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Home made transfer case drop kit,Question?

S

sivrt

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Arendal, Norway
Hi, I was going to make my own transfer case drop kit when I noticed that there are different bolts that holds the crossmember to the uniframe.
On both sides there are one standard 10mm bolt and one 10mm studbolt with nut.

My plan was to remove these studbolts somehow and install longer standard bolts and add a 15-20mm square iron with two holes in it to drop the case..

Question: How can I remove these studs and just install longer standard 10mm bolts and is it possible?

BTW I have the RE 6020 3,5" Super ride kit and have axle degree shims on 4 degrees. Rides on 31" MT/R tires.
I have no SYE/Driveshaft mods but I don`t have any vibes before 100 km/h (60mph)

Please help, going on a holiday with my rig in 2 days and I ought to have it fixed by then..
 
Double Nut them off. Put two nuts on the stud, tighten them againsts each other. Now turn the lower nut in a counter clockwise direction, the nut on top should hold tight and allow you to just unscrew the stud. If both the nuts spin and the stud doesn't tighten them together some more.
 
So what you're telling me is you want to LOWER your T case so it'll be the same distance from the ground as it was BEFORE you lifted your Jeep? I hope this is just a temporary fix until you can remedy the problem correctly. If not, you'll need to fabricate a custom cross member that'll cradle your T case in it's lowered position without losing or possibly even gaining clearance

PS- Spacers will apply added stress to the bolts by increasing leverage
 
I couldn't get the suds out without putting so much pressure on them that I thought the nuts inside the frame might come loose so I made 2 aluminum spacers with 10mm clearance holes in them and 2 that were threaded 10mm x 1.5 all the through with flats on each side to tighten them. I used loctite on the studs and used short (around 5/8") bolts from the skid plate side. Mind you it's just a temporary fix until I can save up the $$$ for the SYE and driveshaft but it works. I have checked them often and everything is still tight.
 
Will - a light upward tap or two on the stud while holding tension should let you get that stud out. I even had to tighten mine slightly to break it loose but they come out after application of sufficient quantities of PB Blaster
 
MistWolf said:
So what you're telling me is you want to LOWER your T case so it'll be the same distance from the ground as it was BEFORE you lifted your Jeep?
Click to expand...
Odd, I didn't read that he was going to put a 5" drop on his tcase. He's running 31's, which are 3 to 4" inches taller (diameter) than stock, or 1-1/2 to 2" larger radius . . . as well as a 3.5" suspension lift. So 3.5" for the lift and 1.5" for the tires, equals 5 inches that the rig is sitting higher above the ground than stock. I understand that tcase drops are not the best fix, but how in the world is the standard 1" drop the same as a 5" suspension/tire lift?
 
if the studs dont move with the double nut method put some heat on the stud ( propane torch) good and hot and they should back right out
 
The t-case drop kit of 1" isn't meant to totally compensate. It's meant to bring the drivetrain into closer alignment and reduce the potential for driveline vibes. It's related to the "standard" rule that above 3.5" of lift requires a SYE. If you drop the t-case 1" with a 4.5" lift, you essentially are changing the driveline angles the same as a 3.5" lift. In theory.

A "good" t-case drop will not effect the ground clearance at all. It will drop the case by creating a shallower crossmember. Most kits are indeed washers, which seems wacky to me.

I had to use the heat trick on mine last month when I removed the crossmember...twisted the stud in half using the double-nut method first, though!

-Rich
 
Colorado_XJ said:
A "good" t-case drop will not effect the ground clearance at all. It will drop the case by creating a shallower crossmember. Most kits are indeed washers, which seems wacky to me.
-Rich
Click to expand...

This would gain clearance under the cross member but the clearance under the transfercase itself would still be 1" lower. Not a lot of gain there as the transfercase is still the lowest point so how would a higher cross member be an advantage?
 
I know that this solution will affect my ground clearance but I think that with this drop plus the 4 degree shims I should have minimum vibes.
I have no plans to install the SYE kit because it is too expensive here in Norway.
But if I lower the transfer case a little less than 1" (20mm) on this 3,5" setup, the driveline should be like on most 2,5 " lifts.(where you don`t need SYE`s)
I have had a 2" BB before this RE kit and there was no vibes at any speed, therefor I hope that everything will be alright when I have lowered the case.

Thanks for many good answers...
 
What rear axle do you have? From people I have talked to , and my personal experience, if you have a D35 than you are less likely to has severe driveline vibes. The 8.25 rear axle has a longer pinion, and therefore a shorter driveshaft. This makes the angles worse and is more prone to vibes or slip yoke/DS binding.

When I had my 3.5" lift on the rear sat a little higher and I ended up using a TC drop. I later swapped in 4* shims on the leafs and removed the TC drop once the rear had settled. No vibes.
 
Gojeep said:
This would gain clearance under the cross member but the clearance under the transfercase itself would still be 1" lower. Not a lot of gain there as the transfercase is still the lowest point so how would a higher cross member be an advantage?
Click to expand...

First, where did I talk about a higher x-member? Second, you wouldn't gain a single bit of clearance with the drop, you would stay the same. Third, the reason he asked about the drop (I thought) was how it affected the driveline in regards to a lift. I was just explaining that it helps the drivetrain out by reducing angles and maybe vibes. That's all. I never said, or implied, that it helped ground clearance. If you look around or are creative (with access to a welder) you can make a t-case drop x-member that has a skid and retains the factory ground clearance or better (at the x-member location). It does it all in one. Sure, it drops the case, but it skids it as well. I know, I know...if there was no drop in the first place, that small section of undercarriage would be an inch or so higher. But with a sturdy skid and some momentum, you slide right off most anything that you might hang up on in the first place.

Just some more of my pennies.

-Rich
 
I have the D35C axle.. And I`m driving with 4 degree shims but still has vibes at 60 mph.. Hopes everything will be ok when I put on a 3/4" square tubing as a TC drop shim..
 
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