4:56 or 4:88

I have 7" front 7 1\2" rear of lift with 33 bfg AT'S. currently i have 4:10 gearing and a lockright locker in my rear 8.25. I'm planning on maybe 35" tires. It is my daily driver for 4 days a week. Any feedback on if 35's are worth it. If so should I go 4:56 gearing or 4:88?

can't do 4.88s in an 8.25.

Hasta

Since you've got the 8.25" you are limited to 4.56...if you get a new axle, 4.88s would be far better with 35s

I'd go 5.13s for 35s but you have an 8.25 and a, I assume, Dana30.

hologram said:

I have 7" front 7 1\2" rear of lift with 33 bfg AT'S. currently i have 4:10 gearing and a lockright locker in my rear 8.25. I'm planning on maybe 35" tires. It is my daily driver for 4 days a week. Any feedback on if 35's are worth it. If so should I go 4:56 gearing or 4:88?

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Go with 4.88 gears if you regear, you will be happy in the long run with these. However, inorder to do this you will need to get rid of your 8.25 rear axle which only goes down to 4.56 gears. If you are keeping your 8.25, which isn't a bad rear axle especially if you have the 97'+ 29 spline shafts, you should be o.k. with 4.56 gears. I have 4.56 gears in my 91' xj with 35" mtrs and it is o.k., but if I could I would have went with 4.88's. I had a 29 spline 8.25, but then upgraded to a xj dana 44 with a detroit so I got it with 4.56 gears because that is what it came with and it matched my front rev dana 30. 35's are nice, but 33's will get the job done too and be a better dd or highway vehicle if you chose that. My 91' is just my trail jeep that I drive to and from the trail, so the 35's aren't that unbearable. For you I'd keep the 33's and if you still want deeper gears then the 4.56 will be nice. I have 4.88 gears with 33" tsl radials on my 94' yj with a 4.3L chevy vortec and 4L60E tranny and love the power this gives. This too, isn't my dd so it is tolerable and also for sale. :laugh:
Troy

Dana 35 front. would 4:56 be enouph for a dd with 35"s or should I wait and get axles first before 35's?

hologram said:

Dana 35 front. would 4:56 be enouph for a dd with 35"s or should I wait and get axles first before 35's?

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Unless it's a custom, that'll be a Dana30 front. 4.88 max

Dana 30 front I guess. I'm just getting into it. sorry. What about a ford 9" in rear? I could get one of my brother.

hologram said:

Dana 30 front I guess. I'm just getting into it. sorry. What about a ford 9" in rear? I could get one of my brother.

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The ford 9" is a good axle and can be built from mild to wild. What year is the ford 9" from your bro? Out of what? The early bronco ford 9" has only 28 spline which is weak and you should upgrade it to at least 31 spline shafts. Try to get a full size ford 9" which has a stronger housing and 31 spline shafts. You can build a ford 9" with 35 or 40 spline shafts for the most demanding of applications.
Troy

My bro's is an 1985 full size bronco. I think it is the nogiler (sp?) 9. what ever that means.

The 9" is way good. You are just getting started and have 7ish" of lift?

hologram said:

My bro's is an 1985 full size bronco. I think it is the nogiler (sp?) 9. what ever that means.

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If that is a ford 9" it is good as it will have a nice strong housing, 31 spline axle shafts and be full-width for more stability. The ford 8.8 came too somewhere in there in the full size f-150 and bronco. It isn't a bad axle, but does have 28 spline shafts. I would suggest getting the ford 9" if you can and either running it full-width or cutting it down to 62" or so. Also for a nice strong axle that is easy to find and has nice disc brakes, get a 95'+ ford 8.8 from a Ford Explorer or Mercury Mountaineer.

evilpresence said:

The 9" is way good. You are just getting started and have 7ish" of lift?

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Yep. I know what I want it to do in the end, so I didn't want to buy and re-buy parts. I did alot a research on lifts to deside that lift. Rusty's 6" with 1 inch spacer up front and 1 1\2" shackles in rear. It flexes good. I'm just getting started on the REAL gut of what makes it go anywhere I want.

if you want to regear now get 4.56's and run them with your 33's on road and have some 35's for offroad so you still get better mileage on road and you can just use 4low offroad

Ramsey said:

if you want to regear now get 4.56's and run them with your 33's on road and have some 35's for offroad so you still get better mileage on road and you can just use 4low offroad

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Good point. I have 31 TrXuS MTs for the trails and 31 Dueler ATs for the street. I'll be going to 33 TrXuS MTs when these are shot.

Ramsey said:

if you want to regear now get 4.56's and run them with your 33's on road and have some 35's for offroad so you still get better mileage on road and you can just use 4low offroad

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You need to consider the type of wheeling you'll most often be doing. Living in Utah, I suppose you'll be playing on the slickrock primarily. Yes? You'll appreciate low gears - the lower the better. If on the other hand you lived in a place where mudbogging is the norm (like Louisiana maybe?), ultralow gears are not what you want - tire speed is. Guys running a mix of trails find happiness lies somewhere in between. I love my 4.88s and 33s because that combo works very well on the hard stuff, in the gooey stuff, snaking through the trees, and even on (choke) pavement! You'll find that with the right gears, lockers and armor, you can go just about anywhere you ought to be trying.
Keep an eye on your steering components. Running that much lift on stock steering will wear out and break parts fast.

you got some good points armstrong, i did not even look to see where he was. what i run on i get away with 3.55 and 31's, i just have to use 4 low fore everything. no experience on slick rock though so i guess i cant really help