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OK.. I have an 88 lifted about 5" and my trac bar is stock. It pulls to the left and the front axle is shifted couple inches to the drivers side. I have a welder, cutting torch and an extra stock trac bar with mount. how can i make my stock one centered under my jeep in 7 hr or less?
bend the top and bottom of the stock track bar so it has more of a Z or S shape how ever you want to describe it then cut the stock in the middle and add a section of pipe or bar stock to it and if you want to be fancy, add a long 1" bolt and nut into the mix and you will have an adjustable one to boot. here is an example, mine
took me 2 hours to do. the bolt and nut are 1"16thread grade 8 the bolt is 6"long so i have about 3" of adjustment either way. if you do the adjuster set up becareful not to over heat the nut and have it shrink on you, if you do you will need to tap it back out and the tap is around $60.
good luck.
you need to add about 1" cut it in the middle slip into a piece of .120 wall dom or hrew weld both ends and dont forget to drill and plug weld both ends of the tubing also.
you need to add about 1" cut it in the middle slip into a piece of .120 wall dom or hrew weld both ends and dont forget to drill and plug weld both ends of the tubing also.
2X with one caveate:
After doing this to get you through your trail ride you'll have the measurements.
Build/buy a new HD one with real tube, real ends, and a real frame mount.
quick temporary solutions are just that......ditch the stupid non replacable tre for a double shear setup and either do a good job of making your stock one adjustable or build a whole new one. IF you have the skills to do so correctly!!!!!!!!!
anyone have a picture or anything for a double shear setup without a flex joint...using a bushing instead? i know the disadvantages to this setup i am just curious that's all
Try this. My friend need the same thing done on his XJ, so we snagged another track bar to weld in a section. To measure how much to weld in, we put the vehicle up on jack stands (from the unibody, not the axle) and disconnected the track bar on the lower side. The axle shifted to the normal position, and we measured from the eye hole of the trackbar to the hole in the bracket. We then added 1/8th of an inch to compensate for ride weight and length lost in cutting. See the attatched photo of how we welded in the section. Grind down the edges to almost a cone shape, then you get a really deep, strong weld.
assgas:
