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driveline vibration with install of new lift

XJ1998JEEP

NAXJA Forum User
Location
TENNESSEE
I recently installed a 3" suspension lift consisting of rear add-a-leaf,front coils, and shocks. Before I installed it there was no vibration or noise and now after the lift install i have a vibration/droning noise between 30 and 45 mph and above 60 mph. I checked the rearend and found some worn pinion bearings. So I installed all new bearings in the differential and done it all according to specs and procedure. After all that I still have the same problem. any help would be much appreciated. by the way its a 1998 xj.
 
you driveline angles changed when you lifted it. the vibrations you're feeling is the universal joints not following the same eliptical path at either end of the driveshaft. get a slip yoke eliminator and cv driveshaft, adjust your pinion angle and no more vibes.
 
Contact PORC for the SYE...you can get their HD one for well under 200 bucks and its a FANTASTIC unit. For a driveshaft, you can either chop up a front shaft, or spend the dough on a good aftermarket one(which AINT cheap!)
 
It is Performance Off-Road Center I believe...I have neve delt with them but others say they are great. Also my recomendation would be Tom Woods (just google that and drive shaft). I run a TW and love it. Many on here (myself included) know exactly what you are talking about...mainly happens when you get on/off the gas right? Basically your angles are bad. You MAY also be able to do a T-case drop which is like a band-aid on a bullet wound but will get the job done short term.

-b
 
Harvo said:
With that small of a lift, a cheaper way out would be to lower your T-Case an inch.


TCase drops don't fix anything. They just give a false sense of security that since the vibes caused by UJoint binding that everything is hunkydory and does nothing to relieve the stress of the increased angles and downward pressure on the output shaft and bearing of the TCase. Do it right, don't go cheap using BS cheap worthless piece of crud fixes that don't fix anything.
 
GottaBeJeep said:
TCase drops don't fix anything. They just give a false sense of security that since the vibes caused by UJoint binding that everything is hunkydory and does nothing to relieve the stress of the increased angles and downward pressure on the output shaft and bearing of the TCase. Do it right, don't go cheap using BS cheap worthless piece of crud fixes that don't fix anything.

X2....a TC drop is a bandaid...dont even bother with them.
 
Jeffro600 said:
X2....a TC drop is a bandaid...dont even bother with them.


Band-aid. yes!

worthless? not at all.

reasonable short-term, budget minded fix? YES!

if the t/case drop kit reduces the vibrations noticably it is working for it's intended purpose. it is not "hiding" anything.
more than likely it will change the RPM range you feel the vibes at, and reduce them somewhat. i did a 3" AAL lift on my 99 XJ a few years ago and had vibes at 35 - 40 and 70-80 mph, a t/case drop reduced them and the only noticable vibes at that point were around 60 - 70 mph. the lift intially gave 4.5" but setled to 3" after about a year. at which point i had NO VIBES.
t/case drop is a good SHORT-TERM fix that alot of people (myself included) tend to leave in if it has fixed the problem. save the $$ for a good SYE.

and remember. THE SEARCH BUTTON IS YOUR FREIND. this has ben discussed in the past.
 
What causes T-Case wear and damage if not vibrations? If a T-Case drop eliminates vibrations, then what else would damage the T-Case? I had a 3" lift on my XJ for 9 years with my stock Slip Yoke driveshaft and no Vibrations. I have had 5" of lift on there for the last year with a T-Case drop and still no vibrations. I have yet to do any work to the T-Case for any reason.

I agree that SYE's are a good idea with many merits. But if you just plopped down a bunch of money on a lift and shocks, not everyone can take the financial hit to get the SYE and Driveshaft. Heck... the SYE and driveshaft probably cost more than the 3" lift.

Sure... put it on the "to do" list or go ahead and do it if you can pony up the dough... but if the T-Case drop gets rid of the vibrations, then the vibrations are gone.
 
