RE goods

I just ordered an RE slip yoke eliminator and CV driveshaft. I understand the install process on both of those. Right now I have 3" of lift and stock driveshaft with a transfer case drop and 3 degree shims. After the install I know I can lose the t case drop kit. At the end, I'll then have to re-measure the driveline angles and see where things are correct? If they line up like they should on that Driveline 101 site then I can leave the shims alone. However, I may have to go in and swap them after I get some #'s correct? Hopefully this will go smoothly and I will end up vibe free.

-Chris

Yes, you understand correctly.

Thanks Ecksjay

Sounds like things are coming together for you. Good deal!

DAryl

With 3* shims, you should be just fine. After talking to the guys at Carolina Rock Shop and Dirk at DPG about doing this exact setup, 3* is what they both recommended.

One other thing, what kind of shims do you have? If they are aluminum, I'd look at getting some steel shims. At 3*, I think they are like $12 each IIRC. Steel is just a better option than aluminum from what I've heard...

Good luck, and I hope that helped.

Starscream918 said:

from what I've heard...

Click to expand...

What have you done though? Experience is what matters when replying to tech questions.

A 3 degree shim may or MAY NOT BE enough for his particular application. Strange things have happened and spring perches HAVE been put on crooked from the factory, hence the facilitation of angle measurements. Add in that YOU may have experience with a Dana 35 and his may be a Dana 44 or Chrysler rear end...both of which can be impacted differently by a particular shim.

He's on the right track, pay attention.

The folks at RE thought that 3 degree might be close enough but as Ecksjay said, I'll have to get the SYE and new shaft installed and then put the angle finder on the driveline and see if the rear end works as is. It'd be nice if it did. As for the material...they ARE aluminum. I knew I'd eventually get things squared away the right way when funds allowed. If 3 degree is good then I will order the burlier steel ones. I have heard the aluminum ones can break.

Hoping to get things in order here so I can get with some guys near me in the Spring and up my driving skills from what I'd call non-existent to sub-par. After this install, my plans are for AJ's Rock Rails, some type of roof basket and some tow points. I'm also looking to pick up a 135 welder and practice over the winter. I'd like to try and fab a spare carrier/bumper. Someone just told me that a 135 wouldn't be able to weld a bumper and I'd need a 251. Any advice? Thanks guys.

riverfever said:

I have heard the aluminum ones can break.

Someone just told me that a 135 wouldn't be able to weld a bumper and I'd need a 251. Any advice? Thanks guys.

Click to expand...

Aluminum is a good product in compression make sure the u-bolts are torqued properly and regularly.

Every welder has a spec sheet with it that will tell you what size material you can expect to weld with it, check the sheet and make sure it matches what you plan on useing it for. Obviously a larger output 220 welder will be more capable with larger materials than a smaller output 110 welder.

Michael