• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Project Long- Arm Complete! (pics)

W

WhiteXJMax

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Littleton, CO
Took about a week.. with my shop time.. tell me what you think
later, Max
IMG_3446.jpg

IMG_3444.jpg

IMG_3442.jpg

The XJ..

IMG_3448.jpg
 
Looks good and stout to me. Really thinking about a system like that in the rear. Looks like it could be so simple..........
 
Nice and simple. Should work well for you. Check your welds occasionally. I'm not trying to bust your cajones, but I fit and weld for a living and you have some severe undercutting on your UCA tabs, and a few other areas that may lack sufficient penetration. Keep an eye on the welded stuff for cracking and weld failure and keep practicing. Otherwise, good execution.
Dann
 
Last edited:
I'm certainly not trying to bust you either.......

but your welder is a 120 volt machine, isn't it?

if not, it can get hotter than that.....

I'd crank it up and re-hit those welds.

otherwise, nice job!
 
Your rear DS looks thin, what brand is it?
Also not criticizing, just wondering.
 
Dann said:
Nice and simple. Should work well for you. Check your welds occasionally. I'm not trying to bust your cajones, but I fit and weld for a living and you have some severe undercutting on your UCA tabs, and a few other areas that may lack sufficient penetration. Keep an eye on the welded stuff for cracking and weld failure and keep practicing. Otherwise, good execution.
Dann
Click to expand...

I just started welding about three months ago and was wondering what 'undercutting' is. ?

Burley
 
Undercutting is when your base metal or weldment gets washed into the weld leaving a concave or cut away appearance at the weld to weldment or base metal junction(s). It is usually caused by improper heat, speed, or insufficient filler metal. When welding metals of differing thickness, concentrate your arc on the thickest component to be welded and work the arc into the thinner metal quickly at a steady speed with out allowing the arc to wash away material from the thinner component. Hope this makes sense, because I am a lousy teacher. Dann
 
Is no one going to comment on his scary looking welds to the unibody and his lack of cross-bracing from frame rail to frame rail?? Maybe it's just me, but I wouldn't trust my life on those brackets that attach to the frame. The tabs that are welded to the brackets look decent, but the brackets to the frame look downright scary to me. Also doesn't look like any of the CA tabs are boxed. I would think that boxing them would reduce the chances of them folding over sideways. Are my concerns legitimate? or am I talkin out my a$$ here?

Ary

P.S. To the original poster, I'm not tryin to bag on your work, I think you've got a good start, just need some help here and there. Then again, I've never built a set of long arms, just armor and stuff, so my comments are all theoretical.
 
Well actually those were covered in my first post. Not specifically, just all the welding in general. I was trying to not be an a**hole, and not to totally rain on his parade. The lack of sufficient penetration applies directly to the CA tabs on the frame brackets. The weld is just sitting on the surface, like a line of caulk. Looks nice, but if you'll notice, the edges of the weld are rolled in and quite distinct from the weldment and base metal. Notice the rust line at the bottom, that is generally caused by moisture between the weld and base metal being released after cooling. And yep, I'd box 'em. Again, just trying to offer unsolicited constructive criticism. Hope you don't mind WhiteXJMax, just don't want you to kill yourself.
 
Lucas said:
Your rear DS looks thin, what brand is it?
Also not criticizing, just wondering.
Click to expand...

Thats the exhaust pipe!!!!!!!!
The other pic is the front driveshaft yoke!!!
 
Last edited:
Ok, the painted black tube attached to the joint coming out of his transfercase in the second to last pic, thats what im reffering to. It just looks like the overall diameter is thin compared to a stock shaft. Im assuming its aftermarket?
 
Lucas said:
Ok, the painted black tube attached to the joint coming out of his transfercase in the second to last pic, thats what im reffering to. It just looks like the overall diameter is thin compared to a stock shaft. Im assuming its aftermarket?
Click to expand...

What???????????Thats the "long arm".
 
the "long arm" isn't connected to the "transfercase"
lukescrap.jpg
 
RCP Phx said:
What???????????Thats the "long arm".
Click to expand...
On the left side of the cross member (1" t-cse drop) is two long arms and their brackets, in midle of the two is stock front drive shaft. On the right side of the cross member, coming out of the 231 is a small black and pretty DS
IMG_3442.jpg
 
We replied at same time:D
 
Guess my reply came off a little harsh. I read all the replies first, I just didn't see anyone reply with the severity I thought was needed. Also, I didn't think anyone addressed the bracing issue at all(on the UCA mounting tabs or on the frame brackets. Anyway, wasn't meant as a bash, just constructive criticism with a push behind it. Best of luck to ya.

Ary
 
Sorry Guys,with my screen setup I missed the fact that all the picture wasnt displayed!!!!!! I wasnt seeing anything rear of the crossmember!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
XJ shackle with custom springs question.
Replies
11
Views
210
XJlimitedx99
X
X
Drop Brackets to fix bent frame mounts?
2
Replies
31
Views
285
Bent
Bent
G
Braided Fuel Line/Fittings Size From Quick Clip to Rail
Replies
2
Views
1K
GraniteCow
G
ZomBrady
Things are looking up or how a couple of XJs gave me back my life
Replies
6
Views
175
ZomBrady
ZomBrady
Root Moose
Restoring a Uniframe
Replies
7
Views
146
DirtySouthXJ
D
Back
Top