View Full Version : upper CA axle bushing replacement
jeepme
June 26th, 2003, 05:10
Well it time to replace my upper control arm bushings on the axle(stock d 30) what is the best way to get the old ones out and new ones in. I was thinking gear puller but not to sure about that. Any suggestions would be GREATLY apreciated.
Thanks
Big Bear
June 26th, 2003, 09:12
The best way I have found to do this on a limited tool supply is to: First drill holes all the way around the rubber using the largest bit size that will go between the center bolt sleeve and the outer sleeve. Then knock out the rubber and the center sleeve. This basically leaves you with the outer sleeve to deal with. Use a cold chisle and hammer for this. Beat in the flanged side of the sleeve twards where the center sleeve was. Go all the way aroud the flang until sleeve comes loose. The new bushing can be tapped back in a hammer an a socket or peice of tubing that matches the size of the flange. I like to use anti sieze when reinstalling, it can help with future repacement.
SeanP
June 26th, 2003, 09:24
I custom built a long arm crossmember with tranny mount utilizing RE TJ long arms. Lots of measuring cutting grinding. Welded angle to the unibody for reinforcment. Big project. But the hardest part was replacing those damn bushings. I tried just about every puller tool out there but there is no way to get on the lip of the bushing. I ended up drilling out some of the rubber then taking a sawsall and cutting from the inside at 6 oclock and 12 oclock positions, there by cutting the bushing shell into two hemispheres. Be very careful not to cut into the cast (very much). Use a punch and BFH to get the carnage out of the axle. I used replacement bushings from RE. Prior to installation I used an angle grinder to turn down the raised shoulder of the new bushing which allowed it to be pressed in (via BFH) to the axle.
I have yet to hear of an easier way to do this task, but maybe a jeep tech will chime in here
good luck
SeanP
CameronB
June 26th, 2003, 12:26
I put an RE rubber bushing in my pass side no problem last fall, but destroyed 2 RE bushings trying to pound them in to the driver side. We even heated that hole on the pumpkin verrrry hot, and it still wouldn't pound in. So that same old bushing is still clunking around in there, and I just got a bushing for napa (4.50) and am hoping it will go in. It seems that expanded portion of the RE bushing wouldn't go into the pumpkin hole.
We'll see how it goes this weekend. I have adj Tera uca and lcas.
CB
mbryson
June 26th, 2003, 12:31
I used my Harbor Freight ball-joint press. IT worked about as good as I'd expect anything too. I've gotten my $40 out of it already and it's still holding together {for how long, I don't know}
giranger
June 26th, 2003, 12:59
I also tried about everything in the world till someone told me about a tool at harbor freight (dont know the name) but its around $30 and has a large Cclamp and 3 large cirlce deals. It took a total of 30 minutes from start to finish to replace both sides. Its a removal/install type tool.
mbryson
June 26th, 2003, 13:14
Originally posted by giranger
I also tried about everything in the world till someone told me about a tool at harbor freight (dont know the name) but its around $30 and has a large Cclamp and 3 large cirlce deals. It took a total of 30 minutes from start to finish to replace both sides. Its a removal/install type tool.
That's the cool ball joint press.......I was impressed how well it worked (not often you can say that about something from HF)
Xtreme XJ
June 26th, 2003, 23:06
I too had the same problems..followed by many loud swear words BUT ! if you've got an air comp. OR have access to one an air hammer will rattle/beat the bushing out. I just got a cheapy one for like $20. It's the tool with 3 bits (usually) and a spring on the muzzle. Just afew mins. & the Dr. side was out & the pass. side only took one good hit. I also put the new bushings in the freezer the night before to help with the install. I would think the ball joint press would work pretty well.
Good Luck !!!
Curt (aka Xtreme XJ)
Bryan C.
