Badcop
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Woods Cross, Utah
How to properly trim your fenders:
Whether it is for TJ flares or cut outs.
I’m on my own mission of write-ups to try and get some of the repeat questions exiled, I know, I know try searching is the common response; well I hate to see this board go down the line of JU.
Start with the proper tools:
Air Nibbler
Sawzall (with a fresh blade)
3-5lb hammer
Vise Grips
Drill with a 5/16th drill bit
Pop rivets
Rivet gun
Pry-bar
10mm socket and wrench
Start by removing the front bumperettes. After there off, you will need to start with a relief cut form the sawzall to let the nibbler start. I prefer the area under the turn signal and front of the stock flare. This is a good area to do this with the sawzall because the area is well supported and your chance of bending sheet metal is low.
After the front is opened for the nibbler its only a matter of following the old flare around with the nibbler, when you get to the door side it will be all but free.
You will need to undo the dead top center nut to release the cross rod that supports the fender and flare. The inner skirt is attached with crappy little plastic plugs that just need some pulling on to release. Get the drill listed above and drill out the rivet that holds the cross rod on to the tub. The area nearest the door on the tub, is a pet peeve for me, I like to use the hammer and flatten it down, why go through all this trouble to have ass it in the end.
To the rear:
This is a little more time consuming then the front, but if done right will come out looking good.
Start by using the 10mm socket and break the fender nuts off. I say break because no matter how hard you try they will all break. Think of this as the body’s version of the rear shock bolts!!
After the flare is off you need to get the sawzall and cut reliefs all along the pinch seam. If you don’t and just cut like the front you will weaken the unibody. These things have enough gimps; we don’t need to help along with them.
After all the cuts have been made, start hammering them inward towards the tub.
After you have all of them bent in, (this is a personal choice) its nice to use either some self tapping screws or rivets to hold all those little pieces up and out of the way. Since were using bushwhackers, we won’t need to since the flare itself will hold them up and out of the way.
I won’t go through putting the flares on, just follow the instructions and you’ll be all right.
There are don’ts as you do this; Ill let this picture speak for itself.
If all goes well and is done right, you should have a nice pile of crap in your yard and about 10lbs lighter than when you started.
Whether it is for TJ flares or cut outs.
I’m on my own mission of write-ups to try and get some of the repeat questions exiled, I know, I know try searching is the common response; well I hate to see this board go down the line of JU.
Start with the proper tools:
Air Nibbler
Sawzall (with a fresh blade)
3-5lb hammer
Vise Grips
Drill with a 5/16th drill bit
Pop rivets
Rivet gun
Pry-bar
10mm socket and wrench
Start by removing the front bumperettes. After there off, you will need to start with a relief cut form the sawzall to let the nibbler start. I prefer the area under the turn signal and front of the stock flare. This is a good area to do this with the sawzall because the area is well supported and your chance of bending sheet metal is low.
After the front is opened for the nibbler its only a matter of following the old flare around with the nibbler, when you get to the door side it will be all but free.
You will need to undo the dead top center nut to release the cross rod that supports the fender and flare. The inner skirt is attached with crappy little plastic plugs that just need some pulling on to release. Get the drill listed above and drill out the rivet that holds the cross rod on to the tub. The area nearest the door on the tub, is a pet peeve for me, I like to use the hammer and flatten it down, why go through all this trouble to have ass it in the end.
To the rear:
This is a little more time consuming then the front, but if done right will come out looking good.
Start by using the 10mm socket and break the fender nuts off. I say break because no matter how hard you try they will all break. Think of this as the body’s version of the rear shock bolts!!
After the flare is off you need to get the sawzall and cut reliefs all along the pinch seam. If you don’t and just cut like the front you will weaken the unibody. These things have enough gimps; we don’t need to help along with them.
After all the cuts have been made, start hammering them inward towards the tub.
After you have all of them bent in, (this is a personal choice) its nice to use either some self tapping screws or rivets to hold all those little pieces up and out of the way. Since were using bushwhackers, we won’t need to since the flare itself will hold them up and out of the way.
I won’t go through putting the flares on, just follow the instructions and you’ll be all right.
There are don’ts as you do this; Ill let this picture speak for itself.
If all goes well and is done right, you should have a nice pile of crap in your yard and about 10lbs lighter than when you started.
