacing broken balljoints.

interferance.jpg

balljoint-seperation.jpg

carnage2.jpg


Run the strongest u-joint you can afford. Its the weakest point with the highest show-stopper ability.
 
Mopar It said:
warn hub kits are very expensive though aren't they? so you guys are implying i should get a lunchbox locker and leave it 27 spline?
Click to expand...

If you were going 27 spline and hubs, you can get the milemarker 27 spline hub kit pretty cheap, compared to the warn at least.
 
im afraid i dont understand cal. your saying if i stick with 27 spline i should get the milemarker hub conversion but only if i get one piece passenger shaft right?
 
No, I was just pointing out there is a milemarker kit cheaper than the warn it.

I do think you should get 1 piece CrMo shafts, Alloy USA or Superior brand.

Myself, I'm all for doing the 30 spline. I think its the best upgrade I ever did for my jeep.

If i were you, and you wanted to make it strong, I'd call up Reider Racing (which is part of alloy-usa) and see what kind of deal they will give you on going 30 spline all the way through - arb, inner shafts, outer shafts, unit bearings, etc. Good parts, and a 10 year no questions asked warrantee on the shafts.
 
im not really interested in the ARB as much as just being able to romp my jeep without hesitation. 30 spline takes a lot more money then im ready to cash out, having to get a carrier locker for the r & p rather then just replacing the spider gears. but it would be nice to get rid of the vacuum deal and do manual locking hubs but if im doin all that..why not get a d44 and get the weld on truss w/ CA mounts lol? seeing as how those are 30 spline correct?
 
What size tires and type of wheeling?

Alloy USA 27 spline shafts (inner and outer) with a strong u-joint and an aussie will take most forms of beating. Add a good solid diff cover (crane, riddler, solid) and be done with it. Carry your old stocker shafts as spares - with a 10 year warrantee on the shafts, who really cares if you break one once every year or two? As long as you arent breaking balljoints its not really all that hard to fix on the trail.

I went 30 spline with arb because I got a retarded good deal, if I had to pay retail for all of my parts I'd have an ected, 27 spline inners and outers with an alloy-usa X-joint for a ujoint.
 
alright, thanks a lot for your help. i think it'd be most worthwhile for me to go chromo 27 spline shafts and like an aussie. where would you suggest getting my manual hub conversion and would that come with the outter shafts?
 
Do you really feel the need for a hub conversion? Unit bearings are stronger..

If you wanted to really romp on it, I'd do the warn, and its like $850. I haven't been impressed with milemarker products..
 
no i dont need the hub conversion, i just figured if i was doin the chromo shaft upgrade they'd only give me a one piece and i'd have to get rid of the vacuum setup?
 
Thats true, but if your driveshaft is in decent shape at all, the one piece wont matter. Not having the shaft spin doesnt save on MPG or power in any measurable way, only cuts down on vibes if your driveshaft is shot.

The hubs will cost more than new shafts, unit bearings, and a new driveshaft would cost.
 
okay so what your saying is my truck wont respond funny with an ausslie locker, chromo 27 spline shafts, NO manual locking hubs, and NO vacuum disconnect? i just dont see how that works, everything would be connected in the front axle just the t-case would be part time, so wouldnt my front end parts have premature wear and buck around turns on street?

edit: this would mean my axle would be like my buddys grand cherokee where he has to take out the d-shaft to save on gas mileage and so it doesnt chirp around turns
 
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In 2 wheel drive the aussie locker is almost 100% transparent. You will hear a "click click click" going around corners as the locker ratches but it will not affect steering.

In 4 wheel drive you would be locked all the time yes, but unless you are on flat rock turning tight a lot, or drive in the snow alot, it wont matter.

Some people run Aussie lockers and just remove them before the snow each winter, re-installing them for the summer wheeling. It takes about 2 hours to install or remove an Aussie.
 
Mopar It said:
edit: this would mean my axle would be like my buddys grand cherokee where he has to take out the d-shaft to save on gas mileage and so it doesnt chirp around turns
Click to expand...


Your buddy isnt saving on gas mileage. if he is, its less than 1 mpg.

If he's chirping around corners in 2 wheel drive, something is wrong.
 
well he has the 242 thats full-time so he took his d-shaft out. i just dont like the idea of my d30 having 2 solid axle shafts and no manual hubs it almost seems to compacted with no outlet to break unless it's like my carrier or shafts or something you know? does a company make chromo shafts still utilizing the vac disconnect or is that just stupid?(perhaps with a posi-lock actuator?)

also, it wouldnt be necessary to pull the locker out, it doesnt snow here in good ol' nor-cal. just heavy rain but its recessing now so the sun light is coming :) and mud
 
You are of course aware that jeep discontinued the disconnect setup and that almost all xj's and all tj's have solid axles, right? Believe me its the better way to go.

No, there are no ugprades keeping the disconnect axle. You can get 1995 YJ disconnect shafts and run bigger u-joints, but the shafts are no stronger at all.

With his 242, as long as he had it in 2 wheel drive his locker would be transparent.. same as with the 231.
 
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