Finally, time to order my RE lift.

Finally got all my ducks lined up, time to order the lift. I'd appreciate some feedback on what I am thinking. I was going to cobble together via Ebay and such but I don't think I have the patience for it.

My Jeep is a 2001 4dr with AW4 and Select-Trac.

This is what I want to achieve (in order of importance):

• Enough clearance for 32" tires
• Daily driver and long drive friendly (i.e. best ride possible)
• Sleeper look - no tires sticking out - don't want to draw attention or be a theft target.
• No sheet metal cutting (rust belt issues)
• Reasonable flex - no need to be a ramp king

I'm thinking about these parts:

• RE 4.5" coils
• RE 3.5" full leafs
• Extended shackles to balance front to rear
• JKS Discos
• RE drop brackets
• Adjustable lower control arms (RE3720 super ride?)
• Fixed upper control arms (RE3781 super ride fixed?)
• OME Shocks (model numbers?)
• RE SYE
• Some vendor's shaft (recs?)
• Either 32x11.5x15 or 265/75-R16 tires (probably Truxus MTs)

I have gears (4.56:1) and lockers already purchased - switching to a high pinion D30 at the same time. Also have some newish ARE767s (15x8) and still need to purchase tires. I have another project for the AREs if this one requires 16" wheels so no loss.

Should I spring for adjustable upper arms at this lift height? It's 4.5"...but using drop brackets. I read Yuccaman's page and it says probably not needed BUT is it a good idea to add just to fine tune the wheel's location in the wheel well? For the sake of $20 or whatver...

Should I bother with the Super Flex versus Super Ride Arms? Best ride possible is important but I also want to minimize maintenance if possible. I drive ~2o,ooo miles per year; am I going to be replacing rubber bushings more often than the flex bushings (poly?). If it make s big difference in ride I'll put up with the rubber maintenance cycle.

In an ideal world I'd like the bulge of the tire to be just sticking out from the fender flare. Tread covered. I have the Warn 5on5.5" front hub kit so that widens my wms-wms ~1.5". Will the ARE's allow what I want? I guess I won't know till I bolt them up.

What else am I missing?

I see that Dirk at DGP is "hybrid friendly". Any other vendors that are hybrid lift friendly and more importantly knowledgable about mixing and matching RE gear?

Whew! So much for a short post...

Thanks!

r@m

Sounds like a good plan, and Dirk is great to go with for your setup. Looks like you missed the trackbar. With your list, and if you read it off to Dirk, I would suggest going with the RE 6200 5.5" XD shortarm kit, but with 3.5" ZJ coils and the 3.5" leaf packs and extended shackle as you already mentioned. Also, the 6200 comes with everything you listed already, so it will be cheaper to get the kit with the lower springs than to piece everything together. I have the 6200 kit on both my XJ's and they are daily drivers hitting an average of 20,000 miles a year. The drop brackets really help make a difference in ride quality.

To fit 32's without trimming, it will be nearly impossible to turn or flex very much at all without chewing your fenders/flares off, especially with a hub conversion kit and little backspacing on the rims. XJ's just don't take to tires bigger than 31's very well. Is your only reservation for not trimming due to the rust, or just that you don't want to cut. If just for rust, you can trim and do it right without causing any increased rust. Busmpstops are also going to be very important for running/flexing 32"+ tires. Check out my writeups on fender trimming and adjusting bumpstops to see if they may help you out:
www.rocklizardfabrications.com/tech_articles.htm

I would go ahead and get the adjustable uppers if the price difference isn't much. It's just good to have the option available to fine tune everything. As for super ride and superflex, the superflex ride very well since the joint is at the axle end and the rubber bushing is on the frame rail side to help absord everything before it is transmitted to the body. Again, why spend so much money on a great kit to have your flex hindered by going with all bushings in the control arms, when for just a little more, you can have the superflex arms.

Hope that helps.

GottaBeJeep said:

Looks like you missed the trackbar. With your list, and if you read it off to Dirk, I would suggest going with the RE 6200 5.5" XD shortarm kit, but with 3.5" ZJ coils and the 3.5" leaf packs and extended shackle as you already mentioned.

