Replaced wires, cap, rotor, no start! Help!

Hi all,

Just spend an afternoon working on my XJ (1992, limited, i6, 4.0l).

First I flushed my P/S system by connecting the return hose to a bottle and pooring in P/S fluid while cranking (coil wire pulled). Worked great. Replaced the P/S hoses after that, done.

Then I decided I would also replace the spark wires, distributor-cap and rotor. After doing that, starting......no go! I've been pretty careful with replacing the wires (did that first) and then plugged them onto the new cap. Everything one-by-one. There seemed only one way to put in the rotor in (right?). Apart from maybe 180 degree off but I made sure that the terminal labeled 1 was at the same spot as the one that came off. I have put a (very) thin coat of dielectric grease on all components (that's ok right?). I got Mopar parts from the dealer, and they indeed look similar to what came off. Now the Haynes mentions "Also, make sure the carbon brush (center terminal) is correctly installed in the cap, a wide gap between brush and rotor....". I have not seen a brush. Do they mean just the center terminal?

I am really clueless! Any input to what I could possibly have messed up with such a routine job would be great! Help!

Thanks!

Crap, it's been a while but I'm pretty sure they're refering to the carbon "button" (brush) in the center of the inside of the distributor cap. It has to make contact with the top of the rotor for the coil voltage gets to the plug wires.

Just replaced the new cap and rotor with the old ones (just to be sure). Nothing changed. It sounds like it's almost picking it up but it won't go. I will put the charger on the battery (although cranking sounds pretty solid, again just to be on the safe side). My wires are ordered 1 4 2 6 3 5, starting at 1 going counterclockwise on the cap. I wanted to attach a picture with the wiring shown but I appear unable to do so. Will now go ahead and put the old wires back on see if that changes anything.

Any thoughts?

Bradlybob said:

Crap, it's been a while but I'm pretty sure they're refering to the carbon "button" (brush) in the center of the inside of the distributor cap. It has to make contact with the top of the rotor for the coil voltage gets to the plug wires.

Click to expand...

Thanks! Ok, just needed to know if there was some sort of "brush" that I was missing. Button's there, so that should be ok. Since I put the old rotor and cap on, I'm sure they are making contact (worked before). Like I said, will put the old wires back next and see what happens.

Tim

Is it possible the when you put he new wires on the new cap.......that you started one hole ahead or behind. you said that you when one at a time but if ya started out wrong you could be advanced or retarded a hole cylinder.
Causing the spark to fire at the wrong time.


do you have spark at the coil????? at each cylinder wire??




Flash.

Yeah, that's a point. That's why I wanted to post the picture to make sure that's not the case. Just paid for a subscription to naxja but it will probably take them a while to allow me to post attachments (my bad, should have subscribed sooner).

Didn't test spark yet. Will do now. Will just hang a spark plug on the wires to check visual. Is there a better way with a multimeter perhaps?

Will report back in a few minutes.

If you llike you multimeter don't us it!!!!!

It shows you in red! so you should be good to go!



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then you are set!


Flash.

P.S. congrades on the member ship!!:cool:

dutchjeep said:

Hi all,

I have put a (very) thin coat of dielectric grease on all components (that's ok right?).

Click to expand...

Please define all components. You didn't put any inside the distributor other than on the center electrode of the cap did you?

I have put a little bit in the center electrode of the rotor (the copper 'spring' that hits the coil button) and the rotor end (the side that actually rotates). The center one was improvisation, the rotor end was indicated in my Haynes. I also put a little on the terminals sticking out of the cap (where the plug wires attache to). That's it. Like I said I have re-installed my old cap and rotor to bypass any goof-ups I might have made there.

Finally I managed to push a picture in here. This is what my wiring looks like. Pic is taken from passenger side (right is to front, left is to back of the jeep). I marked the plugs with number associated with the cylinders that the wires connect to. This is the old cap and rotor, but with the new wires. Please let me know if the ordering looks ok, or that I did in fact misplaced all of them?

Btw, just checked sparks (not with multimeter), and I do get sparks everywhere. So they are either too weak or I messed up the timing.

Tim

I Don't now for sure about the firing order but.......old_man could be on to some thing here!!!!!


electrical grease is grate for spark plug boots, wire and on top of the cap......but not were electricity is trying to jump!(inside the cap and rotor and your spark plugs.

clean the cap and rotor out and dry it before you put it back on..........it just might fix it!!!!!

Flash.

Yeah, I thought that too. That's why I put back the old cap & rotor. On that one I never used any grease and left them in the same state as when I took them off (when the truck was running fine).

Right now, I think it must be the firing order. Anyone sees any faults in the pic I posted?

Is there any simple way to check timing/firing order?

Thanks again!

Tim

Well my jeep is a renix version and i don't now if that makes any diff but, it's pressently -5 F out there tonight so if nobody give ya a answer to night, in the morning I will go take a look and let ya now.........just to cold ta do it tonight:shiver:

Flash.

I just pulled out my service manual(89) and i thing you need to rotate the wire back(counter clockwise) one position!@!!!!!

Flash.

Another thought, please forgive me if you've done this already, have you checked the computer for codes? (The old 'turn key to on position without starting up three times, and wait for the flashes code check.)

Did the computer say anything?

Flash said:

I just pulled out my service manual(89) and i thing you need to rotate the wire back(counter clockwise) one position!@!!!!!

Flash.

Click to expand...

Wow, so you mean that I should replace all the wires one position counterclockwise? Thus wire on 1 should be on position where 4 is now etc? Just to make sure I got it right! So the FSM actually draws this out? My Haynes is very abstract (useless).

Man, I have no idea how I got this messed up but will try tomorrow morning (first thing). Thanks!

Yes, he means move each wire counter clockwise 1 position.

XJPhoenix said:

Another thought, please forgive me if you've done this already, have you checked the computer for codes? (The old 'turn key to on position without starting up three times, and wait for the flashes code check.)

Did the computer say anything?

Click to expand...

Hadn't thought of that but just checked the codes. Nothing special. Just a 12 and 62 (the 62 I always have, and 12 is just the battery has been unplugged). Theoretically there should be nothing wrong with the truck since it was running before I touched it. But you're right, should check just to make sure theory is ok. Thanks for the input!

Can't test the rotation of the wires right now (night time here, neighbours sleeping), will report back tomorrow on progress. Thanks so far!