June 27th, 2003, 00:28
I've done this project a few times with my air chisel and a long bit to remove the bushing and a bushing installer (just a fancy socket looking thing) and BFH to install the new ones. This is a very time consuming and frustrating process. So when a friend told me how he did it, I was amazed by how simple it was. He used a 4 foot section of steel pipe with a cap on one end for the BFH and various pipe fittings on the other end that either drove the bushing out or pushed the new one in place. Just bring the new bushing to the plumbing store to get the right size adapters to drive it out and back in. The long pipe length was was needed to reach across the axle to the opposite side bushing, and to be able to clear the coil spring and sway bar links. He had his wife hold the pipe in postion while he used the BFH. Hope this helps at least a little. If all else fails, keep taking things apart untill you can access the bushings easily and just don't give up.
Bryan
jeepme
June 27th, 2003, 10:44
Hey thanks for all the great Ideas. I do have an ira chisel but I think i will try finding the Harbor Freight tool and see how that go's.
wish me luck!!!!!
Ivan
June 27th, 2003, 11:08
You don't mention if your control arms are stock or not. Assuming that they are, you can get replacements from quadratec for about $13 each. Not sure if they come with bushings or not, but the pictures on their site seem to indicate that they do. Even if they don't, it would seem a whole lot easier to purchase the control arms and bushing separately, without the hassle of trying to remove the bushings from the old control arms. Hit the link below, click on the "hard parts" section, page 4.
Ivan
www.quadratec.com
GSequoia
June 27th, 2003, 11:12
Yes, they come wtih bushings. But on the UCA's the axle bushing is pressed into the Axle, not the arm...kinda a pita! (I'm doing this on Sunday)
Sequoia
Xtreme XJ
June 27th, 2003, 11:23
With the air hammer/chizel it only took me..... 10 mins. to knock
out both upper in the axle.. thats hammer time not arm removal...
6 or 7 mins. on the Dr. side & 2 on the Pass. side. So if a compressor is available ..... PLUS ! the way things are so lubed up under you XJ they should slip right out...LOL!
Good Luck !!
Curt (aka Xtreme XJ)
GSequoia
June 27th, 2003, 11:57
Well, my only concern is that I don't have an air hammer and can't afford to buy one (I'm seriously broke right now)...So I'm thinking of getting creative with lube, BFH, impact gun (it kinda punches in a little..hehe), and fire...we'll see! Plus I do have the permi-lubed undercarriage, so that's cool.
Sequoia
CameronB
June 27th, 2003, 12:14
I spent a few hours last night trying to install a new Napa and RE UCA bushing just last night... It won't even get started in the hole, and the edges start bending..!!! Somethings just not right.
This is the mount on the pumpkin. Does that tool from Harbor Freight install them as well?
Also, what my bolts that go through the center of these bushings fit pretty loose. Shouldn't it be a snug fit? If so I need new bolts. What type should I use? (hardness etc.)
CB
mbryson
June 27th, 2003, 12:27
Originally posted by CameronB
I spent a few hours last night trying to install a new Napa and RE UCA bushing just last night... It won't even get started in the hole, and the edges start bending..!!! Somethings just not right.
This is the mount on the pumpkin. Does that tool from Harbor Freight install them as well?
Also, what my bolts that go through the center of these bushings fit pretty loose. Shouldn't it be a snug fit? If so I need new bolts. What type should I use? (hardness etc.)
CB
?????????:confused: :confused: :confused:
The only thing I can think of is the sheetmetal 'sleeve' must still be in the housing? Mine 'fit', but needed the HF install tool to pursuede them into the mount. (that or I envisioned a 12 lb. hammer would be cool, but I couldn't envision ANYONE that would want to hold the bushing)
Xtreme XJ
June 27th, 2003, 12:37
Cameron You might try the freezer for afew hours to "constrict" the bushing down alittle. I don't know the tech. terminology for it.
