does this seem safe for rear tow hooks?

Option A: http://www.jeep-xj.com/hooks.php

Option B: I have a rear tow bar from Wally Mart, but it hangs WAY to low and kills my departure angle. I was looking at it and I can just take out the cross bar (the actual hitch bar) and leave the frame attachment points in. These are connected with 3/16" steel that have two grade eights from the bottom, then inside the frame are square pieces to help distribute the weight and of course locking nuts. Could I just drill a big hole in the attachment points that hang down that the cross bar attaches to (after removing it) and put some D shackles in it? Safe? Comments? It is beefier than the above link for reference.

I was thinking about doing this so when I build my off-road trailer, I can just put the cross bar back in and tow away. I would then have the hitch tow point when I have the trailer connected if I get stuck. But without the trailer, I am loosing too much in departure angle.
thanks

I don't think I would trust option A. It might work fine for a straight pull, but I would think with an angled pull you would be in trouble.

When you say you are gonna "build" a trailer, does that mean you are gonna do any welding? If you have access to a welder, or know someone that does, a simple high clearance bumper with a receiver built in is not that difficult to build. That would be your best bet.

have you looked at a hidden hitch? the only part that hangs down on mine is the actual reciever part that you plug the tounge into.

I disagree. If you use 1/4" steel straps as in Option A and make them longer than the base of the hook, Option A is far stronger than Option B.

Option B sounds like the Reese universal fit hitch. If it only has two mounting bolts on each side, and you remove the drawbar, you're going to be putting a huge amount of eccentric load on those two bolts and the little swuate plates inside the frame. I wouldn't do it.

Eagle said:

I disagree. If you use 1/4" steel straps as in Option A and make them longer than the base of the hook, Option A is far stronger than Option B.

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BTW, option A (or a better variation of it) was available from factory but it was an L shaped bracked that had a side reinforcement for the side pull and it attached with three bolts to the vehicle and then 2 bolts attached the towhook to the bracket.

Kejtar said:

BTW, option A (or a better variation of it) was available from factory but it was an L shaped bracked that had a side reinforcement for the side pull and it attached with three bolts to the vehicle and then 2 bolts attached the towhook to the bracket.

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yup just took mine off (the rear one) and put in my drawtite. The only disadvantage of the drawtite is the 2" square that kills departure angle, and i personaly would rather hit that than my gas tank... so im glad to be hitting that.

i have the bracket, ill try to take some pictures later today... we'll see

people are selling them in the for sale froum all the time when they get a tow hitch or a custom bumper that they dont need them anymore.
dig in the junkyard... my cherokee came with one stock..

Eagle: Would that be OEM part #52000712 ?

About the trailer, I am picking up a harbor freight frame and building off of that but I will be pulling some yota axles or old someones spare D35 that they are tossings instead of the one that comes with it so I can put the same size tires on it that are on the XJ (with appropiate lift) It will be kinda like one of the old school tear drop trailers but only 40.5" x 48". It will fold out to make a tent (when folded out, the length will be about 6' b/c I'm only 5'10" and the sides will have swing out tables for a stove and eating area, some type of rain canapy, a honda generator, 2 spare gas tanks, flood lights for night, aux battery, a hitch to attach a crapper bucket, and finally plumbing that will connect to the XJ for running a nice hot shower.

This trailer won't be for the Con, just going in back woods on old fire roads with my son when he is old enough to go and find good native rainbow trout and get away from the city.

I will have my two dogs with me (one weighs 100lbs) so they get the rear cargo area in the XJ. I do have a Con Ferr roof rack, but that is for lighter stuff like dry food in coolers, clothes, etc. Since the trips will be for a week at a time with no stores around for miles, I have to pack alot and DO NOT want it all on my roof or weged inside with the boy and 2 dogs on long trips.

Oh rambled, no I do not have a welder but I teach at a high school and the AG dept does all my welding for me. They are making a nice set of rock rails for me at this very moment all for 50 bucks and I don't have to do the work. Win-Win situation, students get to do projects while observed by the master welder and I get XJ stuff for CHEAP.

Dan

I don't think option A will hold. A flying tow hook can wreck stuff and hurt or kill people. Look at my page for a picture of the factory front tow hook mounts.
http://hometown.aol.com/xjtim/index1.html
They are re-inforced to the radiator bulkhead with another piece. A second brace that is not shown goes to bottom of the the unibody frame rail to control twisting forces. The factory rear mount is also a stronger looking item. It mounts to the cross member behind the bumper and also to the unibody frame rail. I removed mine ( its for sale) and put in an XJ specific receiver mount and the bar is 1/2 inch below the bumper. I clang the extended shackles about the same time as the hitch. The local junkyard sometimes has the factory hooks and also factory receiver hitches for cheap. Also I made some D ring clevis mounts that replace the tow hooks, no more droppped tow ropes.

dandecicco said:

Eagle: Would that be OEM part #52000712 ?

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Would what be OEM part number 52000712? If you're referring to the stock rear hook bracket, it consists of two parts. I have no idea if that part number is one of the two, but it certainly isn't for both because DaimlerChrysler does't work that way.

About the trailer, I am picking up a harbor freight frame and building off of that but I will be pulling some yota axles or old someones spare D35 that they are tossings instead of the one that comes with it so I can put the same size tires on it that are on the XJ (with appropiate lift) It will be kinda like one of the old school tear drop trailers but only 40.5" x 48".

Click to expand...

If you are buying one of those small trailer kits, that poor thing will be completely and totally overwhelmed if you try to stuff a Dana 35 axle under it. The axle will weight twice as much as the trailer. You'd be far better off going to the Northern Tool and Equipment catalog and buying a pair of 5-bolt hubs for the same axle that comes with the trailer. Their 5-bolt hubs use the 5x4.5" bolt circle.

You'd be far better off going to the Northern Tool and Equipment catalog and buying a pair of 5-bolt hubs for the same axle that comes with the trailer. Their 5-bolt hubs use the 5x4.5" bolt circle.

That sounds like a better option, I was just throwing ideas out while the brain was working. Your idea is much better. thanks Eagle