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engine turns over and over but just won't start. HELP!!

85xjwoody

85xjwoody

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Little Suamico Wi.
Ok here is what we are dealing with:

85 2.5 carbed engine that just got swapped in. Each wire has spark, been dumping gas down the carb as needed, everything is plugged in and where it is supposed to be except a couple of vac. lines.
I pulled the plugs and there is a very small trace of gas on them so they are not flooded out.
Just can't get it to start. It will sound like it wants to start once in a while but never goes. Firing order is right.
Am I missing something here? Any suggestions or ideas are greatly appreciated.
TIA

Kim.
 
Matthew Currie said:
Timing? You don't say whether the distributor has been removed or replaced. Make sure it's not retarded, and remember that it is only right at every other rotation of the crank.
Click to expand...

I never touched the distributor except to change the plugs and wires. Possible that the previous owner messed something up on the distributor and couldn't figure it out and that is why it went to the junkyard? Who knows.

I just got done dumping some oil/gas mixture down the cylinders and put regular gas down the carb and it made a couple of hickups and that was it.

If the previous owner messed up the timing how do I set it right? Not much to search for on this subject so it is a learning process. When I replaced the engine before I never had this many problems. It at least fired up and then ran like shit but this engine just won't start.

Anymore suggestions?

Kim.
 
Just got done changing the distributor cover and rotor to see if there was a change and no change. Sounds like it wants to start but is really struggling to get a good start. It hickups and chugs like every other rotation. I am totally stumped on this. I will try to dump more gas in the cylinders later tonight and see if a little more will help it along.

Still open for suggestions and ideas. No, I am not going to FI or a different engine so those options are not available.
Thanks

Kim.
 
The problem isn't adding gas, its that the plugs have gotten wet with gas. This is a common problem. Get a set of $.89 Champions and swap them. Also make sure the choke is not closed. It is a common problem I've owned/rebuilt/converted/cussed the 2.5L's and have tons of real, not theoretical experience. A plug that has gotten wet, will cause problems. You can clean them, but for $.89 each, it just isn't worth it.
 
old_man said:
The problem isn't adding gas, its that the plugs have gotten wet with gas. This is a common problem. Get a set of $.89 Champions and swap them. Also make sure the choke is not closed. It is a common problem I've owned/rebuilt/converted/cussed the 2.5L's and have tons of real, not theoretical experience. A plug that has gotten wet, will cause problems. You can clean them, but for $.89 each, it just isn't worth it.
Click to expand...

When I took out the old plugs and put in the new ones they were barely wet and the front cylinder spark plug was dry. I put in new bosch plugs and got the same result. I pulled the new plugs and they not wet but you could smell strong gas smell on them. Put them back in and tried it with the same result. Choke has been open the whole time. Thanks for the help Old Man. Anything else?

Kim.
 
Are you really sure you actually have spark? I'm starting from scratch here, so please humor me.

If you have spark and have a rotor under the distributor cap (I did this once :laugh3: :laugh3: :laugh3: ) then maybe it is a fuel problem. That engine has a mechanical fuel pump. That would be my next culprit to check out. Maybe pull the fuel line and feed it into a bottle. Crank the engine and see that it is putting out any volume. Fuel filter? This test should tell you either way.

You say firing order is right, but just to be sure, move the engine to TDC and verify the rotor is pointing at the right wire.

When all else fails, revert to the absolute most basic pieces of the puzzle and take NOTHING for granted. Good Luck.

When you cycle the power does the Solevac cycle?
 
Good advice from Tom; the fuel line in the bottle is basic and a quick check. No smoking when doing this..... :flame:

If it's getting fuel, try running a temporary jumper wire directly from the battery positive to the positive coil terminal. This bypasses the switch and some other stuff, and might give a stronger spark. This is only for trying to start it, and should be removed afterwards.

ROE
 
Thank you for the help everyone. I will try the fuel line tomorrow. Yes, the solvac is working. I just don't understand what could be the problem. Even if the fuel line is clogged or no pressure shouldn't the engine still fire when gas is put into the carb and there is spark? What could cause a low spark? Could I not have enough spark for some reason? I will look into things more tomorrow afternoon. Thanks again for the help.

Kim.
 
Ok, tried a few different things last night. I checked the fuel line and pump and everything is working. Fuel was flowing into a bottle. Took off the valve cover to see if I had a valve or two sticking and they are all working correctly. I took out the plugs and turned the engine over to see if anything would come out and nothing did.