Click to expand...

What is the difference between the ZJ coils and the XJ coils? I have the extra weight of an ARB bumper and winch if it makes a difference either way.

GottaBeJeep said:

To fit 32's without trimming, it will be nearly impossible to turn or flex very much at all without chewing your fenders/flares off, especially with a hub conversion kit and little backspacing on the rims. Is your only reservation for not trimming due to the rust, or just that you don't want to cut. If just for rust, you can trim and do it right without causing any increased rust. Busmpstops are also going to be very important for running/flexing 32"+ tires. Check out my writeups on fender trimming and adjusting bumpstops to see if they may help you out:
www.rocklizardfabrications.com/tech_articles.htm

Click to expand...

It is just the rust - having cut vehicles in the past I have seen what it does first hand even when taking the correct precautions. Once that galvanizing coat is pooched the rust starts. Maybe I should move...

GottaBeJeep said:

I would go ahead and get the adjustable uppers if the price difference isn't much. It's just good to have the option available to fine tune everything. As for super ride and superflex, the superflex ride very well since the joint is at the axle end and the rubber bushing is on the frame rail side to help absord everything before it is transmitted to the body. Again, why spend so much money on a great kit to have your flex hindered by going with all bushings in the control arms, when for just a little more, you can have the superflex arms.

Click to expand...

Good points.

GottaBeJeep said:

Hope that helps.

Click to expand...

It sure does.

Thanks!

r@m

Root Moose said:

What is the difference between the ZJ coils and the XJ coils? I have the extra weight of an ARB bumper and winch if it makes a difference either way.

Click to expand...

The difference is the spring rate, and your bumper/winch does make a big difference. The 3.5" ZJ coils will sit the XJ about 1" taller than the 3.5" XJ coils, and the spring rate will work better for heavy bumpers/winches. With that much weight up front, I would say ZJ coils all the way, but Dirk would help more as far as whether to get the 3.5" or 4.5" ZJ coils.

I had a 5.5" lift and 32" tires and didn't trim the sheet metal in front of the front tires. That was a mistake! But then, that was in Moab and after lots o'flexing on the trials there. Even at 7" lift and 32" tires, I still need to trim a little more. However, as they say YMMV.....just depends how flexed up you're going to take it.

As for the drive shaft recommendation, I suggest a Tom Wood custom drive shaft.

Tom

Sounds like you're looking at an RE6130 with DBs and some parts changes. Then again, you said you've read my page, so maybe that's understandable

Tom Wood's driveshaft is a good choice; you can order a full kit (RE6130 or 6200) from most vendors and get credit for deleted parts like the t-case drop and the RE Discos. RE does have a new disco design now that's supposed to be quieter but I haven't seen it yet. Either those or the JKS Quicker Discos would be good choices. Adjustable UCAs are certainly good to allow fine-tuning too, and when inch-itis hits and you decide to go higher it will give you the flexibility to do that.

Edit: Forgot to add - you don't have brakelines listed.

Thanks for all the input guys! Much appreciated.

I'm starting to waffle about tire size again. (argh!)

On the one hand I want to try to minimize fuel consumption and step in height, on the other I'm so close to the RE 5.5HD (short arm) in price/components maybe I should just get that lift and run 33x10.5 tires.

I need this Jeep to serve true daily driver service, including throwing kidlets into their car seats on the rear bench. I wish I knew someone local with either lift...

Opinions?

r@m

You're definitely going to need an SYE, but if you're going for an RE product do not get the hack and tap. Many will tell you it's a great kit for the money, but there are may of us out here who are tired of replacing the flanges when they get loose on the output shaft. I have had to replace 2 so far.

I have heard many say that the Tom Wood's SYE in the same as a hack and tap, but it's not. Tom Wood cuts the shafts shorter than the RE requires. Then he cuts new splines on the shaft. The flange then gets bolted to the output shaft with the inside of the flange setting against the bearing. Because of this the flange is secured at both ends, and not just hanging out there on the shaft.

Go with Tom Wood's and only do it once. It will cost about $125 more than RE H&T with driveshaft, but worth the extra insurance.

Interesting points. I'll look into it.

Thanks!

r@m