Tie Rod Question

I search and really did not fine anything that really fit my question. I had my trac-bar recently replaced because I somehow a serious knocking noise was created at grease point when my steering stabilizer failed after hitting a pot whole on the expressway. After some serious death wobble, I got it home and replaces the Stabilizer, but had no time to fix the trac-bar since I had to be at school the next day. 3 hours from home. If I had time I would have done it myself. So it went to a dealership and they had a new one on in a few hours. Now hears my question, when I had the trac-bar done. They told me that my tie rod was lose and worn. Most likely not due to the recent stabilizer failure, but it needs to be replaced. Do the tie rods wear out? Is it easy to replace? When I look at it, it looks fine. I don't want anymore steering problems. Once was enough.
Thanks in advance
Alex

I assume they are referring to the tie rod ends. Yes, they do go bad and are easily replaced. The only fixed joint is on the drag link, and a new one should be less than $40. I always count the visible threads before I remove the old end and try to put the new one on in the same place.

Invest in a pickle fork and it will make the job go alot easier.
Good Luck!

Thanks,
Alex

Pickle forks suck and usually tear the tie rod boots,use a two jaw gear puller instead.I would get a white paint marker and mark the threads with it so you don't have to get an alignment....

I was going to say, easy to replace EXCEPT FOR THE CONICAL STUDS ON THE JOINT DO NOT WANT TO SEPARATE FROM THE OTHER PART. That can turn into a lengthy and frustrating process.

If the 2 jaw puller doesn't work, heating and striking the sides (of the structure the stud is seized into) with 2 hammers can help. BE CAREFUL with Hammers, you can do damage. I put a larger hammer, actually a sledge on the opposite side that I'm going to strike, then hit with a larger ball peen. The larger hammer pressed against the structure in the opposite direction absorbs the shock. The striking shakes up the structure and can loosen up the stud.

2 ways to test ball joints, there is an expensive tool (which the dealer may have used) or you just do the push pull test. If a ball joint is worn, then there is slop in it, you have to the weight/pressure/tension of the ball joint and push/pull in different directions. A good ball joint won't move with the push/pull, a worn one with slop will move with the push/pull, you should be able to see or feel it.

For Tie-Rod ends, its even simpler, no need to take weight off of the wheels, just have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth (engine off, no power steering necessary) and watch the wheels and all the steering linkage, you should be able to see the slop. All good steering links, the wheels should turn immediately with the steering wheel, slop in the system from any of the parts, one or both of the wheels will lag behind the steering wheel a moment as the slop (technical term: LASH) is taken up during reversing directions.