Is the bolt loose all the way through...I think the bushings have raised points inside the inner sleeve.....I think. I can't remember the size... I just went to the hardware store & got the same size in a standard thread. (no metric) You might if you haven't already check for burrs on the axle mount clean it up alittle... Use some anti seize maybe...Sorry I can't be of more help...
Sequoia... looks like a drill & chizels & FIRE !.... becarefull you don't catch the "permi-lube" on fire.....
See Ya !
Curt (aka Xtreme XJ)
MudDawg
June 27th, 2003, 17:00
Check for sharp edges on the bushing hole in the axle. Use a round file and sandcloth to remove the shap edges.. a Dremel tool will work too..same princlple applies to installing u-joints too.
CameronB
June 27th, 2003, 21:22
No sharp edges, and the whole bushing (old one) has been out several times, only to go back in after new ones refuse to be pounded in with my 4lb hammer. I've tried anti sieze too.
There are little knobs inside the inner sleeve that I believe should be in contact with the bolt. These are very worn down. I'll check the hardware store I guess, and get that HF tool.
What a PITA
Xtreme XJ
June 27th, 2003, 22:49
Hey CB
Not try'n to second guess you but you didn't get the bigger bushing by accident ? I believe there are two sizes.. Is it rubber or poly. ? Like I said not try'n to doubt you but I've had my fair share of goof ball parts guys...
Good Luck !!
Curt (aka Xtreme XJ)
CameronB
June 28th, 2003, 13:04
Nope, it's the right one. The same one fit just fine on the pass side. I've tried the RE and the Napa uca bushings. They'll just barely start in the hole on the pumpkin.
I'll be getting a tool for it and trying that route. But it doesn't look possible, unless that outer sleave compresses quite a bit. I'll try the freezer idea too. They are rubber.
What other size are you talking about? LCA frame side bushings?
CB
Xtreme XJ
June 28th, 2003, 23:16
C.B.
I think it's the frame end.... I did mine a year ago & there were two sizes.... I got so pissed cause I broke a vise thats been in the family for 40 yrs. that I went & got a budget hydralic press to push out the old & in the new on my R.E. arms.
Good Luck !
Curt (aka Xtreme XJ)
pair8hd
October 25th, 2004, 19:00
Anyone have a Moog part # for these upper axle bushings?
Can seem to find them at Autozone or O'Reilly's ( I have no NAPA near by).
TIA
RCP Phx
October 25th, 2004, 19:28
Anyone have a Moog part # for these upper axle bushings?
Can seem to find them at Autozone or O'Reilly's ( I have no NAPA near by).
TIA
The Moog# is K3128!
Goatman
October 25th, 2004, 19:32
Damn, I guess this hasn't come up for awhile. I don't have them any more, but when I used to have to change my UCA axle bushings regularly I could do one, start to finish, in about 15 minutes. The key is having the right tool.
Take a length of 2.5" exhaust tubing, just long enough for the bushing to fit into the tubing, and weld a large flat washer on one end. Get a length of all thread rod, a couple of long nuts, and an assortment of washers. Put the bushing tool (cup) up against the bushing, put the threaded rod through the hole, put on the washers and nuts, and tighten the nut to pull out the bushing. It will come right out. Now, put the tool on the other side of the mount, and reverse the process to install the new bushing.
It's easy to make the tool, and it then becomes easy to remove and install those bushings. I also did it once with my Harbor Freight ball joint press, which worked fine, but I still think it was easier with the simple bushing tool.
mbryson
October 25th, 2004, 19:52
Damn, I guess this hasn't come up for awhile. I don't have them any more, but when I used to have to change my UCA axle bushings regularly I could do one, start to finish, in about 15 minutes. The key is having the right tool.
Take a length of 2.5" exhaust tubing, just long enough for the bushing to fit into the tubing, and weld a large flat washer on one end. Get a length of all thread rod, a couple of long nuts, and an assortment of washers. Put the bushing tool (cup) up against the bushing, put the threaded rod through the hole, put on the washers and nuts, and tighten the nut to pull out the bushing. It will come right out. Now, put the tool on the other side of the mount, and reverse the process to install the new bushing.
