ZJ disc removal info

I'm looking at coughing up lots of cash for work to my rear drums, and it may well be worthwhile just changing over to rear discs. I know that with a bit of milling the bracket will just slip straight onto my 8.25, but I don't want to buy the whole axle from a breaker, and am looking to see how much work would be involved in getting the back plate off without damaging the ZJ axle (which they could still resell).

Isn't it just a matter of removing the drive shafts and unbolting the backing plate/ bracket? It wouldn't necessarily involve damage to the donor axle, would it?

There's a little flange on the axle tubes with 4 bolt holes just like the 8.25. The bracket should just unbolt from the flange without any damage.

That's what I thought. I don't understand why the guy was saying it would involve damaging the axle at all. He must have been after flogging me the whole shooting match for £500 ($900). The ironic thing is, I've just been quoted £200 ($360) for an 8.8 with rear discs...!

get the 8.8

MaineZJ said:

get the 8.8

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Yeah then spend a load for axle mounts from MORE and have them welded to the axle if you can't weld yourself.

Chancer,

If you will have to spend that much for the parts from the yard just buy new parts from the dealer cheaper. the only thing you really need from the axle will be the bracket. You will want to replace the pads, rotors, and calipers anyway.

I see what you're saying. It shouldn't be too hard to fab up the mounts from scratch with the help of a good engineer mechanic though would it, as seen on BC4x4's website?

Unfortunately the price of new parts over here is unbelievable. I was speaking to a mate earlier who thought an 8.8 for £300 was a steal, and if I were to go via a dealership, I'd be spending more than that to get new calipers etc. I'm pricing up my options, but I'm leaning towards getting the 8.8 and selling it on: that may well cover my costs. Time to sleep on it.

Some people have adapted explorer disks to XJ 44s. Perhaps you could use the 8.8s disks then sell the rest of the axle. Free brakes?

I know there are online oem parts dealers here in the US. Why not give them a shot. You would have to pay for shipping but maybe it would be cheaper than buying locally in your case.

Also, check the for sale forum here on naxja. There is a zj part out thread. pm the guy.

HTH

Chancer said:

I'm looking at coughing up lots of cash for work to my rear drums, and it may well be worthwhile just changing over to rear discs. I know that with a bit of milling the bracket will just slip straight onto my 8.25, but I don't want to buy the whole axle from a breaker, and am looking to see how much work would be involved in getting the back plate off without damaging the ZJ axle (which they could still resell).

Isn't it just a matter of removing the drive shafts and unbolting the backing plate/ bracket? It wouldn't necessarily involve damage to the donor axle, would it?

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I've been thinking about doing it on my XJ, here is the information I have so far.
Discs from a 95-98 from ZJ will fit the XJ. No damage to the ZJ other than the fact that you need to open up the diff to release the axles and of course the loss of the disc parts that damage the resale value of the rear end.
If your XJ is an early one, you may need a master cylinder and you definetely need a proporsional valve from the donor vehicle. The interesting part IMHO is the parking brake cables. Haven't seen anything I like yet.
My local salvage yard has a few ZJ and they have no problem selling the whole thing for about $70.00. It will cost me a little more for the valve and the cables, not sure how much.

falcon556 said:

My local salvage yard has a few ZJ and they have no problem selling the whole thing for about $70.00.

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Sooner I move across the pond the better...

Does anyone know the internal diameter required to fit the brackets on to the axle? I'm wanting to do as much of the prep myself, but my XJ's laid up at the garage and can't be driven, so it's going to be a little tricky to mill out the centre blind.

Thanks.

You don't need to mill out the center - just use a sanding drum or 1" diameter stone in a drill press. a 1 hour job by hand at most.

Here is a link with pics on how to. http://www.stu-offroad.com/brakeconv/bc-1.htm

Thanks for the info everyone. I'm off to the scrapyard tomorrow! I'll let you know how I get on.

I was going to go the boneyard route for this mod, but decided to just buy new parts, from wherever I could get the best deal (there werent any best deals but....)
but I did manage to get a parts list (from someone else) of pretty much all you will need to do this mod.......

Backing Plate (Left) - Chrysler part# 4762129
Backing Plate (Right) - Chrysler part# 4762128
Banjo Bolt (2) - Chrysler Part# J4006700
Brake Caliper (Left) - Chrysler Part# 4762103
Brake Caliper (Right) - Chrysler Part# 4762102
Brake Caliper Bolts (4) - Chrysler Part# 5253000
Brake Hose Washer (4) - Chrysler Part# J3237672
Brake Rotor (2) - Chrysler Part# 52008184
Caliper Mounting Bracket (Left) - Chrysler part# 4796343
Caliper Mounting Bracket (Right) - Chrysler part# 4796342
Flex Line (Left) - Chrysler Part# 52008663
Flex Line (Right) - Chrysler Part# 52008662
Parking Bake Lever (Slide) (2) - Chrysler Part# 4762132
Parking Brake Adjusting Nut (2) - Chrysler Part# 4762118
Parking Brake Adjusting Screw (2) - Chrysler Part# 4762120
Parking Brake Adjusting Socket (2) - Chrysler Part# 4762115
Parking Brake Hold Down Clip (4) - Chrysler Part# 4762125
Parking Brake Hold Down Pin (4) - Chrysler Part# 4762126
Parking Brake Lever (Left) - Chrysler Part# 4762130
Parking Brake Lever (Right) - Chrysler Part# 4762131
Parking Brake Lever Boot (2) Chrysler Part# 4762124
Parking Brake Shoes - Chrysler Part# 4796337
Parking Brake Spring 2 (Lower) - Chrysler Part# 4762116
Parking Brake Spring 2 (Upper) - Chrysler Part# 4762127
Rear Disc Brake Pads - Chrysler Part# 4883717AA

you COULD do without the backing plate, and all the e-brake parts, but I wanted to be able to pass dmv inspection in my state - require a working parking brake, plus they're handy to have.
Hope that helps a bit, good luck.

just wondering how much all that ran you at the dealer or where ever you bought it from.

This is getting beyond a joke. I got to the scrapyard, to be greeted with WG/J bits. So much for that. It's a real bummer, since I wasn't able to cancel the freshly ordered ZJ proportioning valve in time, so I'm left with stuff I won't need if I just replace the drums.

Then I start pricing drum bits and the entire lot's going to cost something like £150-200 in parts.

How much extra work would it be for me to get the 8.8 working? I can lay my hands on the hardware needed for getting the axle underneath easily enough, but what will I need in the way of brake lines and E-brake cabling?

Fletch said:

just wondering how much all that ran you at the dealer or where ever you bought it from.

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I didnt get all of it at the stealer, what I did get wasnt cheap, and at this point more than I should have paid, probably could have scrounged up a couple of full size axles for the dough, but it's only money....:-(

You might want to look into the 2004 Liberty. They come with a chryco. 8.25 with disc brakes. Might be a bolt on swap.

MaineZJ said:

get the 8.8

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hmm thats an orginal comment.......

jeepme said:

You might want to look into the 2004 Liberty. They come with a chryco. 8.25 with disc brakes. Might be a bolt on swap.

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I'd love to, but I fear I'd end up having to buy the whole axle.