"I personally do not recommend any of the cheap alternative fixes for driveline vibes, such as TCase drops, shims without SYE, YJ yokes, etc. Those items are bandaides to remove vibes, but they do not address the real issue at hand. Vibes are a physical indication of UJoint binding. UJoints are cheap to fix. Vibes are often mentioned in the forums as a problem because they are annoying. The real problem is the stress put on the output shaft and bearing of the TCase when you lift and increase the operating angles of the driveline. The more you lift, the greater the operating angles, the greater the stress. Think of it this way, if you take a wood dowel rod, place it over your leg, and roll it back and forth over your leg, this is similar to the output shaft of the TCase at stock height. Your leg is the output bearing. Now, take that dowel rod, leave the left side at the same pressure while pushing down with the right hand to cause a bow in the rod, and roll it back and forth over your leg. The left side symbolizes the shaft in a fixed position inside the TCase, while the right side is pulled downward by the increased operating angles of the driveline. The greater the angle, the more downward pressure, the sooner the rod (shaft) will snap at your leg (output bearing). The purpose of a SYE/CV shaft is to shorten the output shaft and distribute the forces of the rotating shaft through two UJoints instead of one. If you take the dowel rod again, but shorten the right side by 2/3, it is much more difficult to bend it over your knee when applying the same pressure that snapped the longer rod. You use shims at the axle end to remove the stress on the axle end UJoint, and the remaining stress is distributed among the two joints at the TCase end. My father once got onto me as a small child when I was flipping the switch to the power locks constantly. He told me that items are designed with a certain lifespan. If the lock switch was designed to last for 1,000 switches before needing replaced, and I flipped the switch 100 times in 2 minutes, I decreased the expected life by 10%. Ever since I try to think of everything this way. This isn't an exact science, but I think the point can be made here. Just making up some numbers for example, if the stock driveline was setup to last 250,000 miles before the TCase needs an overhaul, and you lift 2" and leave the stock setup and drive 25,000 miles like this, you decreased the life of your TCase 50,000 miles. Like those cigarrette commercials, with every cigarrette, you decrease your life by 7-10 minutes. It's not a perfect equation, but it should make sense. Vibes are not the culprit, they are a reminder that something bigger is going on in your driveline. Eliminating vibes is a good thing, but don't do it just for the vibes.
2-3" of lift isn't going to kill your TCase overnight, especially when compared to 6" on a stock driveline, but if you get rid of the vibes using those cheap alternatives, just keep in mind your TCase may not last as long as stock. The brand of lift isn't going to matter, the year of your XJ doesn't matter, the amount of vibes doesn't matter, if you lift it without a SYE/CV shaft, life is shortened. It amazes me that the XJ was designed with a SYE/CV shaft in the front of the TCase, but was not done to the rear. It doesn't make sense that is wasn't done right straight from the factory, but this can be corrected."

That was a cut and paste from one of my many other posts across other forums, but in short, I don't recommend a TCase drop or cheap fixes, so if you decide to go that route, keep it for a short period of time. It doesn't matter if you have an 84 XJ or a 2001, vibes or no vibes, the more you lift it, the more the stress on the TCase. Oh, one more thing, TCase drops are a false sense of security and actually add more stress to the motor mounts.
 
I did the TCase drop and it worked just fine. I shimmed axle, dropped the TCase and measured everthing so the angles were less than a degree different and there were NO vibrations. It works just fine. You have to measure carefully get it right. Not close, not a degree off but under a degree off is what is needed to get it right. I ran like this for several months......

I did not like loosing 1-3/8 in ground cleareance from the drop and was not thrilled with the idea of loosing all my trans fluid if i lost a drive shaft so I bought the PORC SYE and installed a front XJ drive shaft (works with AW4 and Dana 44 or Chrysler 8.25 rears).

Great kit, easy to install, gave me back some ground clearance and I only have to carry one driveshaft as a spare for both. Be warned to do it right you must measure and shim the axle accurately and get it under a degree at the pinion to eliminate all vibrations.

Both methods work but he SYE stronger, uses no ground clearence and adds reliability but in either case you need to accurately measure or you wont get rid of the vibrations.

Did I mention you need to measure the angles to get it right and eliminate the vibrations?
 
Thanks For All Tour Help Guys. At This Moment I Am Strapped For Cash As With The Lift I Also Purchased A Wheel/tire Combo, And Front Rear Bumpers. So Unfortunately I'm Going To Have To Go With The T-case Drop For Right Now. But The Next Thing I Do Will Be The Sye/cv Setup.
 
Someone mentioned using the front driveshaft in the rear. I have a '99 which will soon have a 4 1/2 lift on it. As of now its in my living room not lifting much besides my wifes voice to get it out (she keeps stubbing her toe on my rear leaf packs ;-) but the question is, is there a limit to the amount of lift before this wont work? I am on a tight budget and am buying one part at a time so I can install everything at once. I am going to do it right and install a SYE and toss the T-case drop but if I can get a front driveshaft and save some more money for now that would make my day (also would make my bank acct. happy). What years would work on my rig? What could I expect to pay? I do have the 8.25. Ive heard that my lift will actually put it up 5.5" at first untill it settles so that could be important.
 
OK, so I just lifted my '92 a little over 3" in the rear with Dakota leaves from a junkyard. I have slight vibes under hard acceleration and at certain speeds. So far I have done nothing but add the lift. I have 217k miles now. In your guys always humble OPINION, how long before my transfer case is toast.
 
you may go through some u-joints quicker, but i'd guess that setup wouldn't toast your t-case.... unless the vibes are fearsome.
 
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