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broken caliper bolt

mattmocarsky

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Woodbridge, NJ
Pulled off my Right front tire and found the caliper loose and one of the bolts missing. A small piece of the bolt was still in the steering knuckle. I eventually was able to get the piece out, but not without damaging the threads a little. Now when the bolt goes in, it does so on a slight angle and when pulling the bolt out I've noticed the threads on the bolt are slightly damaged, but I am able to tighten the bolt. Should I just leave it or should I go ahead and re-thread the hole. thanks.

matt
 
I'd drill the hole and Heli-Coil it - not the cheapest solution, but the best. You'll want to pull the caliper mounting bracket and work one a drill press, so you don't screw up and get the hole crooked.

The caliper bolts are special items, but can be had in the aftermarket.

Be careful you don't break the bolts holding the caliper mount bracket - they're pretty special too...

5-90
 
I had the same issue a few years ago. I had to put a helicoil in the hole. i just got a kit a Auto Zone or something. 8mm I think. Then I got new OEM h-ware at the stealership. Works fine, lasts a long time.
 
Ok, I am going to use a heli coil. My question is since I am not going to be able to pull of the steering knuckle can I tap the heli coil from the front or do I have to drill and insert from behind the knuckle where it is much more difficult to acccess.
 
The caliper mount isn't separate? If you look, you might find that you can remove the caliper bracket simply by pulling two bolts - then you can put it wherever you like.

Failing that, you can work it from either side you choose - since you'll break the tang out when you're done anyhow. Given a choice, tho, I'll pull the part out so I can have it in a drill press or a vice - just so the damn thing won't move while I'm working!

5-90
 
I just found the same thing. Top caliper bolt sheared off, bottom bolt was bent to hell and almost sheared off. What would do that?? I can't think of hitting anything. It was on the same wheel as the broken axle shaft and shattered U-joint, but I wouldn't think either of those things would rip off a caliper. Opinions??

BTW, I just drilled it with a smaller bit from the other side, and it backed the bolt out nicely (a right hand drill bit acts like a left hand bit from the other side). I didn't have to tap or coil anything.
 
Make sure the pads sit in the grooves, and are for the correct side.

The C shaped groove in the pad backing should go in the front and "Hook" in at the front. The back slides in when you push on the back of the caliper, then you put your bolts in. If you put the other side towards the front, the pad could ride up on decel and put strain on the bolts.

Don't over torque the bolts. They go on with some very low torque spec, which translates to "Snug".
 
I'm not buying it. This caliper was installed correctly and had good pads. These bolts were broken from something. Any other opinion than incorrect installation??

Chinese junk bolts?
 
The caliper mount isn't separate? If you look, you might find that you can remove the caliper bracket simply by pulling two bolts - then you can put it wherever you like.

Failing that, you can work it from either side you choose - since you'll break the tang out when you're done anyhow. Given a choice, tho, I'll pull the part out so I can have it in a drill press or a vice - just so the damn thing won't move while I'm working!

5-90
The Renix years had a 2-piece knuckle, which had a bracket that was bolted to the knuckle. 91+ the knuckles were one piece. So you would have to pull the whole knuckle off.
 
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