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I'm thinking about doing it, and although there have been several posts on the topic of installations, I am curious if anyone has had problems with pinion strength after using an RE SYE (hack n tap). My jeep's a DD, hence hoping to rid myself of vibes, but when i am offroad, I mostly do mild wheeling, and run 31's with a 4" lift. Any thoughts about strength? Should i be concerned at all?
There you go, starting a religious discussion......
RE's hack-n-tap kit works at the tcase, not at the axle end. The pinion isn't changed by the kit, so that should be a non-issue.
As far as strength of the kit itself, having watched Rick Norman grenade a pinion yoke coming out of Mickey's Hot Tub (he had the RE kit,) I suspect it's actually better than a lot of people give it credit for. Getting the flange mounted securely to the tcase output shaft is probably the biggest issue.
I hate to say this... but do a search. If you do so, you will come upon this topic being discussed quite often. The thing that sold me on doing it was the fact that Farmer Matt is running the hack and tap on his rig for the past couple years.
Sorry I meant the transfer case output shaft not the differential pinion (ie the splined part that you cut off and drill into, not the unchanged portions of the kit...)
If you install it correctly its plenty strong. I run a 4.7 stroker, 5.13 gears and its a trailer queen , so I beat the crap out of it and it has yet to fail...4 years and counting... I'm sure you'll start the arguement on here that its not, but I'm just telling you from real trail experience not webwheeling.But who knows, maybe I've just been lucky. I've broke several warns shafts in my d44 and 2 CTM joints , but have yet to tear the hack-n-tap up.
I hate to say this... but do a search. If you do so, you will come upon this topic being discussed quite often. The thing that sold me on doing it was the fact that Farmer Matt is running the hack and tap on his rig for the past couple years.
Actually, I only posted the query because my searches only resulted in information about where to buy them and how to install them. I could not find any posts on strength. I will keep checking though, thanks.
ive said it before and ill say it again, my friend is quite fond of baking off 40" tires on the street with a dana 60 and his 231 hack-n-tap. has never givin him problems
Well - I sheared a 242 t-case main shaft in half and am still using the same seal housing and flange with my hack at tap kit - happy and no leaks since 1998...
The Hack & Tap has nothing to do with strength. The real question is how strong is the stock np231 tail shaft. My way of thinking is that if you break the stock tailshaft in a 231 you need to upgrade T-cases. By the time you upgrade the 231 to the point where it's strong enough to not worry about you could have bought an atlas or flipped a 300 over. A chain driven 231 will never be as strong as either one of those cases no matter how you build it or what you upgrade. I used the RE kit because it was a quick, dirty, & cheap way to solve the slip yoke problem with the full understanding that if I broke something or when I felt I needed to, I would swap in a different case. I've been running it for several years now & I have yet to have a problem with either the kit or the stock t-case.
The Hack & Tap has nothing to do with strength. The real question is how strong is the stock np231 tail shaft. My way of thinking is that if you break the stock tailshaft in a 231 you need to upgrade T-cases. By the time you upgrade the 231 to the point where it's strong enough to not worry about you could have bought an atlas or flipped a 300 over. A chain driven 231 will never be as strong as either one of those cases no matter how you build it or what you upgrade. I used the RE kit because it was a quick, dirty, & cheap way to solve the slip yoke problem with the full understanding that if I broke something or when I felt I needed to, I would swap in a different case. I've been running it for several years now & I have yet to have a problem with either the kit or the stock t-case.
Crap, that was exactly what i was afraid to hear. What kind of motor, gears, tires you running, and what kind of surface were you on, and how stuck was the other guy? Actually I guess its good to only hear one story of failure amongst several testamonials about how strong it is. So far, i have mostly heard that one can kick the crap out of it and in MOST cases it will hold.
I was running 3.55s and 35s it was on a hill and he had to go up and I was trying to pull him there it is a really hard situation to explain but I dug huge holes in the hill and I did a little yank fell back in the wholes on full throttle and boom goodbye output shaft. It really screwed me to because when the shaft breaks the bearings dont support the shaft anymore so there is no front or rear wheel drive that is the only time I got towed home.
And thats one of the reasons it broke,proper gearing will reduce the load on the drivetrain.Also dont forget that the HD SYE kits also reduce driveline angles(less wear and tear)!
