Questions on C-Rok brace install

Okay just got it in and plan to install the plates this weekend. I just have a few questions:

1. It mentiones you have to drill out the 3 steering box holes to be flush with the inner spacers inside the frame (5/8"), but it says to use a dremel or die grinder, which to me means to just trim around the edges till its flush. This sounds like it would be really hard to get the holes perfectly circular and would create some play. Why can you not (or why is it not mentioned) just use a 5/8" drill bit and drill the holes out?

2. Is there an adjustment for the steering wheel on the steering shaft? I remeber seeing this somewhere and I hear the wheel can get a little off center when installing these braces.

3. In the instructions it says to use a torque wrench, which makes sense, but for some reason it does not give what the bolts should be torqued to. Should I just get them as tight as I can or do I need to figure out what the bolts are torqued to?

4. It says to remove the front bumper, is this needed? I no longer \have end caps and I have cut fenders.

Anyone got any tips on the install that I might need to know or that will help me out? I am just using hand tools on this and I am gonna start PB'ing the bolts tommorow.

The install isnt bad at all. Ill answer your questions in the order you asked them.
1. Its really easy to use a die grinder or dremel. The hole through the frame is big enough, just that the sheet metal overlaps the hole a bit. That said, I guess you could use a drill bit, but my holes were perfectly centered either. I figured a bit might just bind and cause a head ache. So I dremeled away.

2. No adjustment on the steering shaft... In fact there is no reason to mess with the shaft really. Everything stays connected. And Im not sure why you heard it will cause the wheel to be off...? The c-rok inner plate spaces out the box the same way as the stock alum. one does. Shouldnt be a prob.. If it is...the steering wheel is adjusted with the adjusting sleeve by the pitman arm.

3. I made mine tight... and used loc-tite. I guess you could use factory torque specs if you can find them. I just made everything as tight as I felt necessary.

4. While you might not have to remove the entire bumper, the driver's side bumper bracket has to come loose... the three bumper bracket bolts go through the c-rok plate. So...you could leave it there, but its just as easy to take out the 4 bolts holding the bumper up, and then work with it from there....

Also, you will have to remove/loosen some of the fender support bolts. And be prepared to fight with that heavy steering box. I replaced my box at the same time I did my brace and I invented new curse words trying to get teh bolts started.

Good luck!

Justin

Thanks Justin

I actually just got a new dremel and a bunch of accessories so I guess I'll break it in on this little project.

No prob... It doesnt take much to make the holes bigger. Its hard to explain but when you start to dig in you'll see what you gotta do. It might not be the worst idea to have someone give you a hand either. Like I said, the hardest part was holding/manuvering the box while trying to start a bolt. What a PITA. And remember not to full tighten everything until everything is started, and I think they give you a sequence.

Do you have a front hitch as a tow point by any chance???

Justin

ghettocruiser said:

No prob... It doesnt take much to make the holes bigger. Its hard to explain but when you start to dig in you'll see what you gotta do. It might not be the worst idea to have someone give you a hand either. Like I said, the hardest part was holding/manuvering the box while trying to start a bolt. What a PITA. And remember not to full tighten everything until everything is started, and I think they give you a sequence.

Do you have a front hitch as a tow point by any chance???

Justin

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No front hitch, I still have my stock bumper. The instructions say to use a ratchet strap t ohold the steering box in place, but I have no idea how all thats gonna work with me under it trying to get to both sides of the unibody all while my big self is under the Jeep, lol. I think I may go buy another set of bigger jack stands.

Yeah I couldnt really make use of the straps... Then again I was replacing the whole box. I had my dad come out and listen to me curse while he supported the box from above. I think they just want you to be careful not to drop it on your head... It doesnt just fall right out tho if I remember correctly. Kind of gets wedged alittle... Just be careful. Its heavy and akward.

J.

ZachMan said:

1. It mentiones you have to drill out the 3 steering box holes to be flush with the inner spacers inside the frame (5/8"), but it says to use a dremel or die grinder, which to me means to just trim around the edges till its flush. This sounds like it would be really hard to get the holes perfectly circular and would create some play. Why can you not (or why is it not mentioned) just use a 5/8" drill bit and drill the holes out?

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Dremel is good enough for the job. As mentioned, all you gotta do is remove some metal that overlaps the hole. Inside there is a C channel that is a tight enough fit for the sleeve that you don't have to worry about not getting the holes perfectly circular.

