I am planning on doing an over the knuckle steering, what is a direct replacement upgrade for the rod ends? How hard is it to install 1 ton rod ends? How much are they? Is there a beefier drag link I can use becuase I've gone through 2 of them already and I already know I have to modify the stock one to go over the knuckle. Any comments welcome. Thanks Jeff CamoXJ btw, 96XJ and I would rather build my own then buy a kit. Or is there a kit that I can get some ideas from.
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Over the knuckle steering upgrade ?'s
- Thread starter giranger
- Start date
flexj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Manheim Pa
Jeff, are you running a 30? If so there are mods that need to be made before flipping the TREs. I've had Rusty's kit, didn't care for it. and am now running Bulletproof steering.
dennisuello
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Reno, Nevada
do not forget you'll have to modify the trackbar axle mounting point to reduce the angle, so it matches the angle of the draglink.
BillR
Toy Jeep driver!
- Location
- Flagstaff, AZ
You can also use the bushing from Goferit. It only flips the driver's side, but the passanger side doesn't hang that low anyway. It also uses the stock TREs.
I was looking at Goferit's bushings. He said I would have to rework the stock draglink which I can do. It does accept stock rod ends. I was hoping to upgrade these to HD ones. This is a D30 also. What would I have to do to the Trackbar bracket on the axle end? I would like to just get 1 ton rod ends if I can, I know they are bigger end that goes into the knuckle but what about the threaded end that screws into the tie rod/drag link? What vehicles can I get these off of if I can? thanks Jeff CamoXJ
BillR
Toy Jeep driver!
- Location
- Flagstaff, AZ
I bought the bushing and drilled out a spare knuckle I had. The bushing's been tack-welded in, and I'm just waiting to get the swaybar mount extended and delivery of my new tie rod to get everything installed. I'm only doing the driver's side, and I hadn't heard anything about working the drag link.giranger said:
I'm not worried about the swaybar links, dont run them. The guy at Goferit said someone cut off the draglink end at the tire end and welded on dom tubing with treaded insert and used a rod end so you can install it in the upper portion of the knuckle. That way it is kinda adjustable. Hope this makes sense. Give me your email addy and I can email you the pics he emailed me. Jeff CamoXJ
BillR
Toy Jeep driver!
- Location
- Flagstaff, AZ
Jeff-
PM'd you for pics.
Thanks.
PM'd you for pics.
Thanks.
Here's mine:
Its 1-1/4" DOM with heims at all ends except for the pitman arm(it was already drilled out for 1 ton ends, so I just left it)
The knuckles were drilled out with a 5/8 bit. All 5/8 bolts for hardware.
The trackbar mount does need to be raised at the axle end also. I purchased a new coil perch from RE and welded the new mount to it. I believe ORGS (now JKS?) has a bolt on bracket to raise the trackbar.
I bought most everything from Spidertrax. They were real helpful on the phone figuring out what I needed.
I haven't had to even tighten it up in almost a year. It works good.
It's really not that bad if you have some fab skills and a welder.
Lemme know if you want more info. I will be doing it again soon on Flexys rig.
Rick
Its 1-1/4" DOM with heims at all ends except for the pitman arm(it was already drilled out for 1 ton ends, so I just left it)
The knuckles were drilled out with a 5/8 bit. All 5/8 bolts for hardware.
The trackbar mount does need to be raised at the axle end also. I purchased a new coil perch from RE and welded the new mount to it. I believe ORGS (now JKS?) has a bolt on bracket to raise the trackbar.
I bought most everything from Spidertrax. They were real helpful on the phone figuring out what I needed.
I haven't had to even tighten it up in almost a year. It works good.
It's really not that bad if you have some fab skills and a welder.
Lemme know if you want more info. I will be doing it again soon on Flexys rig.
Rick
Rick, is this rick norman? If so whats up man? I like your setup. Dont have the $300 bones to blow on this, I have all the fab skills, welder and anything else I need to make this setup. You gonna be at the next cleanup and I can take some pics of your setup? Later Jeff CamoXJ
myjeepsbigger
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Illinois
Doesn't work too bad for junk.
thompson97
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- harrisonburg, va
myjeepsbigger said:
Doesn't work too bad for junk.
are you running 15" wheels? if so, did you have any clearance issues on the passenger side? how long hae you been running that setup? i have been thinking of the same thing for a while, but have heard many question the strength of the tie-rod/drag link being on one bolt. leverage issues? play in steering?
NCSUcherokee
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Carolina
Rick XTRM- could you email me some info on your setup? i like the way that looks and plan on doing OTN this summer
[email protected]
thanks man
[email protected]
thanks man
myjeepsbigger
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Illinois
thompson97 said:
Indeed, 15x8 ARE's. No clearance issues. Don't know how long for sure, quite a while. I've not had any trouble with it at all.... and yes, it does get the snot beat out of it. Granted, there aren't many rocks around here, but it does get it's fair amount of trail abuse. Also, there is no play in the steering. Believe it or not, but it actually steers better than the stock setup did on the lifted rig.
kirby
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- South Weber
What setup are you actually running? Tube thickness and rod ends? Also it looks like the rod ends are welded on are they? What type of spacer did you put between the two heim joints?
myjeepsbigger said:
myjeepsbigger
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Illinois
kirby said:
1.25 tube, .120 wall (I think...it's been a while since I put it together), there are weld in-threaded bungs (one LH thread, one RH) that the rod ends are screwed in to. The spacer is home-made from some 5/8 id stock that I had laying around.
I did this style:
I can't post a pic of MY setup (i'm at work) used 1 tone TRE's had to retaper both knuckles from the top and deepen the taper on the pitman arm. Had to relocate the sway bar links. Also you'll need to have deeper backspaced wheels. Factory wheels won't work. 4.5" should be plenty though to clear.
Got my links built by Tim Shaker at http://www.shakerbuilt.com
he should already have the lengths etc for a lifted XJ setup.
I can't post a pic of MY setup (i'm at work) used 1 tone TRE's had to retaper both knuckles from the top and deepen the taper on the pitman arm. Had to relocate the sway bar links. Also you'll need to have deeper backspaced wheels. Factory wheels won't work. 4.5" should be plenty though to clear.
Got my links built by Tim Shaker at http://www.shakerbuilt.com
he should already have the lengths etc for a lifted XJ setup.
