Loud Aussie in D30 is this usual?

Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions.
Never again will i let someone else wrench on my XJ.
Anywho, I had 4.56's installed and while the shop was setting up the gears they said they'd throw my Aussie in for nothing since they were already in there. I would have said no if my back wasn't so buggered right now, as i like to know what's what on my rig. But i let the shop do it.
I fixed the No-Slip they wrecked in my 8.25" while reinstalling it, which is now quiet again thanks to a full compliment of active spacer paddles.
The Aussie up front on the other hand sounds like metal snapping (LOUD) when going around corners. I'm going to check the tire pressure, which i already did but will check again. The tires are BFG M/T 33x10.50R15 with 700km (Torq Masters mention a 3/8's tire differential factor).
Apparently there is a 200km break in period and i've only driven about 5km so far because if this bang isn't normal i don't want to f-anything up in the diff. I ask this because the Aussie from what I've researched is "supposed" to be a quiet locker similar in noise to a No-Slip. Could it just be the new gears (Yukon) and the Aussie just getting used to each other? Anything to worry about? Thanks again.eace:

my rear aussie clacks pretty good in parking lots and on tight corners... some people like to stare. nothing like metal breaking though.

this is in the rear 44

I put an Aussie in my 8.8. It was pretty loud at first. Much louder than I figured it would be. Now, it is hardly noticable. I get the occasional binding pop around corners sometimes, it is pretty rare though. If your worried about it, pull the cover and give it a look over. Can't hurt anything to look.

I have a LockRight in my D30. I wouldn't call it loud, but it is noticable.

Look and read you instructions that came with the unit CLOSE!! there are some tolerances that who ever installed it should have recorded.

If memory serves, you cannot even get help from the factory with out this info!!!

It is the number 1 problem with installs. These are an EXCELLENT units, but must be in stalled as per the instructions.

Was this a reputable shop??? Why did you go back if they screwed up your stuff in the past???

CW

cwlongshot said:

Look and read you instructions that came with the unit CLOSE!! there are some tolerances that who ever installed it should have recorded.

If memory serves, you cannot even get help from the factory with out this info!!!

It is the number 1 problem with installs. These are an EXCELLENT units, but must be in stalled as per the instructions.

Was this a reputable shop??? Why did you go back if they screwed up your stuff in the past???

CW

Click to expand...

they supposedly were a reputable shop. this was my first and last usage of this particular bastids business. Yup this was all on one visit! I gave them the Aussie inst's and i asked if they used them and they said no, it's just like a lock right and the install went fine. i looked at the inst's and i see they were supposed to fill out the tolerances and did not. I'm pissed to say the least right now!:skull1: i guess i should tear into the D30 but before i do, i have a buddy coming over to help get the front jacked (my back:tears: )so i can do the locker "test" included which is just like the no-slip test. if the test passes i'll still open her up and make sure she took no shrapnel. lol

For what its worth the Aussie in my Dana 30 is very quiet. It made noticable sounds on the first 5 or 6 turns but now I can only hear it ratchet if the engine is off and one wheel is up in the air. Mine installed within specs but towards the loose side of those specs. I love it and works great. Definately pull the carrier and reinstall it measuring the specs. It takes a few hours (especially if you have to pull the ring gear, keep it indexed) but its not a particularly difficult job.

John

I just put an aussie in my d30. I did a bunch of stuff at the same time (set up 4.10s, ball joints, u-joints, new hubs), and it made this horrible racket the first day out. When I realized that the clunking was proportional to the tightness of the turn, I knew it was the aussie and relaxed. After a week of driving, it's much quieter (although I can hear it on turns if I concentrate).

With 4.56 gears, you'll have to pull the diff to make all the measurements that are asked for during installation. However, just measuring the gap between the two sides of the locker should give you a good idea of whether or not all is well.

sounds like i'll be double checking the tolerances on mine. i wouldnt say it's quiet at all.

OK, Pulling it an checking everything is a good idea.

Like others have said its NOT A HARD JOB!! You'll have to pull the carrier, but dont worry it will NOT EFFECT the "setup" of the gears in any way, just do not mix the caps or bolts. Keep everything in the same place when reassembling.

If you have difficulty removing the carrier, and likely you will, they can be mighty tight. Almost no shade tree mach has a case spreader....

SO, loosen the caps but keep the bolts in by a couple threads each, take the correct sized socket for the ring gear bolts. Put it on and rotate the ring gear until it makes hard contact inside the case. Now reach around to the yoke and turn against the socket, the carrier will "pop" right out...

Reassebly is the opposite, just go VERY SLOWLY when tightening the caps to seat the carrier. You wnat to bedo this evenly so as not to twist the carrier. Couple truns on each bolt in a criss cross pattern until tight than torque to spec.

Good Luck,
CW

Thanks guys, appreciate your advice.

cant you inspect w/o removing the carrier? measure the gap, check for broken springs/pins?

jjvande said:

cant you inspect w/o removing the carrier? measure the gap, check for broken springs/pins?

Click to expand...

Without removing the carrier, you can
(1) check springs/pins
(2) check the gap between the two halves

There is one more measurement taken during installation: the distance between the splined part of the locker and the diff pin. I don't know if you can measure this well without taking the locker apart. This measurement should be fine if the measurement (2) above is good.

Let us know how everything turned out...

CW

:woohoo: It's all good! My mechanical Angel was workin' on my rig last night. I went to move the JP into the garage and noticed there was not a peep out the front diff. At first i was a little worried, so i threw her in 4HI and left 4 gravel patches. 4Lo same thing, 4 patches. Did some figure 8's locked and unlocked on gravel, unlocked on pavement and not a peep save for the faint sound of what i can only describe as that stupid fish instrument from band class that i for some reason, always got stuck with! LMAO! However with the 4.56's i do notice the No-Slip makes a little more noise then it used to with the 3.55's. I also figured out that the front metal snapping sound was just the front locker making it's initial pops and bangs but was magnified by the front wheel metal center cap that was not snug.:twak: I took it off and put a rubber band on the cap and put it back on.
Anyway, thanks gentlemen for all your help. Oh, by the way i will be measuring and recording the gaps for warranty and also to change their cheap bulk diff fluid to synth. I'm also going to switch to 75/140 in the rear to shut that No-Slip with the big lip up. Cheers and goodnight...:speepin: