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D44 input yoke "strap" replacement

sidriptide

sidriptide

nobody of any consequence
Location
western massachusetts
ok... i have had enough of replacing the straps everytime i drop the rear shaft... i was at the local "bolt-on" performance /offroad shop and i want some moroso u-joint girdles... the first question i couldnt answer was what u-joint i run... stock D44 u-joints... he asked if they were 1330's... i said i think 1310's.... he looked at me like i was talking japanese... am i right or wrong? i havent gotten hardcore enough to worry about upgrading u-joints yet so i just plain dont know.. anyways.. he couldnt find a listing for that size u-joint... but he is proving to be a moron anyways.. what are you guys using besides stock "straps" ? i know some aplications use a u-bolt that has nuts and washers behind the pinion yoke, but i dont want to swap yokes right now..
what do you use and where do i get some?
thanx guys
mike
 
Dunno the u-joint part number off-hand, but someone posted awhile back (and I have blindly repeated) that you can buy the u-bolts and just drill through your stock yoke. I bought a pair of u-joint u-bolts at Pep Boys with the idea of doing a trial install on a rear axle out of a parts vehicle, but I haven't done it yet.
 
ya know... i have a brand new set of those u-bolts that RE sent to me on acident.... i hadnt thought of that simple solution.... i may try that on my parts rig first.....
mike
 
Let us know how it works.
 
You cannot just drill out the yoke.The area behind(where the nut would go) is not machined flat!
 
u-bolt pinion yokes

you can get these on e-bay dirt cheap. I payed $18.00 for two including shipping. they are the 1310 type. 1330's usually go for more. spicer u-bolt kit #2-94-28X is needed for 1310. way stronger and looks cool.
 
correct me if i'm wrong since i havent ventured into the world of gears yet... but dont you start messing with pinion set-up and crush sleeves ans such if you remove the pinion yoke? or is that an assumption on my part? i dont believe that moroso doesnt list girdles for a D44 since alot of muscle cars came with them..
mike
 
D-44's don't have crush sleeves. The quickest, easiest, (and I believe, strongest mod) is to go to a U-bolt style yoke. Go to your local driveline guy, buy a new spicer yoke (~$50), a strap kit, (about ~$4.00), and a new seal (~$3.00).

Pop the old nut off (these can be on tight, use an impact and a 1 1/8" socket) pry out the old seal, pop in the new seal, lube the outside of the new yoke, slide it in, re-torque the nut to ~125 foot pounds, and put your shaft back on.

That's all there is to it.

CRASH
 
RCP Phx said:
You cannot just drill out the yoke.The area behind(where the nut would go) is not machined flat!
Click to expand...

I'll look again but I think it's flat enough. We looked at one that had blown the straps at NACFest and it appeared to be so close to flat as to not make any difference.
 
I tried to do just such a thing on a D30 yoke (which is the same as a D44, BTW) and the problem lies in being able to get the nut tightened... the body of the yoke interferes with the nut such that you can't get a wrench on it to tighten the u-bolt down. I will probably get some material machined away to solve that problem.
 
I don't think it messes up the gears, I changed my pinion seal, and they havn't blown up yet. I scratched a line in the nut and pinion, and torqued it to "about the same"
 
RCP Phx said:
You cannot just drill out the yoke.The area behind(where the nut would go) is not machined flat!
Click to expand...

I looked at the Dana 35 axle I have out in the yard and the surfaces are indeed flat. I took a strap to Pep Boys and bought a pair of u-bolts -- I'm going to try it and see if I encounter the same problem Lawn 'Cher described.
 
yukon makes a pinion yoke upgrade kit for d44s.. i got one... comes with the yoke, seal, ubolts etc.... i think it was 40 or 50 bucks... works just fine.
 
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