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NVG241OR Install Questions???

X

XJ4playin

NAXJA Forum User
Location
MN
I picked up a NVG241OR back a few months ago and have finally stated the install. I have it all bolted up to the trany and am ready to replace the rear flange with a yoke and hook up the linkages.

I know there are a few guys here that have installed the 241 in their XJ - what did you have to do the the linkage - if anything?

Also I ordered a 1330 yoke from JB Conversions and John cautioned me to be careful during the install not to let the output shaft move....there is the possibility of getting a gear stuck behind the oil pump and ripping the oil pump apart. Is this still an issue if the TC is already bolted to the trany? I took the rear flange off and the output shaft doesn't seem to move in our out all, and being the trany is in gear in really can rotate. Just want to be sure I don't get my new toy installed only to fawk it up.

Any other suggestion???

THANKS!
 
I haven't actually disassembled one of them yet. But what he's referring to is the pump rotor which is splined to the mainshaft. It sits very close to the edge of the spline. The JB super short kit I just did is the same way. You need to put the trans in nuetral so you can verify that the mainshaft turns easily as your tightening the yoke down. Go slow and if it starts to bind the shaft, then the pump rotor has probably fallen off the shaft spline. In that case you will need to remove the tailhousing to get it back into position.
 
explorer said:
I haven't actually disassembled one of them yet. But what he's referring to is the pump rotor which is splined to the mainshaft. It sits very close to the edge of the spline. The JB super short kit I just did is the same way. You need to put the trans in nuetral so you can verify that the mainshaft turns easily as your tightening the yoke down. Go slow and if it starts to bind the shaft, then the pump rotor has probably fallen off the shaft spline. In that case you will need to remove the tailhousing to get it back into position.
Click to expand...

If I leave the trany in park so the shaft won't turn shouldn't this prevent the pump getting hung up while I tighten the yoke down?
 
I installed a 241 T case behind an NV4500 in my 89 Cherokee. Basically what I did was modify the linkage to connect directly from the shift lever directly to T case shifter. I carefully ground the one end down so the adjuster slid off the link of one and fit over the end of the other (or something like that). Then carefully hammered the end a bit to keep it from slipping off. Then connected it straight from the shifter to the shift lever on the T case. I had to modify the shifter gate so I could pull the handle all the way to the rear to engage 4 hi. What I ended up with was all the way forward & down was 4 low, part way up was 2wd and all the way back 4 hi. I know, I'm not explaining this well, but if you look at your linkage & such it might help clear up what I'm saying

Shifter: The shifter inside the Jeep that selects 4hi/4lo/2wd
Shift lever: The lever on the T case itself
 
XJ4, What allows the rotor to drop off the splines is that when you remove the yoke, there is some endplay in the shaft. If it moves slightly forward into the case, the rotor can drop. You want to be able to turn the t-case mainshaft to verify that it is free. If the shaft wont turn easily with your hand, it indicates that something is binding. Either shift the trans or t-case to the nuetral position so you can turn it. If the pump rotor slips down, the issue is that as you tighten the yoke down and the shaft pulls up tight, the pump rotor will be pulled along with it, distorting it rather than sliding along the splines. It is free floating on the shaft if properly in place. By the way, where in MN are you from? And where do you wheel?
 
Last one of these I did, the rod length had to be changed. Might have had to re-angle the arm also. Don't remember exactly, it was a couple years ago, but it was no big deal to hook up the shifter.
 
explorer said:
XJ4, What allows the rotor to drop off the splines is that when you remove the yoke, there is some endplay in the shaft. If it moves slightly forward into the case, the rotor can drop. You want to be able to turn the t-case mainshaft to verify that it is free. If the shaft wont turn easily with your hand, it indicates that something is binding. Either shift the trans or t-case to the nuetral position so you can turn it. If the pump rotor slips down, the issue is that as you tighten the yoke down and the shaft pulls up tight, the pump rotor will be pulled along with it, distorting it rather than sliding along the splines. It is free floating on the shaft if properly in place. By the way, where in MN are you from? And where do you wheel?
Click to expand...

I'm about a little over an hour from you - in Mankato. Most of my wheeling has been done in Dresser, WI - I've got friends in the Go-4's. I plan to spend some time at Apple Valley Farms and at Gilbert this summer. How about you?

Well I put the new yoke on. After the install I put the TC in neutral and slowly rotated the rear shaft. There was a little resistance to initally get the shaft spinning but once moving everygthing seemd ok.....
 
