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U Joints needed....

XJsurf

XJsurf

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Diego
I've had my front d/s out for quite sometime, figured that I would replace the u-joints on it. What I don't know is what kind of u-joints do I need. The d/s is off of a 97' XJ 4.0L, AX-15, NP231 w/ hi pinion D30.
 
All the u-joints should be 1310's. Make sure the centering ball is still good. JIM.
 
This would be the first time I've ever pulled u joints off before. What do I look when inspecting the center ball? What is a center ball
 
The centering ball is the assembly between the two u-joints on the upper end of the driveshaft. It's surrounded by a rubber boot that will eventually dry out, split, and leak. When it does that, you'll hear "angry sparrows" <-- (great NAXJA Search term) that indicate you've left it unlubricated too long.

Stu (www.stu-offroad.com) has some great technical writeups on his site. They are TJ-oriented, but often apply to our gear anyway.

Check out - http://stu-offroad.com/axle/ujoint2/ujoint-1.htm
http://stu-offroad.com/axle/driveshaft/driveshaft-1.htm
 
Wouldn't the HP D30 ujoints be either the 297s or the weaker 260s? I thought the 1310s were out back, yes? And if you have the bigger ones in back, they're 1350s. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I've got a 96 with a hp d30, and I've got complete spares and a couple ujoints, and they're all 297s.

I'm retarded :) Read it wrong, thought he was talking about axle shafts. My bad. No clue on the driveshaft, i just have a whole spare. :)
 
adamusmc2002 said:
Wouldn't the HP D30 ujoints be either the 297s or the weaker 260s? I thought the 1310s were out back, yes? And if you have the bigger ones in back, they're 1350s. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I've got a 96 with a hp d30, and I've got complete spares and a couple ujoints, and they're all 297s.

I'm retarded :) Read it wrong, thought he was talking about axle shafts. My bad. No clue on the driveshaft, i just have a whole spare. :)
Click to expand...

All stock XJ driveshaft U-joints are 1310's.
 
Yucca-Man said:
The centering ball is the assembly between the two u-joints on the upper end of the driveshaft. It's surrounded by a rubber boot that will eventually dry out, split, and leak. When it does that, you'll hear "angry sparrows" <-- (great NAXJA Search term) that indicate you've left it unlubricated too long.
Click to expand...

lets say you do get the angry sparrows

is this beyond the point of no return for that particular center ball? i had that and just lubed the bloody hell out of the center section tonight. i drove it into the road and it seems silent but i havnt had time to go anywhere to test
 
If the centering ball fails, and locks up your T/C will suffer the effects..

I've replaced 3 diffrent customers T/C's due to lack of maintenance pertaining to U-joints and cardians.. The front shaft has to be removed to be greesed properly.
 
No the rubber boot that surrounds the centering ball. the shaft i got from the yard didnt have one. I replaced the centering ball and joints. just doesnt have the boot like my 90 stock front shaft does. Question is does that boot around the centering ball hold in the grease? guy at the local dealer said hes been running his for years without. But if it is necessary I definitely want to do it. What do you think?
 
I've rebuilt over 20 driveshafts from Jeeps and have yet to see a rubber boot on the centering ball.. Spicer parts is all I use...
 
I appreciate the input. What have you seen fail the most on the ones youve rebuilt? joints or center ball? Sorry to bombard you with questions, gearing up for Moab next month and its a long way from here.
 
Usually the socket and spring fails first causing the ball to become oval.
I've seen several cardians lock up causing the driveshaft to seperate on the road, this inturn drives the shaft into the road exploding the transfercase..
It's amazing what a driveshaft letting loose at 50 MPH will do to the underside of an XJ.. Trasnfercase destroyed, driveshaft destroyed, exhaused beat shut, linkage destroyed, floorboards bent, transmission pan damaged..
The last job I did wound up costing the customer $800.00 in parts. when I pulled the yoke off the front axle the caps fell off and there was nothing but dust in them.. Sad lesson to learn for that customer. a 50 dollar part could have saved them allot of money..
 
very good info. I guess im right to respect this driveshaft. I looked it up on stu offroads write up site, and what im looking for is the dust cover. it is missing on this shaft. is this crucial? looks almost like steel in the photo on that site, but its rubber. have all the shafts youve done had those? Its got me worried now. I want to remedy that before i put any real miles on it. Do you think i should replace this?
 
gregg75 said:
very good info. I guess im right to respect this driveshaft. I looked it up on stu offroads write up site, and what im looking for is the dust cover. it is missing on this shaft. is this crucial? looks almost like steel in the photo on that site, but its rubber.
Click to expand...
Dust cover?

ds-10.jpg

(Sorry for hijacking, Stu...needed clarification)

THAT is the rubber boot I mentioned. The yoke in Stu's hand fits inside that boot, and that interior assembly is greased. Without the grease, you get angry sparrows prior to failure.

If you're asking about a dust cover that fits along the splines of the driveshaft to protect as it extends and collapses, then no...that's typically not needed.
 
Yes thats it. Thanks for clearing that up for me. i found some on a website out of montana. they are like 12 bucks each. Im gonna look around a little more, but im likely going to have to order a few. Thanks again.
 
So have reading all the replies, my question is how often should the d/s be lubricated and/or rebuilt? What does the angry sparrow sound like?
 
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