View Full Version : full float disassembly dana 60??????
rockwerks
November 14th, 2005, 13:37
I have not worked on oen of these yet..........Im thinking there is a c-clip on the inside of the pimpkin...or am I missing something
OT
November 14th, 2005, 13:40
Remove the ends on each side and pull out the shafts.
rockwerks
November 14th, 2005, 13:54
Remove the ends on each side and pull out the shafts.
removed 4 bolts on the end cap and there is the drive flange and the axle end...the end of the double splined axle. the4 drive flange holds the end cap on.
Kittrell
November 14th, 2005, 13:59
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v690/Jeep1991/229463498LDhpGw_ph.jpg
It should look like that. Remove those 8 nuts and the shaft should slide right out.
rockwerks
November 14th, 2005, 14:00
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v690/Jeep1991/229463498LDhpGw_ph.jpg
It should look like that. Remove those 8 nuts and the shaft should slide right out.
not even close..........it has only 4 small bolts and 5 x 5.5 bolt circle. custom made...I guess Im gonna have to tear into it LOL
OT
November 14th, 2005, 14:09
pics?
Kittrell
November 14th, 2005, 14:10
not even close..........it has only 4 small bolts and 5 x 5.5 bolt circle. custom made...I guess Im gonna have to tear into it LOL
Do you have one of the units with those billet aluminum hubs???
ECKSJAY
November 14th, 2005, 14:11
pics?
Don't be fatuous.
rockwerks
November 14th, 2005, 15:12
steel internal drive flange.....tapped it in and it has a coiled spring clip to retain the drive flange.........the reason I was working on it is because the rotors are very hard to turn......I was able to remove the drove flange and it spins freely.....so the wheel bearings are fine...put the drive flange in and low and behold it binds!....the drive flanges are milled incorrectly......nice huh!
OT
November 14th, 2005, 15:49
steel internal drive flange.....tapped it in and it has a coiled spring clip to retain the drive flange.........the reason I was working on it is because the rotors are very hard to turn......I was able to remove the drove flange and it spins freely.....so the wheel bearings are fine...put the drive flange in and low and behold it binds!....the drive flanges are milled incorrectly......nice huh!
Figures.
At least it's an inexpensive screw up.
Fergie
November 14th, 2005, 16:10
pics?
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67848
Should be in there.
rockwerks
November 14th, 2005, 17:04
Figures.
At least it's an inexpensive screw up.
turns out to be terraflex drive hubs one is ok and one is screwed up...the other more serious problem appears that the axles are not centered in the rotor one side is off the toe back and bottom and the other to the front and bottom....I will check farther in the morning but it appears that the spindles whre not welded on corectly.....Im hoping Im wrong
Jeff 98XJ WI
November 15th, 2005, 11:14
Just so you all realize, this axle he is talking about is custom made by Extreme Axle Sales in New York. They use weld on spindles that stock front Dana 60 hubs/rotors fit on. So, the make up of this axle would be just like a front axle, but uses a double splined axle shaft with one end fitting into the diff side gears and one end fitting into a drive flange. I believe the drive flange is held in the hub by a large snap ring just like drive flanges (or lockout hubs) are held in a Dana 44 front hub. What I think he found as a problem is that the double splined axle shafts want to sit offset in the spindle bore. I assume the shaft can be pulled straight enough to get the drive flange on, but then there is tension at the side gear and the drive flange, and consequently, the rotor is hard to turn. I'm really interested in what the final outcome is, so keep us informed. Jeff
Root Moose
November 15th, 2005, 11:18
Sounds kludgey - too bad. Would be a nice alternative to 5 on 5.5" GM 14B.