It's easy to make the tool, and it then becomes easy to remove and install those bushings. I also did it once with my Harbor Freight ball joint press, which worked fine, but I still think it was easier with the simple bushing tool.
I like your 'tool' idea better than the ball joint press (which is what I've used).
Xtreme XJ
October 25th, 2004, 23:19
Damn, I guess this hasn't come up for awhile. I don't have them any more, but when I used to have to change my UCA axle bushings regularly I could do one, start to finish, in about 15 minutes. The key is having the right tool.
Take a length of 2.5" exhaust tubing, just long enough for the bushing to fit into the tubing, and weld a large flat washer on one end. Get a length of all thread rod, a couple of long nuts, and an assortment of washers. Put the bushing tool (cup) up against the bushing, put the threaded rod through the hole, put on the washers and nuts, and tighten the nut to pull out the bushing. It will come right out. Now, put the tool on the other side of the mount, and reverse the process to install the new bushing.
It's easy to make the tool, and it then becomes easy to remove and install those bushings. I also did it once with my Harbor Freight ball joint press, which worked fine, but I still think it was easier with the simple bushing tool.
Well I agree with Gman on the home made tool BUT ! it didn't work for me....
Maybe mine was alittle tighter than others. It took me alittle while to get the tool made & only afew mins. to break it....
I would of been time & exteme frustration ahead if I'd just got the balljoint
press or the hyd. press (which I did) in the first place. I think Auto Zone has
a tool loan program. On the Dr. side bushing on the axle I just used a air hammer/chisel to hammer it out..... 5 mins. about 5 mins. to install.
Bottom line.... I have to do things AT LEAST ! twice before getting it right.
Curt (aka Xtreme XJ)
Loose_Nuts_Enterprises
October 26th, 2004, 08:27
Well, my only concern is that I don't have an air hammer and can't afford to buy one (I'm seriously broke right now)...So I'm thinking of getting creative with lube, BFH, impact gun (it kinda punches in a little..hehe), and fire...we'll see! Plus I do have the permi-lubed undercarriage, so that's cool.
Sequoia
Perma lubed undercarriage and fire sounds like an interesting combo. Better have a nomex suit and fire extinguisher handy.
Dan
Kejtar
October 26th, 2004, 08:33
Perma lubed undercarriage and fire sounds like an interesting combo. Better have a nomex suit and fire extinguisher handy.
Dan
Hey Dan.... you wanna hear about the time when Sequoia was cutting the plastic skid wanna be thing from the tank? Story includes an exacto knife and a propane torch.
ANyways the tool that Goat described worked good for me on 3 out of 4 bushings (had to do it twice! on two axles). One of the bushings (of course it was the drivers side one on the pumkpin) was near welded inside. I ended up drilling the rubber out, bending and folding the metal piece and then sliding it out (the bending and folding was actually somewhat hard and included some work with a metal saw).
JKTXJ
October 26th, 2004, 08:38
Mine usually fall out when it's time to replace them, however, I had to coerce one or two before. Used a big impact socket that just fit on the bushing shell and then the trusty BFH. For putting them back in I used the freezer for the bushing and then pushed it in with a big C Clamp using two steel plates on each side of it (one against the ear on the housing, the other on the outside of the bushing). Then when I could not get it any further (pumpkin side), I tapped it home with a hammer and socket. Note that the bushing on the pumpkin end does not insert all the way in. Kind of a goofy setup, but that's Jeep for ya. I also tack welded the passenger side one this last time because it always gets loose and wobbles around after a bit of flexing. I have really looked hard at the Currie conversion to Johnny Joints on the axle end, but I also have Superflex joints on the body side and worry about a hard hit transmitting all the shock to something other than the bushing..... Anyone using these?
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