• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

My recent projct I'm looking to improve. My blueprints included.

redrider2911

redrider2911

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Yakima, WA
I'VE ALREADY POSTED THIS IN THE JEEPS SHOWCASE BUT THOUGHT THAT THIS MIGHT BE A MORE APPROPRIATE SPOT.

Fabricated everything myself. Whishbone 3-link, bottom long arms, drop t-case x member. 8 in lift on 33's

I measured my passenger tire about 33 in. off the ground. Is that pretty good?



withsunflare.jpg



rightside.jpg


Im going to cut the fenders and maybe throw some bushwackers on so i can fit 35's no problem.
rub.jpg



frontflex.jpg


I need longer brake lines then maybe i can get some more flex
frontstretch.jpg


I just like this pictures because of the sign in the background
frontwithsign.jpg



DSC04009.jpg



These are the drawings I drew that I went off of for my over all design. Yellow is the 3-link, white is the frame and axle/dif., the purple is the caster angle, and ofcourse the green are just a few dimensions.

A side view at ride height. (8 in. above stock)
3link.jpg


Shows the axle flowing through the arc brought up about 7.5 in.
arc.jpg


The top view.
top.jpg


The "ears" I had to add to clear the driveline and dif.
arm.jpg


Feel free to comment or ask me any questions. I have more drawings but they are rough on peices of paper. I can draft them out if anybody wants anything... for a price. jk
 
Motorvated said:
Your longarms look VERY thin. What kind of tubing did you use?
Click to expand...

x2.

I used 2" 1/4" wall.

Picture107.jpg


Picture088.jpg


Picture099.jpg


Oh, and that's a tomken crossmember. The uppers are 1"? (can't remember, my buddy bought all the material) with a piece of 2.5" square stock with one side cut out, to mount to the axle. Both arms have welded in threaded inserts from Currie, and the lower arms have 1.25" johnny joints.

So far so good.
 
Last edited:
Those look great. I actually used 1 1/2" round stock or as you would say "1 1/2" wall" ive never heard that terminology before. I'm actually upgrading those to 2" tomorrow before I go up this weekend. I'm going to use a set of 3/4" heim joints an drill and tap the ends of my long arms. My wishbone is made out of 1 1/2" schedule 160 tubing. I built the crossmember out of 2x6x.25 wall rect. tubing.
 
Last edited:
Ah, what that actually means is, 2" diameter, 1/4" wall thickness.(Sorry, i made tubes for aircraft in the military for 4 years, get quick with the terminology sometimes) Super beefy. So it left 1.5" inside diameter for a weld-in threaded insert for the johnny joint. 1 1/2" wall would mean the tubing wall thickness is one and half inches thick, which would be huge!! :) The arm would have to be 3" around, and even then, it would be completely solid :) That would be insanely heavy. Not poking fun, just thinking about that big of a tube for a long arm, makes me laugh.
 
Last edited:
o ok thats what i thought you meant at first but then i thought u were being a smart ass or just being different by saying 2 1/4" wall and accidently put an extra in mark in there. I figured on mine to just go solid so that I don't have a weld and just tap the ends. think it would be stronger rather than having that stress point at the weld. Did you go bushing on one side to help absorb the shock? Does it tend to bind at all?
 
For the lower mount, under the axle, we used a pre-fabricated piece made for that heim joint you see there, and welded it to the 2" tubing, after cutting it out of course. The pre-fabricated piece was nice, it was tapered and everything, we just had to press in the heim joint itself after the piece was welded on. I have more pictures of the build on here somewhere, if you wanna see them, let me know. I'll see if I can find my build up thread.

Found it:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=907401&highlight=long+arm+build
 
Last edited:
redrider2911 said:
o ok thats what i thought you meant at first but then i thought u were being a smart ass or just being different by saying 2 1/4" wall and accidently put an extra in mark in there. I figured on mine to just go solid so that I don't have a weld and just tap the ends. think it would be stronger rather than having that stress point at the weld. Did you go bushing on one side to help absorb the shock? Does it tend to bind at all?
Click to expand...

Damn man, 2" solid stock? That's gonna be crazy heavy. It'll be stout as hell, but I'm pretty sure even the competition buggies don't use 2" solid stuff. I believe the 2" , 1/4" wall stuff is the most widely used. (anybody can correct me if that's an incorrect assumption) And that solid stuff is gonna be pricey, i would think. But hey man, do it how you want. I'm anxious to see how it turns out.

Yeah, went heim joint on the front mount, under the axle. No binding, all the movement takes place at the johnny joint. Only thing with my setup is, the johnny joint rubs on the crossmember pocket a little. Sounds like the whole suspension's loose, but it's really nothing. I've tried centering the johnny joint and re-tighening the jam nut, but it still ends up off to one side, rubbing. Insane flex though, I can unseat the coil by 5-6 inches. Not that it does much for me, since I have lockers front and rear, but I guess maybe it helps remain somewhat stable at very off-camber situations, but mostly the amount of flex I have now is overkill.

D20_1012.jpg
 
New pics, I think the old ones look fine. besides those setups are gonna be rusted and dinged up by now. The best pics are these from right after install. There are more pics on other threads too you know.
 
The lower links are inadequet. Going solid offers only a marginal strength increase with a larger weight increase. Also, 'solid stock' doesn't mean much - there is many types and for all I know you've bought some free machining steel which has lead in it (super weak).

And the upper wishbone scares the hell out of me. Too many bends, crappy material, and everything else.


Oh, and take your front brake lines off and throw them in the garbage. Buy new ones.
 
Yes indeed friends, he has gotten a lot of progress and redone his 3 link and has a bit more flex..
I think he did something with his brakelines possibly as well. I can't remember.
 
DirtyMJ said:
The lower links are inadequet. Going solid offers only a marginal strength increase with a larger weight increase. Also, 'solid stock' doesn't mean much - there is many types and for all I know you've bought some free machining steel which has lead in it (super weak).

And the upper wishbone scares the hell out of me. Too many bends, crappy material, and everything else.


Oh, and take your front brake lines off and throw them in the garbage. Buy new ones.
Click to expand...


WOW!!!!

Is there anything that you would give a positive mark to?????
 
DirtyMJ said:
The lower links are inadequet. Going solid offers only a marginal strength increase with a larger weight increase. Also, 'solid stock' doesn't mean much - there is many types and for all I know you've bought some free machining steel which has lead in it (super weak).

And the upper wishbone scares the hell out of me. Too many bends, crappy material, and everything else.


Oh, and take your front brake lines off and throw them in the garbage. Buy new ones.
Click to expand...


wow ass. do you know what positive means possibly?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

X
Help me my Obi Wan Kenobi's
2 3
Replies
47
Views
13K
75SV1
7
D
Build: "full body" tons and 40s
2 3 4
Replies
65
Views
17K
DrivnXJ
D
M
New to my XJ & wrenching - How to choose parts and what to prioritize?!
2
Replies
28
Views
4K
flyin_ryan
F
M
How to choose parts and what to prioritize?! New to my XJ & wrenching.
Replies
0
Views
761
myXJpeg
M
M
How to choose parts and what to prioritize?! New to my XJ & wrenching.
Replies
7
Views
1K
XJI6191
X
Back
Top