Jeff 98XJ WI
November 15th, 2005, 15:45
I don't know what you mean by Kludgey or a good alternative to 5 on 5.5 14Bolt? I think it is a great rear axle setup. First, it's full float, second, it uses the same setup that a front 60 would use for bearings, rotor, etc., third, the axle shaft can be hardened all the way from end to end with NO flange of any sort. One can build it so the two custom double splined shafts can be the same length. One can build it to use seals at the diff, at the spindle, or none and let the diff lube get to the bearings. If using a seal, one must grease the bearings just like in front. The hubs can stay 8 lug or be machined for 6 lug or 5 lug. It's all possible. Jeff
Kaczman
November 15th, 2005, 16:42
Sounds like a sweet set-up. Did you weld the spindles, or did a shop do it? I hope a jig or allignment bar was used. Either way, you should be able to have the spindle cut off and re-welded to fix the problem.
-Jon
Jeff 98XJ WI
November 15th, 2005, 18:40
Sounds like a sweet set-up. Did you weld the spindles, or did a shop do it? I hope a jig or allignment bar was used. Either way, you should be able to have the spindle cut off and re-welded to fix the problem.
-Jon
Read much Jon? :) "Just so you all realize, this axle he is talking about is custom made by Extreme Axle Sales in New York. They use weld on spindles that stock front Dana 60 hubs/rotors fit on." However, I am working on a similar axle myself. I'm using a HP D60 center section and retubing the short side. I would like to make adapters that press on the tube ends and allow stock Dana 60 front spindles to bolt to them. However, I am concerned about alignment issues if done this way. I suppose I should make my adapters butt weld to the tube and use an alignment bar to position them. However, then I've got a butt weld instead of a pressed on end. Seems to me the press on end would be much stronger. Aparently another cool way to go is to use a Warn 9" full float kit and install big bearing 9" ends on the housing using the alignment bar and butt weld tecnique. Jeff
Kaczman
November 15th, 2005, 19:23
I read this :)
...he is talking about is custom made by Extreme Axle Sales in New York. They use weld on spindles that stock front Dana 60 hubs/rotors fit on.
Cut the spindle off, allign it properly, and fix the problem. If they used a jig or allignment bar, the housing and spindles should not be the problem.
Many of the aftermarket SF 60's have 9" big bearing ends butt welded without any problems. I have one sitting in the garage right now. A full floater should be just as reliable.
-Jon
rockwerks
November 16th, 2005, 06:44
Just so you all realize, this axle he is talking about is custom made by Extreme Axle Sales in New York. They use weld on spindles that stock front Dana 60 hubs/rotors fit on. So, the make up of this axle would be just like a front axle, but uses a double splined axle shaft with one end fitting into the diff side gears and one end fitting into a drive flange. I believe the drive flange is held in the hub by a large snap ring just like drive flanges (or lockout hubs) are held in a Dana 44 front hub. What I think he found as a problem is that the double splined axle shafts want to sit offset in the spindle bore. I assume the shaft can be pulled straight enough to get the drive flange on, but then there is tension at the side gear and the drive flange, and consequently, the rotor is hard to turn. I'm really interested in what the final outcome is, so keep us informed. Jeff
Its in Phoneix at Blake machine being realligned right now
xjcrawlr
November 16th, 2005, 07:12
Its in Phoneix at Blake machine being realligned right now
Would they be able to machine D60 FF spindles for 35 spline? I've got a stock FF 30 spline I want to upgrade, and I'm having a hard time finding a shop with a big enough lathe.
rockwerks
November 16th, 2005, 07:31
Would they be able to machine D60 FF spindles for 35 spline? I've got a stock FF 30 spline I want to upgrade, and I'm having a hard time finding a shop with a big enough lathe.
yes they will be able too. They are correcting the missalignment after they cut and reweld the spindles on a lathe that will accept the entire housing. Blake machine. on 8th st off pima downtown. They have been doing work like this for 50 years (602) 258-3219. Just dont call em till after they are done with mine
On a side note the guys at extreme axle are taking care of the problem for me cost wise and since Im in a time crunch they are letting me take it local to have it realligned.
They offered to make up a new housing and me sending the gears and arb back to them on their ups account.
They use a jig and do many axles without problems, I believe it was cuased by a man who only worked there a couple of days and has been let go
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