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what size hi-lift?

Silverstreak01

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Hometown, NE PA
how big of a lift can you get away with on a 48inch hi lift ? the ease of mounting inside across the back is so much easyer.. im at 3 inch and 2inch shackels but im going up to around 6 front 6.5 out back with 33s will the 48 do the trick>?
 
Silverstreak01 said:
how big of a lift can you get away with on a 48inch hi lift ? the ease of mounting inside across the back is so much easyer.. im at 3 inch and 2inch shackels but im going up to around 6 front 6.5 out back with 33s will the 48 do the trick>?
48's probably good, but have you ever jacked to change a tire with a hi-lift? I only use mine on the trail, and even for tire changes, give me a bottlejack and blocks under the axle any day.
Buck :canada:
 
To much depends on terrain. Unfortunately, you can't always arrange to break while the vehicle is on a nice flat, level, hard surface.

Yes, a 48" is easier to stow and carry, but you really need the long one. Wouldn't it be a shame to tote that 48 incher around for a year or three, and then when you need it you find that it's 2" too short?
 
60 inch is only like $5 more...

mount it on the roof racks... thats where i put mine whenever i go wheeling. other than that it stays in the dorm closit...
DSCF0129.JPG
 
i got the 60" and heres where i mounted it.. it's a trail-only rig though.. otherwise i'd find another home for it... it's really not in my line-of-sight like it appears either..

standard
 
i have the 48" and i am about sol if my sway bar is disconnected, and i have a 3" with a BB added on it. granted i have no place to put the 60" and hte 48 will work, just takes a little creativity some times
 
Ramsey said:
i have the 48" and i am about sol if my sway bar is disconnected, and i have a 3" with a BB added on it. granted i have no place to put the 60" and hte 48 will work, just takes a little creativity some times

Exactly. A 48" is really all that's needed. I've seen/done a few different things on the trail with a 48" that really make a 60 pointless.

With the Lift Mate ( http://www.hi-lift.com/lm-100.htm ) I've seen a wheel get lifted, a block put under the axle, tire changed, and set back down with the Lift Mate.

I've also seen limiting strap anchor locations for the sole purpose of putting a ratchet strap in to hold the axle up while lifting from a rock rail.

If anything PLEASE make sure to get the all-cast (RED) steel version. The stamped ones are just plain unsafe for the kind of stuff we do. My shop won't even sell the black ones for that very reason. :)
 
I have a 60", and I can't tell you how many times I've had to save people because their 48" was too short. You can't depend on someone else all the time if what you have won't cut it.
 
when i was looking i bought the 48" all cast because i could not find a 60" all cast, that was a big deciding factor, besides, that top extra foot has a whole lot less of a load rating. less load rating on a weaker cast stamped highlift does not sound good.

i guess i have to get(or make) a strap for the wheel, that sounds like it would make tire changes a lot easier.
 
ya a 48's better than nothing, but a 60 is better for those few situations you may really need it
 
As for cast vs stamped.... definitley get the cast.

I have a stamped 48" and have used my hi-lift as a winch ( http://www.hi-lift.com/Accessory Pages/ork.htm ) many times both to free up my xj and to pull tree stumps in my back yard. As a result I ovaled out the swivel pin and all of the connecting bolt holes. I fixed it by re-drilling all of the holes and using larger grade 8 bolts, but could have avoided the problem by having the cast version.

If you ever use your hi-lift as a winch you will appreciate having a 60" because you will not have to reset the thing as much as if you have a 48".
 
One each of the 48" flavor and the 60" flavor :)

My 48" is a little bent from something tho. Can't remember what I did to do that. Both are the cast versions.
 
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