2. Is there an adjustment for the steering wheel on the steering shaft? I remeber seeing this somewhere and I hear the wheel can get a little off center when installing these braces.

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Yeah, in 2 jeeps I put it on the steering wheel went a bit crooked. It has to do with the spacer that goes between the box and the frame not being exactly same sized as the one you're removing (most of the time at least). Anyways, it's easy to adjust the steering wheel back to where it's supposed to point: there is an adjustment sleeve on the draglink that you can use to do so (search on OEM forum, adjustment/centering of the steering wheel has been covered before).

3. In the instructions it says to use a torque wrench, which makes sense, but for some reason it does not give what the bolts should be torqued to. Should I just get them as tight as I can or do I need to figure out what the bolts are torqued to?

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IIRC it's 70 ft lbs, but search on OEM and double check.

4. It says to remove the front bumper, is this needed? I no longer \have end caps and I have cut fenders.

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Yeah you have to do that as the outer plate fits between the bumper mount and the frame rail.

Anyone got any tips on the install that I might need to know or that will help me out? I am just using hand tools on this and I am gonna start PB'ing the bolts tommorow.

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Take a piece of wood and hang the steering box from the top (I layed a piece of 2x4 across the engine bay and hung the steering box on a strap and that way I could do the install by myself). Also after you isntall the box back on, retorque the bolts after a day or two of driving.

ZachMan said:

No front hitch, I still have my stock bumper. The instructions say to use a ratchet strap t ohold the steering box in place, but I have no idea how all thats gonna work with me under it trying to get to both sides of the unibody all while my big self is under the Jeep, lol. I think I may go buy another set of bigger jack stands.

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Why under the jeep? You can do the whole install from the outside and the top.

Kejtar said:

Why under the jeep? You can do the whole install from the outside and the top.

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Thats what I was thinking I am sitting at 6" of lift and even with my 33" tire mounted I can get my big hands to all the outside bolts, but I didn't know about the inner side where the steering box is. I just figured I'd have to crawl up under it to get to everything. I never thought about (duh) opening the hood to get to the steering box, which I am reading right now I just have to remove the air intake box?

So do I even have to put the Jeep on jack stands?

ZachMan said:

Thats what I was thinking I am sitting at 6" of lift and even with my 33" tire mounted I can get my big hands to all the outside bolts, but I didn't know about the inner side where the steering box is. I just figured I'd have to crawl up under it to get to everything. I never thought about (duh) opening the hood to get to the steering box, which I am reading right now I just have to remove the air intake box?

So do I even have to put the Jeep on jack stands?

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You can reach it all from the top without removing the intake box. I just put a crok plate onto my dad's jeep: at this point up front it's stock sagged suspension with the steering box still installed inside. You hang the steering box from the top so that you don't have to hold it in the air all the time and you slide out the old spacer, put new spacer, install the outer plate and bolt everything up. I think it took me all of 30~45 minutes including the time to open up the holes.

Thanks for the help I feel like I got a much better grasp on whats involved.

BTW, what attachment did you use on the Dremel? I got so many different things I am not sure what to use? Should I just try one of the all metal little drill looking things? I mostly have sanding and grinding discs for cleaning up my fenders.

ZachMan said:

Thanks for the help I feel like I got a much better grasp on whats involved.

BTW, what attachment did you use on the Dremel? I got so many different things I am not sure what to use? Should I just try one of the all metal little drill looking things? I mostly have sanding and grinding discs for cleaning up my fenders.

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I used one of the little rock looking things on a stick (I used one for metal: it was darker and "rougher" in texture).

Kejtar said:

I used one of the little rock looking things on a stick (I used one for metal: it was darker and "rougher" in texture).

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Ahh okay gotcha, lol yeah there is so many attachments for them its hard to know sometimes.

Kejtar said:

You hang the steering box from the top so that you don't have to hold it in the air all the time and you slide out the old spacer, put new spacer, install the outer plate and bolt everything up. I think it took me all of 30~45 minutes including the time to open up the holes.

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X2
The Install is much easier than it sounds. I ended up having one frame hole that required a BFH to get the sleeve through. The C-rok plates line up near perfectly. Just don't forget to go back and re-torque the steering bolts at a later date as per the instructions.