Rocky Road Track Bar ques?

I have an 88 limited with a 3" lift on it. I just purchased a RR Track Bar, and went to install it, but it seems like it is almost too long even with the lock nut and the TRE screwed all the way in (moving the axle more than the 9/16" I have heard it needs to move when goin up 3"). The website says that it will work with a 1"-7" lift though. I was just wondering if anyone has come across this...? and should I put it in without the locknut on the TRE if it seems the correct length without it (TRE would be snugly screwed all the way in to the bar)? any tips or hints would be great....
also.... just installed new shocks with track bar and still got one case of reduced death wobbles when I hit smallish pothole around 60mph... toe is set at 0 and i believe caster is very close to 6 degreees, tires balanced when aligned. the only thing i can think of is maybe a balljoint or TRE on steering (wear on inside of left front tire, and occassional clunk turning at slow speeds) any guesseS????????

Never have used a RR track bar but no way should you run it without a lock nut. It's pretty easy to tell once you have it on if it is too long or to short. All you have to do after install is measure from the inside of each front tire to a common point on the frame. If the passenger side tire is farther away from the frame than the driver side the track bar is extended out too much. I run a teraflex that alows you to adjust after install. Does RR track bar setup like that or do you have to drop the top mount? If not it will be a PIA to adjust and remeasure.

Your death wobble can be a bunch of different things, many threads out there about it. If you are hearing a clunk occassionally there is a good change your lower mount on the axle is wollowed out. With the track bar off, put in the bolt and see is there is excessive movement in the hole. Other areas to look are the upper track bar mount if it is not tightly mounted to the frame, tie rod ends going bad, stabalizer going bad. Take your pick!

if there is play in the lower mount, what is the procedure (if any) for fixing it? i will have to find some points to measure on the frame to see if the axle is centered, any suggestions on that? the flares might work, but I havent found a level surface to drop a plumb yet.

I had the same problem with mine from Rocky Road. I'm at about 4" and it is just slightly too long - I just lived with it.

You could try looking for a thinner jam nut, or grind yours down slightly.

I recommend you keep a real close eye on the tie rod end on the track bar. Mine failed after two months with very little mild wheeling - mostly street use on my DD. I had a clunk due to this. Maybe there is play in the track bar TRE to begin with. Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you inspect all the steering and suspension components.

I would set toe in at 1/32" to 1/16". This seemed to add stability for me. Also double check your control arm bushings.

how do I check the control arms bushings? prybar and check for movement method? thanks for all the tips and I will definately keep an eye on the TRE.... did you replace with same or is there a better option out there? would the thinner jam nut pose any kind of safety or functionality issue?
thanks again

To check the control arm bushing, I would just grab the control arm with channellocks and see if they twist very much. They will normally give some, but should not be very loose. You could also see if the rubber is cracked.

A thinner jam nut should not pose problems. The jam nut just keeps the threads from twisting - it does not contribute to the structural integrity of the track bar.

There are better track bars - particularly the ones that use a joint on the frame end similar to the joint on the axle end of the track bar. These come with a replacement frame bracket and cost in the $200+ range.

I've ordered a quality Moog replacement tie rod end for my track bar. I'll see how it goes.

well, chalk it another TRE up to Rocky Road, it was so sloppy it was hoppin up and down about 1/4" when the wheel was turned, that and my pass side TRE was shot also, maybe now my shakiness will go away a little... does anyone know if the DANA/Perfect Circle TRE are any good? thats all I could find to get me by...

It took you 5 months to find the problem?

Dirk Pitt said:

It took you 5 months to find the problem?

Click to expand...

and if it did at least he found it.

I have an update also: the second TRE on my track bar has now failed. This one was a Moog. I've wheeled with it maybe 4X.

I believe now that the use of a TRE on a track bar is just a bad design and a bad idea. I don't think a tie rod end is designed to operate at the angles you get on a track bar at full droop.

I have an order in for a Rubicon Express heavy duty + frame mount.