8.8" or non c clip 35?

I have a 88 XJ with 3.07's and 31's so I don't have to much torque to speak of. I wanted some people's opinions on wheter to switch to a ford 8.8" from an explorer with 4.10's, disks, and LSD, or just stick with the D35 and just build it up. Money is tight so I'd like to go the cheapest route possible but I still want to make it home from the trail. I would like a locker in the back but since my jeep is a dd I think an LSD would be better for me, and I could always get an ARB in the front later when the funds are available. Oh and I don't plan on going bigger than 32's or 33's in the future because I like the lower center of gravity. I've been living with the 3.07's for a while now and it isn't too bad so 4.10's wouldn't be a big deal for me with 32's or 33's. Sorry about the long post but I basically want to know how much I'd expect to pay for a d35 gears and locker +d30 gears vs. +or- 350 for the complete 8.8" and gears for the d30 to match. If anyone has got either of these set-ups can you give a ball park of what i'm expecting to pay? Thanks alot.

Eric

I've been running the D35 non- c-clip for some time but I think I'm an exception to the rule in that I've never broken anything.

I would go with the 8.8 for the inherent strength that comes with it. Keep in mind though that it's a spring under axle so you'll need to remove perches and brackets and put perches on the top for XJ use. I believe M.O.R.E. makes a kit for swapping 8.8's and it's got everything you need.

Also, there is a strong chance it already has a limited slip in saving you the expense of getting one right away to replace an open diff.

I know where I live it would be about $350 for gears, install kit and install for the D30.

I run a D35, welded tubes, disc brakes, 4.10's and 33's and it's been fine for the Rubicon and Moab and everywhere in between but I'm gentle on the throttle.

I'm running on borrowed time but so far, so good.

If your looking for CHEAP then find a 2.5 cherokee and swap out the whole front axle. They came with 4.10's....

You can also find a NON abs one and use the 8.25 chrysler rear. It's alot stronger than what you have now.

Thanks for the advice, I have read a couple write ups dealing with an 8.8 (the main one I read was on a SOA YJ) and the guy mentioned the kit from MORE but I went to the website and they didn't have any info on it. I just don't want to throw a bunch of money into the 35 and have it break on me when I can get a better axle to begin with. It also has everything I need like disks and the LSD. How hard would it be to weld on spring perches and shock mounts? I don't know how to wel but i plan on taking a class for it in fall. Is that something I could get away doing myself after a month or two of welding, or should i have it professionally done?

If your looking for CHEAP then find a 2.5 cherokee and swap out the whole front axle. They came with 4.10's....

I was thinking about doing that as well, I went to my local jeep yard and the guy said he doesn't get them to often, but I guess I'll tell him to hold one for me when he gets one.

the Welding part isn't that hard. The measurements are key., definetaly get the 8.8

you don't need that more kit. The spicer part to convert to the U-joint yoke is about $50, and you can get new spring perches from the dealer.
I don't have the part number, but I found it by searching for perches under Eagle's username.
Cost was $8 for a set of 3" tube perches. Mopar performance, quite beefy.
So $58 plus whatever the axle needs and some beer for a friend to weld it up and you can have an 8.8

What do I need to make the e-brake work?

I grabbed a set of 4cyl axles when I lifted and regeared for $100 from the local pull-n-save. A very cheap and easy option as it requires no welding (actually I had to reweld the rear perches since I have an MJ). YOu could just grab the front and an 8.8 from an Exploder. The 8.8 is a bit narrower , so keep that in mind when you look at tire backspacing. Some of early XJs also came with 3.73 gears.

I'm in the middle of doing the same swap, I'm using a 3.73 from a 97 exploder and a front axle out of a desiel cherokee which is also 3.73's.

The part number you need for the 1310 ujoint to the 88 is spicer 2-2-1379. Its $45 from more or you may find it local for $25 or so.

"What do I need to make the e-brake work?"

I haven't got that far yet but I've read on here that you can make your stock ebrake work or go with grand cherokee ones.

The 88 is 1 1/4 narrower overall which is only 5/8 per side. Your not going to notice it so don't sweat it.

"you don't need that more kit"

AMEN!! The more kit is FRIGIN expensive for what you get. I'm building ubolt eliminators/spring perches out of 5X3X1/4 tubing.

The biggest pain so far has been getting the old mounts off. My d35 ones nearly fell off compaired to the 88. Ended up using the plasma cutter and finishing it with the grinder and a sanding disc.

Remember to weld the tubes!!

87manche said:

you don't need that more kit. The spicer part to convert to the U-joint yoke is about $50, and you can get new spring perches from the dealer.
I don't have the part number, but I found it by searching for perches under Eagle's username.
Cost was $8 for a set of 3" tube perches. Mopar performance, quite beefy.
So $58 plus whatever the axle needs and some beer for a friend to weld it up and you can have an 8.8

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X 2

8.8 is a great option in my book.

Don't forget about the 8.25 though. You might stumble across a 29 spline that would work for you. It would be a bolt on deal too. It sounds like this would be a great option as well, and less work.

8.8...in addition to strenght, etc...you get disc brakes. Check this out www.getusedparts.com Good alternative if you don't have a local well stocked pick n pull....Down here all the local yards have stopped letting anyone pull parts because of obscene liability insurance costs.:tears: