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2 of the fasteners for the cross member are studs. other 2 are bolts. you can stack washers, cut some small diameter schedule 40 pipe to length or as mentioned drill some holes in the material of your choice. Watch how much you drop the t-case as the front of the engine rises the same amount, and the shifters lower as you lower the tranny/tcase.
good advice. you can double nut to remove the studs, that's what I had to do. Now my problem is one of the threaded inserts in the frame is stripped due to trying to be cheap and using whatever bolt I had lying around. Stupid me I guess.
Lock two nuts together to remove them and turn the upper one to remove the stud. A stud remover tool also wokd nice. Spray the stud/bolts on the inside oh\f the frame with some PB Blaster(rust penetrant) to help keep them from breaking when you remove them. Use 10.9 grade hardness bolts and good lockwashers to replace them with. A piece of 1 "x 2" tube can be used as the spacer. I found some 3/4" thick 2" wide flat stock I used for mine.
Do NOT stack washers or use the RE "kit" that is just spacers and longer bolts. I landed on my crossmember-- not even that damn hard and it folded like a pretzel and bent the unibody with it because the spacers gave it that leverage on the bolts.
Either get the Rusty's crossmember with the 1" drop (my fix) which I think is the best course of action, or get the solid pieces.