Axle help

I've searched and searched and have found several similar problems discussed. All offer some places to look but I'm hoping to narrow down my problem a bit.

I'm almost done with a complete overhaul of my '88 XJ. The only things I haven't changed or re-built are the tranny and radiator. That being said, I am no mechanic. I've been figuring out how to wrench by using and picking the brains of a couple of friends.

In addition to many things, I just installed a T&T 5.5" longarm along with a Ford 8.8 and a HP Dana-30 out of a '95 XJ. I completely rebuilt the axles including ARB's, gears, Alloy USA 30-splines up front and a Superior Super 88 in the back. I also trussed the front and put on the Currie HD steering with a flip-turn kit as well as a Rusty's track bar & bracket and a Tom Wood's CV shaft with AA SYE.

When I got everything back together, I pulled it into the yard to wash off the brake fluid I just spilled everywhere and I noticed a loud banging when I would turn the wheel either way. I isolated this to the track-bar bracket being too tight and binding and the mount being too loose, as I could see it moving up and down. I adjusted these (I think sufficiently).

Finally, I took the kids for a maiden voyage around the block (about 1/2-mile). I hadn't hooked up the compressor for the lockers yet, nor had I re-welded on the swaybar disconnects yet. I did try to set the allignment as close as possible. While driving, I noticed a high-pitched, cadenced noise that sounded like it was coming from the rear driveshaft (each time it would rotate). This noise only occured when I was turning or veering left. I took the rig back home to make sure I wasn't destroying anything. As I pulled up my extremely sttep driveway, I heard a very loud bang that sounded like I ran into my other car.

I found that I have the 8.8 about 1/2-inch off to one side and the driveshaft is a little crooked. It does not seem to be binding at all, nor could I find any spots that looked like they were hitting (if that's possible after only 1/2-mile).

I put the rig on jackstands and put her in drive. I found noise coming from my t-case (sounds like the oil pump and chain just making noise) that was not the same noise that I had heard before.

I isolated the noise to the front. It may be coming from the driveshaft but I also found that my left wheel appears "out of round" only when I turn to the left. I watched the u-joint rotate and it appears to "roll-over" when moving with the wheel turned to the left.

My question is, What is the likely culprit? The axle shafts and u-joints are brand new. Is it a bad u-joint? Is the steering still loose or not properly adjusted? Is this a possible symptom of me setting up the dif wrong (I checked the backspacing and tooth pattern like 20-times each and at each step of the install)? Could it be a bent tube from me welding on the truss (I let it cool between welds and welded in different locations each time)?

I would greatly appreciate any help you can offer.

kj139 said:

My question is, What is the likely culprit? The axle shafts and u-joints are brand new. Is it a bad u-joint? Is the steering still loose or not properly adjusted? Is this a possible symptom of me setting up the dif wrong (I checked the backspacing and tooth pattern like 20-times each and at each step of the install)? Could it be a bent tube from me welding on the truss (I let it cool between welds and welded in different locations each time)?

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Are the steering stops on the knuckle in place and adusted right? If they are allowing it to turn to sharp the wheel joint will bind. I know it's probably not something that obvious, but I've reassemled front axles and forgot to put the stop back on.

The stops are on (I never removed them) but I will double-check their adjustment. I'll also double check where the "out of round" occurs. It seems to me it was pretty early in the turning cycle, but I could be wrong.

the new angle on the front drive shaft may be binding it.

The thing about the 8.8 on XJ's has been known, but I've never heard of problems with that tiny offset.

Are your U bolts good and torqued?

Did you swap any brake or unit bearings between the two D30,s? The unit bearings and brake rotors are different between a 88 and a 95.Also shouldnt you have centered the rear axle before you welded the pearches.
Wayne

Different on 8.8's. If he would have centered the Driveshaft to pinion, the axle wouldn't line up with the jeep.

No swaps to the brakes or unit bearings on the front. And yes, that was the problem with the 8.8. I centered it but the driveshaft is just a little off (pinion comes out a little to the side). With the new perches, I was all the way to the outside edges of the axle tube where it narrows so I was worried taht going farther would have caused more problems. What do I check for with teh front dirveshaft but how would that cause the left axle to bind (not being sarcastic, I just really don't know).

Thanks!

Also, I ahve the T&T U-bolt elim (with built in 1/2-inch lift). I will check those as well.
Thanks.

Ok, I checked the U-bolts and they are thight. I checked the U-joints (visually) and they appear fine. The front driveshaft doesn;t appear to be at a severe angle but it is pulled out about 1-inch farther than before the lift (of course). It does seem to have a little lop in the rotation. I pulled on the left tire and it pulls away from the vehicle slightly at different points. Almost like the lugs arent tightened enough, but they are. I was also wrong. The "out of round" symptom on the left wheel occurs when turning both right or left, once it hits a certain spot. I checked the steering limit bolts and they are in place; however, there is mucho room (my whole finger) between them and the stop when the wheel is doing the "out of round" thing. I could make them catch before the wheel starts doing this, but I don't know that the steering would steer enough even for the street. After running it for a while while checking all of this, I got a pretty good vibration in the rear with some gear whine.

Anybody have any ideas? I sure need them!

Bad unit bearing ? Those axle nuts need to be tight-very tight- or the bearing can seperate.
Was on a run on the 4 of July where a loose axle nut caused a broken outer stub axle because of a gruve(sp) cut in the axle,wheel fell off,ripped control arms off axle housing,bent shock,tore off brake line, bent track bar,snapped lower control arm--not pretty--
Wayne

I'm thinking that's the case. I will put on another bearing when I get home. I may have forgotten to torgue them down and ruined the bearing. Or, come to think of it, when I drove my parts jeep home (thrashed but wanted the engine), the front end would shift all over the road like the wheel was wobbling. Later, i pulled the front axle from that Jeep and rebuilt it (just no new bearings). HMMM. Thanks for the help. Hopefully I'll have a good response to post tomorrow!

Outstanding!!! I pulled off the left bearing (unit bearing) and sure enough, I can wobble it around about 1/4-inch. I ran the Jeep with it off and held the axle shaft in place and all the bad symptoms are gone. Thanks for the help guys. My sanity is restored!!!

Good deal, glad to hear you got it fixed.

Now you need to post up some pics of it.

Yeah, I can't wait to put it on here. I've changed or rebuilt everything except the transmission. I have a few more things to put on and then I will post pics. After all of this work, I'm really anxious to post it up, but I figure I might as well get it as closed to finished as I can and then post it up. Thanks again. It made my day when I found it was a $120 part rather than the dif or a bad setup on my rear axle!