Should be good then. I used to spend alot of time up around Backus/Pine river area. Otherwise, Dresser many times, Gilbert, and playing round my parents cabin on the WI border south of Superior. I started Mn Offroad Explorers several years ago, but lately it has kind of fallen apart and most of the members don't have anything running right now. I'm registered for the Crawl 4 Cure at Gilbert in July, but have a baby due middle of July, so we'll see how that goes. Who do you know from the Go-4's?

Brian
 
I only know a few people but spend most of our time with Bob and Sue G. (not sure how to spell their last name). They have a 50's Jeep with 44" Boggers.
 
In my 95 I replaced the 242 with a 241 without any linkage changes!
 
RCP Phx said:
In my 95 I replaced the 242 with a 241 without any linkage changes!
Click to expand...

I don't know how you guys can do these things. Way too confusing for me.
I have a 231 and would like to replace it with a 242 in my '96 with 4.0 and AW4.
My understanding is that sometimes you have to use the input gear from the 231 in the 242 to match the transmission output.
So far, so good. My problem starts with the knowledge that 231s, have not only different shaft lengths (short, medium, long) but are also made for two different bearings (narrow and wide) and can have an early or late gear cut.
The last two items are very important the way I see it. If the gear cut of the 231 shaft is not the same as the one on the 242, then the three little pinions will not match the annulus gear.
I have not been able to find any type of compatibility list and I don't see how I can buy a 242 unless it is guaranteed to match the AW4 output.
If I have to open up the two TCs to swap parts I think that I will be opening a can of worms.
What am I missing?
 
Falcon, you pretty much hit on all the potential differences. I haven't seen a cross reference chart, but I haven't looked. I always just match the parts side by side after their out. The t-case can be broken down completely in under an hour even if you haven't done it. Some sockets, something to pry the case apart and a snap ring pliers are all it takes.
 
explorer said:
I always just match the parts side by side after their out. The t-case can be broken down completely in under an hour even if you haven't done it. Some sockets, something to pry the case apart and a snap ring pliers are all it takes.
Click to expand...

I am not concerned about braking the case down, I'm concerned about what I'll find once I do. I need to know before I get it.
It would be a problem for me to remove my TC compare it to the one I just had shipped and find out that the input shafts don't match. At this point I have to reinstall mine or decide whether I should ship the 242 back, if I open it and find out that the gear cut is not the same, I got myself a very big expensive paperweight.
There has to be a way to know before I pay.
I find it hard to believe that with so many experts on this list we cannot figure it out.
 
falcon556 said:
I don't know how you guys can do these things. Way too confusing for me.
I have a 231 and would like to replace it with a 242 in my '96 with 4.0 and AW4.
My understanding is that sometimes you have to use the input gear from the 231 in the 242 to match the transmission output.
So far, so good. My problem starts with the knowledge that 231s, have not only different shaft lengths (short, medium, long) but are also made for two different bearings (narrow and wide) and can have an early or late gear cut.
The last two items are very important the way I see it. If the gear cut of the 231 shaft is not the same as the one on the 242, then the three little pinions will not match the annulus gear.
I have not been able to find any type of compatibility list and I don't see how I can buy a 242 unless it is guaranteed to match the AW4 output.
If I have to open up the two TCs to swap parts I think that I will be opening a can of worms.
What am I missing?
Click to expand...

If you have a '96 with an AW4 your Trany to TC is 23 spline. Which means you just need a 23 spline 242 - which I believe they all are. The Jeep I just installed my 241OR into orginally had a 242, then I installed a 231, and now a 241OR. I think the issues you are talking about are only for early XJ's and 4 cyc models. You shouldn't have to pull the TC apart to determine if it will fit. Simple count the # of spline and compare the Trany to TC shaft length that sticks out of the TC's....If you have more questions PM me your # and I'll give you a call.
 
scott00tj said:
You had no issues with the input gear of the 241OR bolting up to the back the AW4?
Click to expand...

It depends on what year transmission your trying to install it on,the 241OR only comes in a 23spline/short input gear.
Direct fit on my 95 AW4,I used all the factory linkage from a 242,just changes out the shift bezel.
 
I have a 97 xj I am looking at doing a 4.5 inch to clear 31's or 32's I know that I will have to correct the slip yoke, what I am wondering will the tc from a rubicon be a direct bolt in in place of the 231, from the post I am seeing the 241 is larger than the 231 which makes sense, but I am not to keen on tearing the tc apart to replace the tail shaft, and if i serch salvage yards I could probably pick up a good 241 for a pretty fair price as opposed to the atlas or stak
 
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