Gasket set question

Just got a gasket set with EVERYTHING and my question is does anybody have a link that shows where to start at or what order to do them all in?
Happy Thanksgiving

Have you already got your engine torn to bits, or are you just getting started? If it's an "upper half" set (from the head gasket upwards,) I'd get the engine torn down to the short block and reassemble. If it's the lower half set ("Conversion set,") you might have a little more work to do...

5-90

It's all the gaskets, lower and upper half, haven't got the motor torn down yet...This IS something that can be accomplished in a single weekend, right? I've just been getting sick of oil leaks so I'm going to switch over to synthetics.

Ah - oil leaks. Perhaps you could tell us where you're leaking (based upon a CLEAN engine!) and we'll save you some work! It's a cinch you don't need to go so far down to a head gasket or a manifold gasket - so tell us what you NEED to do (or your symptoms...) and we'll try to save you some work!

Oh - engine would help as well. I'm going to go out on a limb and assume it's an I6, but I4's and V6's are a little different when addressing leaks as well...

5-90

Sorry about that 5-90, kinda used to having an info...

It's a 90XJ W/4.0 with 188k, oil is leaking arround the bottom of the oil pan and out of the valve cover not anything major just slow leaks, I just want to replace everything.

Oh. I'd change the oil sump gasket and the valve cover gasket. Make sure to get some LocTite 518 Gasket Eliminator (best) or RTV Black (OK,) and get a batch of SBChevvy valve cover studs - for cast covers for up top, and for stamped covers for down below. The studs are helpful for locating the gasket and cover while you're tacking things up - and I find they help. Both the valve cover bolts and oil sump rail bolts are threaded 1/4"-20, so SBChevvy studs will work nicely.

If you haven't gotten the later one-piece oil sump gasket, do so. The older 4-part gasket is a pain to deal with if you don't have practise (although the studs will help.) Daub a little extra sealant in the corners - you'll see where I'm talking about.

Have a low-value torque wrench, and USE IT! As I recall, oil sump and valve cover bolts are torqued to 8 pound-feet - about 64 pound-inches - and overtightening these WILL crush the gasket and you'll end up doing the job again! Don't ask how I know...

Another little tip - once you've got everything down to "contact," go for a sandwich and a cuppa - about 15-20 minutes' break. THEN, come back and torque everything together once you've gotten a "skin" on the sealant and the sealant won't squidge out anymore. Take your time here, you don't need to do this again.

Any questions? You'll find that the rest of the gaskets seal air, or water, or both - BUT NOT OIL - and you won't need to change them straight away.

5-90

I had fantastic quanties of oil coming out of my valve cover gasket and oil all around the oil pan (mostly on the passenger side) when I bought mine. Turned out the valve cover gasket was dried out and not glued down. The vacuum lines coming off the valve cover were rotted and blocked too. Fixing these items cut 70% of the leaks. The remaining leaks came from dried out o-rings inside the oil filter boss that bolts to the block. Replacing the O-Rings (get them at Chrysler) solved the last of my leaks. The O-Ring leaks are very very common.

John
94 4.0 HO AW4
66 Rambler 258 Ported 4.0 Head & Triple DCOE 45's ~300 hp (the XJ wants it bad)