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tire wear question

younggun96

NAXJA Forum User
Location
wooster,ohio
Hey any of you tire guys out there know what causes a tire to cup on the inside? I have been struggling with a case of DW and have replaced the trac bar as some of you suggested, replaced u joints and axle shaft u joints and still a terrible wobble, especially going into an off ramp on the highway or hitting an unfriendly bump in the pavement at 55!!!! I was checking things out again tonight and noticed my 31 x 12.50 x 15 pro comps are cupping badly again up front and I just rotated them less than 1k ago. Any ideas? Thanks for the input
 
younggun96 said:
Hey any of you tire guys out there know what causes a tire to cup on the inside? I have been struggling with a case of DW and have replaced the trac bar as some of you suggested, replaced u joints and axle shaft u joints and still a terrible wobble, especially going into an off ramp on the highway or hitting an unfriendly bump in the pavement at 55!!!! I was checking things out again tonight and noticed my 31 x 12.50 x 15 pro comps are cupping badly again up front and I just rotated them less than 1k ago. Any ideas? Thanks for the input


Have you checked your toe? How much lift?
 
Anytime DW hits at 55mph (52-57) its your tires. They could be out of balance or a tire could be bad (out of round).

Just like when your not lifted and you get a shimmy at the same speed, when you lift it cause that little shimmy to turn into full blown piss your paints DW.
 
ZachMan said:
Anytime DW hits at 55mph (52-57) its your tires. They could be out of balance or a tire could be bad (out of round).

Just like when your not lifted and you get a shimmy at the same speed, when you lift it cause that little shimmy to turn into full blown piss your paints DW.


Well my piss your pants DW was cured by toe and Control arm Drop brackets. Had nothing to do with wheel balancing. Also It start at a particular speed, then hit a bump and then whammo.

Tire wear sounds like toe to me.
 
I am no expert at measuring toe, but when I measure I come up with about an 1/8" or so of toe out is that to much? I am running a 3" lift with some 1 1/2" spacers to help make up for the sag in the 2 yr old springs. Don't ever try to go cheap up front wwith Rough Country springs it will only cause you headaches in the long run......Thanks for the input.
 
younggun96 said:
I am no expert at measuring toe, but when I measure I come up with about an 1/8" or so of toe out is that to much? I am running a 3" lift with some 1 1/2" spacers to help make up for the sag in the 2 yr old springs. Don't ever try to go cheap up front wwith Rough Country springs it will only cause you headaches in the long run......Thanks for the input.
It depends on where you're measuring from. 1/8" is horrible if you're measuring from the front and back of the rotor.

ANY toe out is undesirable. A good alignment has a little toe in. Have it aligned.
 
What cuases too much wear on the inside? Too much Caster?
 
I found this on the web about causes of tire wear. I hope it helps.


Shoulder wear, which can be caused by under-inflation or hard cornering. Many shredded rubber tires seen along highways are the result of either under inflated tires, running too long and too hot, or from severe misalignment.

Center tread wear, which usually indicates over-inflation. Over inflation results when a vehicle owner tries to compensate for a slow leak by over inflating the tire to make it stay up longer.


Cupping can be caused by an unbalanced tire condition, faulty wheel bearings, loose parts, fatigued springs or weak shock absorbers. Check the condition of the shock by forcefully bouncing the front end of the car several times and releasing it on the down stroke. Failure of the vehicle to settle after two strokes suggests worn shocks or struts.


Camber or toe wear indicates misalignment due to loose, worn or bent steering linkage components. Many camber and toe wear problems can be traced to spring fatigue, which causes the vehicle's frame to ride closer to the road. Once the vehicle is below the manufacturer's height specifications, it is not possible to achieve the correct camber change designed into the suspension without replacing the springs. The vehicle also experiences excessive toe change as the suspension travels through jounce and rebound, again causing abnormal tire wear.


Diagonal scuffing and cupping across the face on rear tires signals problems with toe. Diagonal tread wear or cupping on rear tires is caused when the direction the vehicle's wheels are heading is not in line with the geometric center line of the vehicle. When this condition occurs, front-wheel steering can be affected and lead to tire slip or loss of traction or control. (Note: The wear pattern that develops on rear tires from improper toe will vary depending on tread design. Wear patterns from rear-wheel misalignment may resemble cupping on tires with highway tread design and diagonal scuffing on tires with an all season tread pattern.
 
Here's another, more thourough answer off this site: http://www.alldata.com/techtips/2002/20020826a.html



'97 Ford F150, Tire Cupping



Q: My '97 Ford F150 extended cab with 97k miles is on its second set of tires. The second set of tires began cupping about 20k miles ago. A four wheel alignment was done with the new tires @ 60k miles. Tires are rotated faithfully every 6000-8000 miles. Could my shocks (original) be the problem? How do you know when your shocks are shot?

A: If the tires are correctly balanced and the steering and suspension components are tight then it is very possible that the shocks on your vehicle need replacing. Shocks or struts for that matter do not have to be leaking to be bad. They can even pass the bounce test and still be bad. The valving, piston and cylinder inside a shock works hard. This hard work causes heat and the heat causes the oil in the shock to break down. This results in scarring of the cylinder and piston which causes a reduction in the absorbing abilities of the shock/strut. The valving and piston can be damaged from the vehicle's suspension bottoming out, like hitting a pot hole. The internal damage can never be seen. But when the shock/strut is working the hardest it can no longer perform. The result can be tire cupping problems. If all else is right install new shocks on all 4 corners of your vehicle. After 90+k your truck deserves it. I'll bet a coffee you'll feel the difference.
 
ChuckD said:
Do you have the specs from the last time? And have there been any changes in lift hieght since then. If not post them up, maybe we can see if your alignment place it doing it right.


don't have any specs from the last two alignments but I am going to a friend's shop this time to have it aligned so I will let you know what he finds. No changes in lift since last alignment still the same old 3" lift...

Thanks again for all the input!
 
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