Just did the math and I've got 1000+watts of lights alone without the factory headlights factored in and at idle when my AC is on the battery guage redlines on the low end. I'm getting an Optima so I thought I'd upgrade the alternator as well so about how strong of an alternator will I need? I plan on running a winch in the near future as well.
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Time for a new alternator, need sugestions
- Thread starter Zoro
- Start date
esrasmu2001
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Clarksville, Tennessee
Doing a little moonlight deer hunting lately?
esrasmu2001
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Clarksville, Tennessee
I would definatly upgrade the alternator along with the Optima. If you are planning a winch in the future, get the yellow top Optima. Winching with a red top will void the warranty.
As far as which Alt to get, I really don't know yet. I haven't gotten that far in my build.
As far as which Alt to get, I really don't know yet. I haven't gotten that far in my build.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Check my link. I've been using Rod's gear for a number of years, and I have yet to have any complaints...
www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/sjg.html, I think - you're after San Jose Generator. Just remember to deal with Rod directly - I'm advertising for him, not handling his business...
5-90
www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/sjg.html, I think - you're after San Jose Generator. Just remember to deal with Rod directly - I'm advertising for him, not handling his business...
5-90
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
1,000 watts divided by 14 VDC (nominal) equals ~72 amps - add 20-30A for engine support loads, and another 20-30 for stereo loads (figure that you might have to "surge" a full load all at once) should be 130A. Add at least a 15% "fudge factor" for conductor resistances, old loads, and such, and you're hitting a minimum of ~150A. While I don't think the "fudge" factor should be necessary for a well-maintained system, at least a 5% "fudge" over full load should be considered a standard.
From San Jose Generator
140A Delco CS-120 $140 + shipping
130A ND (1991-up) $125 + shipping
The Delco CS-120 will work for 1987-1990XJ, the NipponDenso for 1991-up. I'm not sure what you'll need for 1984-1986XJ/MJ - either a Delco SI or Delco CS-12. Call Rod for Delco SI prices - and I've put an ID guide up on the site as well.
Why am I pushing Rod's goodies? Simple - 1) I think everyone else is overpriced. 2) When you deal with Rod, you're dealing with the guy that's doing your work. 3) If we can get his business going with regular stuff, then we can see even mroe "special order" goodies from him...
Make sense?
5-90
From San Jose Generator
140A Delco CS-120 $140 + shipping
130A ND (1991-up) $125 + shipping
The Delco CS-120 will work for 1987-1990XJ, the NipponDenso for 1991-up. I'm not sure what you'll need for 1984-1986XJ/MJ - either a Delco SI or Delco CS-12. Call Rod for Delco SI prices - and I've put an ID guide up on the site as well.
Why am I pushing Rod's goodies? Simple - 1) I think everyone else is overpriced. 2) When you deal with Rod, you're dealing with the guy that's doing your work. 3) If we can get his business going with regular stuff, then we can see even mroe "special order" goodies from him...
Make sense?
5-90
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Yep - it's a Delco CS-12, then. Nothing to figure there.
Give Rod a call - and let me know if you order from him. Like I said, I'm trying to expand our options for high-output alternators, and the more we order from Rod, the more leverage I can bring to bear for future options. All the moreso if you bring it up when you talk to him (which he can't do - YET - but it's something to aspire to...)
5-90
Give Rod a call - and let me know if you order from him. Like I said, I'm trying to expand our options for high-output alternators, and the more we order from Rod, the more leverage I can bring to bear for future options. All the moreso if you bring it up when you talk to him (which he can't do - YET - but it's something to aspire to...)
5-90
2xtreme
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kayak Pt, WA
When I did this, I put the largest CS-120 I could build locally. I think it was 160 or 180 amps total output. Plus I put a smaller pulley on it to increase the output under low RPM (where I need it with a winch). I think it will put out close to 85 at idle.
If I was to start over, I would go with the larger case alt. It will fit with some slight clearancing of the stock brackets. You can build one cheaper, it will cool better, and you can build it to handle more output.
Just my .02. I do like useing local alt shops because I know they are useing my alt, and it has been far more reliable for me to do this in the past.
Michael
If I was to start over, I would go with the larger case alt. It will fit with some slight clearancing of the stock brackets. You can build one cheaper, it will cool better, and you can build it to handle more output.
Just my .02. I do like useing local alt shops because I know they are useing my alt, and it has been far more reliable for me to do this in the past.
Michael
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
Dingo509
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Yakima, WA
2xtreme said:
You have any pictures of your setup? I have the 140 amp model right now but i am in the process of building an onboard welder and may either install a larger alternator or a second alternator, so im curious as to how you mounted the cs-120.
Dingo
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
If you've got a 1987-1990 w/4.0, you've got the CS-120 in place, and don't ned to visualise anything.
However, I recall seeing a writeup where someone fed a welder with a second alternator in the location offered by the AC Compressor, and that might interest you. You'd have to fab up a jig to hold the alternator by the two long bolts under the Sanded SD505 - but if you're welding already, it's possible.
You'll also want some sort of "idle bump" to keep the output steady - either with a vernier control cable or some electronic module. I'd figure you'll want to hold idle around 1800-2500RPM or so to keep things going - less than that, you might stall the engine. More than that, you'll probably overdo the output.
Given a choice, I'd sooner do a second alternator for welding or auxiliary power output, and let the primary alternator stick to the main supply requirement.
There's no reason you couldn't drive the whole thing off of the OEMR belt - on one about an inch shorter. Take a string to figure the length, and make sure your second alternator features a 6-rib pully just like the ones you've got under the hood already. If your parts guys are up to scratch, they'll know what to do with your string...
5-90
However, I recall seeing a writeup where someone fed a welder with a second alternator in the location offered by the AC Compressor, and that might interest you. You'd have to fab up a jig to hold the alternator by the two long bolts under the Sanded SD505 - but if you're welding already, it's possible.
You'll also want some sort of "idle bump" to keep the output steady - either with a vernier control cable or some electronic module. I'd figure you'll want to hold idle around 1800-2500RPM or so to keep things going - less than that, you might stall the engine. More than that, you'll probably overdo the output.
Given a choice, I'd sooner do a second alternator for welding or auxiliary power output, and let the primary alternator stick to the main supply requirement.
There's no reason you couldn't drive the whole thing off of the OEMR belt - on one about an inch shorter. Take a string to figure the length, and make sure your second alternator features a 6-rib pully just like the ones you've got under the hood already. If your parts guys are up to scratch, they'll know what to do with your string...
5-90