I left the plugs out over night to let things dry out a little. I just don't understand this no start when there is spark and gas. I am going to get a couple sets of cheap plugs to try out. When I get the valve cover back on and the new plugs in I will try it again. If it still doesn't start than it is back to square one and go through things step by step, again. Yesterday, when I put in new plugs, it almost started but just didn't catch. There is spark but I wonder if there is enough spark.

What could be causing low spark on all four plugs if that is the problem? Any other thoughts out there? TIA

Kim.
 
Kim, if the spark is marginal, you can see it with a sparkplug out of the engine, but when under compression, the plug won't spark. It takes much more voltage to create a spark inside the combustion chamber.

Many things can weaken the spark, most likely the coil, ignition module or a bad ground or connection to it. Try the jumper wire trick and see if it'll start. That may temporarily give a stronger spark.

If you have a multimeter, it's easy to test the coil, that would be the next step if the jumper wire trick dosen't work.
 
i had the same problem with a 91. i've tried everything that you've tried so far. even mechanics couldn't figure it out. one of my buddies suggested doing the crank positioning sensor CPS (located where the tranny connects to the motor, on top). it was a bitch to get to but it helped. it didn't completely solve it, but it started after about 10 secs. of cranking. if it was warm, it started right away. try that. good luck
 
Konrad said:
i had the same problem with a 91. i've tried everything that you've tried so far. even mechanics couldn't figure it out. one of my buddies suggested doing the crank positioning sensor CPS (located where the tranny connects to the motor, on top). it was a bitch to get to but it helped. it didn't completely solve it, but it started after about 10 secs. of cranking. if it was warm, it started right away. try that. good luck
Click to expand...

Sorry, mine is an 85 carbed. I do not have a CPS.

Kim
 
If you can, put a charger on the battery to make sure it is up to snuff. If it still does not start, you most likely have a carb problem. That carb has a computer controlled main jet. The carb may need to be disassembled, cleaned and a kit installed. A quick help might be to unscrew the gas inlet and see if you can squirt some carb cleaner in the carb. If the bowl is already full, that won't work. You might be able to get away with pulling the top of the carb and getting access to the bowl, then squirt the cleaner in the jets to remove the buildup. Once you get it running, I would use a can of BG44K in the gas to clean the rest of the buildup over a period of time.

Your comment about a couple of valves sticking is bothersome. If this happens when you start the engine you will get backfire and possibly bend a valve or put a hole in the top of the piston. I would pull the plugs and crank the enging until the valves seem to be working correctly.
 
Your comment about a couple of valves sticking is bothersome. If this happens when you start the engine you will get backfire and possibly bend a valve or put a hole in the top of the piston. I would pull the plugs and crank the enging until the valves seem to be working correctly.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the post Old Man. First off, about the valves comment. A friend told me to check to see if they were sticking at all because they could be causing these problems along with more other severe problems. They are working correctly so that is not it.

As far as the carb goes, I will just swap in one that I know works instead of taking the one currently on there apart and seeing if that is the problem. The carbs on my two other engines worked good so I will try one of them. I got another set of new plugs so I will try them in a little while since my battery is currently on the charger. Thanks again for your help. It is greatly appreciated.

Kim.
 
Looks like I am going to be taking the carb apart because the two main bolts to get the carb off are almost impossible for me to get off. The bolt closest to the valve cover I cannot figure out a way to get off. Cannot even get a 1/4" socket to fit. This will be a fun task for the day.

Kim.
 
I remember that PIA bolt/nut. Can't remember exactly how I used to get it off. I think I ground down a wrench. If I remember right the angle sucks for a socket. On mine, once you got the nut loose, you could spin it off with your finger tips.

You are using you head doing the swap. That is the perfect way to divide and conquer.
 
old_man said:
I remember that PIA bolt/nut. Can't remember exactly how I used to get it off. I think I ground down a wrench. If I remember right the angle sucks for a socket. On mine, once you got the nut loose, you could spin it off with your finger tips.

You are using you head doing the swap. That is the perfect way to divide and conquer.
Click to expand...

I will try grinding down a 14m wrench and see if that works. Hopefully it don't break. At this point anything is worth a try and that is not a costly try. Thanks again.

Kim.
 
BIG PROBLEMS!! I think.

After replacing the valve cover and putting in new plugs I tried to start it. It almost fired. Then I seen ALOT of white smoke coming out of the rear hose of the valve cover and somewhere else from under the carb area. I mean alot of smoke. It filled my garage in a few seconds. Is this engine shot? What the hell is wrong with it?
Is the head bad or something else? Might as well not even try to swap carbs now until I see what the hell this smoke is all about. I think this motor was shot when I got it. I sure hope that I don't have to bring this thing back because I had to swap alot of parts over to get this to work.

Anybody know what this smoke is all about?

Kim.
 
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