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231 SYE Hack and tap... but different...

R

reddragon72

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cypress, TX
So I have the 231 with the cone. My question is, which I have looked every where and not found anyone with this idea, is to not hack... I mean buy the hack and tab for a 232 but leave the cone in place and drill out what is there.

I ask this because I have heard that seals on the cone replacements suck and I really see no reason to remove the cone.
 
If you don't remove the cone, the driveshaft angle will be too steep, and the leverage on the housing from the driveshaft will be increased.


I had/have no problems with the gaskets/seals when I did mine....so not sure where you heard this info from. It's a gasket for the cone, seal for the shaft, and an o-ring for the speedo cable.
 
By cone I'm assuming you mean your slip yoke goes inside the t case? I would not waste the time on trying to make a hack and tap for that. Get the advance adapters kit and be done with it, and you won't have to worry so much about snapping that pencil of a main shaft
 
reddragon72 said:
So I have the 231 with the cone. My question is, which I have looked every where and not found anyone with this idea, is to not hack... I mean buy the hack and tab for a 232 but leave the cone in place and drill out what is there.

I ask this because I have heard that seals on the cone replacements suck and I really see no reason to remove the cone.
Click to expand...
Don't believe everything you've heard.
All it takes is one bad review buy a single person and the next thing you know....
Nun's and Orphans were dismembered because Brand X was used, or because a seal leaked.

Get a legitimate HnT if you want to go that route, or wise-up and get a short-shaft SYE. Anything else and you'll be that guy blocking the trail.
 
Thanks for the info!!!

The angle would be no different than now considering the current shaft output is at a steep angle. Also the skinny shaft would be better supported by the cone.... because that does make sense...

When you say a legitimate hack and tap you mean there is a particular brand that is better than the others?

And I am confused on how that shaft would break from a hack and tap as I have heard the cheaper full replacements are less quality. I will be limiting up travel and chaining for down travel so as not to "over extend and hyper extend the rear I was just wondering why no-one ever just tapped it with the cone on...
 
Legitimate meaning a properly designed HnT. Proven design and performance. Not some Half Baked cockamamie design that somebody came up with to save a buck or two.

The whole purpose of an Sye is to (are you ready for this?).... eliminate the slip yoke.

Doing so with a short shaft Sye kit obviously shortens the shaft. This allows for a less severe Driveline angle which is exactly what you're after. By just tapping the existing output shaft you are not decreasing the Driveline angle.

Using a HnT kit allows you to shorten the shaft a little as well. Although you are eliminating the slip yoke with one of these kits you are still left with an oem shaft that is not as strong as a short shaft replacement.

Can't help you with a recommendation because vendors aren't allowed to advertise outside of the vendor forum.
 
Last edited:
reddragon72 said:
Thanks for the info!!!

The angle would be no different than now considering the current shaft output is at a steep angle. Also the skinny shaft would be better supported by the cone.... because that does make sense...

When you say a legitimate hack and tap you mean there is a particular brand that is better than the others?

And I am confused on how that shaft would break from a hack and tap as I have heard the cheaper full replacements are less quality. I will be limiting up travel and chaining for down travel so as not to "over extend and hyper extend the rear I was just wondering why no-one ever just tapped it with the cone on...
Click to expand...

True...I should have said the angle would be steeper when compared to a normal SYE installation.
 
I was thinking of doing a HnT for years on my 231 but when it came down to it, I realized doing the short shaft SYE makes a whole lot more sense. Especially since my seal started leaking after putting on new suspension.

I just did the Advance Adapters kit and it's a piece of cake once you get the T-case out. I guess it's a bit more of a pain if you install the kit with the T-case still on the Jeep but some guys don't want to remove it.



Which shaft looks sturdier to you?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
99 I get what your saying but I have heard of just as many stories of the cheaper short shaft kits going bad the stories of the hack n tap snapping....

I think I'll go hack n tap for the simple fact that my tcase seems to be happy and I hate to tick it off by opening it up.

Oh and another Q would the stock front shaft fit with the stub shaft? It seems to be pretty stretched out to start with when I tossed it up there to see if it does work...
 
reddragon72 said:
99 I get what your saying but I have heard of just as many stories of the cheaper short shaft kits going bad the stories of the hack n tap snapping....

I think I'll go hack n tap for the simple fact that my tcase seems to be happy and I hate to tick it off by opening it up.

Oh and another Q would the stock front shaft fit with the stub shaft? It seems to be pretty stretched out to start with when I tossed it up there to see if it does work...
Click to expand...
:huh:You wont be doing anything bad by opening up the tail cone and back half of the case. If anything, it will allow you or your mechanic to inspect the internals of the case for shavings or metal filings(results of bad previous maintenance or signs of a failing gear set), replace a stretched chain(yes the chains do stretch), upgrade to a much beefier output shaft (see above post) and get rid of the slip yoke to a much sturdier Joint. The Slip yoke works fine for a stock height vehicle that doesnt have much rear doward movement, but is a terribly weak design for any lifted vehicle. Dont to a HnT. Do a true SYE. Both options have variants to run a front XJ shaft. THere are many vendors on here who sell the kits and can point you in the direction of shich shaft you want to use.
 
WyoCherokee So are the 200 dollar one good to go? I am limited on my budget as I have already bought items for an extra 1.5 inches of lift so the HnT was in my budget.
 
reddragon72 said:
Oh and another Q would the stock front shaft fit with the stub shaft? It seems to be pretty stretched out to start with when I tossed it up there to see if it does work...
Click to expand...

Custom built driveshaft is the way to go but...

If you have the right combination a junk-yard XJ front shaft from an Auto+NP231 will work.

It'll probably need a rebuild and balanced which will put you 60-100% of the cost of a top-tier custom shaft.

The $200 AA kit is not "cheap" and barring some bad luck will be as solid or more so than the stock set-up.

2-tips: Get a new speedometer sending unit O-ring before hand and buy new bolts for the tail-cone.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
A cheap SYE kit (I'm using one that was $160 new on Ebay and it works great) plus a auto/231 front driveshaft ($25 here at U Pull) is cheaper than a custom driveshaft alone for a hack and tap (unless you use the Iron Rock kit, which is definitely the super cheap and dirty way to get an SYE).

In theory, a hack n tap looks fine. But then you don't get it cut great. Or the output shaft bends a touch. And splitting the case is pretty darn easy, even if you don't pull it. In my mind, the only good use for a hack n tap is on a t-case where a proper SYE isn't available.

Paul
 
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