I'm Back Again - with Questions About 4x2 Hub & Stub Removal

Hi everyone, it's been a long time, no posts. I'm back in the XJ family, having recently picked up a 1998 Cherokee Sport 4x2. It's turning out to be a great runabout but I wanted to catch up on some deferred maintenance, courtesy of the previous owner.

So far, I've managed to replace the shocks and sort of disassemble the front steering knuckles replace the ball joints (in addition, I want replace the sway bar links, 4 tie rod ends and steering damper...have all the parts, just trying to make headway). Anyway, I'm hitting a wall. I've managed to remove the caliper, 13mm hub-to-knuckle bolts (3), removed the cotter pin, spring clip, 36mm axle nut and stub shaft. Still, though, a couple taps from my BFH isn't finishing the job. I don't want to get too aggressive, just in case I'm missing something delicate that might be holding it on.

There's a wealth of information for 4x4 axle assemblies, but not quite so much for the 4x2 stub & hub. Can anyone help point out what I might be missing or any tips? I've gotten most the torque specs but didn't anticipate having to remove the 36mm axle nut, so I'm not sure what the spec is for that.

Thanks in advance!

Sacrifice a 13mm bolt, a brass drift punch, or a cheap 13mm socket. Re-install one of the 13mm bolts about 1/2 way in. Use a 2 pound sledge hammer and hammer on the socket/punch/bolt until the hub loosens. You may have to switch the bolt another hole to completely loosen the hub.

Tim_MN said:

Sacrifice a 13mm bolt, a brass drift punch, or a cheap 13mm socket. Re-install one of the 13mm bolts about 1/2 way in. Use a 2 pound sledge hammer and hammer on the socket/punch/bolt until the hub loosens. You may have to switch the bolt another hole to completely loosen the hub.

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Thanks, I'll give it a try. Out of curiosity, was it even necessary for me to disassemble the axle nut, etc or is it only retained by the 3 13mm bolts to the steering knuckle?

Yes you definitely have to remove the axle nut because that's what holds the bearing together.

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Ou2mame said:

Yes you definitely have to remove the axle nut because that's what holds the bearing together.

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I appreciate the info. I wasn't sure whether I had to disassemble it that far. All the ball joints tutorials show the three 13mm bolts being all that's necessary to remove the half shaft and hub as one assembly. Although the 4x2 only has a stub, I didn't expect having to take the hub and bearings apart.

I had to remove the wheel hub on a Volvo and it was rusted on there really good and what I ended up doing was heating the knuckle around where the hub mounts to it with a propane torch and hammering a screw driver in between all around to break the rust and it started moving so I just kept hitting it with the mallet from one side to the other and it came off.

Oh if you want to remove the bearing and shaft as one piece you don't have to take the axle nut off but I would just to make it easier to remove the hub if it's rusted on there really good.

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There is absolutely no need to remove the 36 mm nut or stub axle from the unit bearing to remove the whole assembly from the steering knuckle. I have only had to pound on one or two, most come loose with a few good taps.

Heat has the potential to damage the seals on the hub and should only be used if you are installing new hubs and don't care about the old ones.

I tried everything from using my 4 pound drilling hammer to tap the face pretty briskly where the bolts come in, to tapping a thin pry bar between the knuckle and the hub to even putting one of the bolts back in and putting an impact socket over it, then turning the wheel to pop the hub loose. Nothing. I'm not sure what else to do, but I might just button it up, admit defeat, and drop it off at the shop.

Heat is probably your best answer.

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get 3 new hex bolts from the hardware store with the same threads but 1" longer over all.
thread them all the way in and pound on them in a "circle" pattern with the BFH. dont waste an OEM bolt. also the larger hex gives a bigger target for the BFH.
make sure they are threaded all the way in, so the force is distributed thru the entire thread bore, not just the first few threads. i pounded the threads right out of of a hub once. beat it like it owes you money.. throw the now-mushroomed bolts in the tool bag, you will use them again.
i'm not a fan of heating any bearing areas, though it may not really hurt it.

the stub doesnt need to be separated unless you are replacing the hub.

sidriptide said:

get 3 new hex bolts from the hardware store with the same threads but 1" longer over all.
thread them all the way in and pound on them in a "circle" pattern with the BFH. dont waste an OEM bolt. also the larger hex gives a bigger target for the BFH.
make sure they are threaded all the way in, so the force is distributed thru the entire thread bore, not just the first few threads. i pounded the threads right out of of a hub once. beat it like it owes you money.. throw the now-mushroomed bolts in the tool bag, you will use them again.
i'm not a fan of heating any bearing areas, though it may not really hurt it.

the stub doesnt need to be separated unless you are replacing the hub.

Click to expand...

Follow these instructions step by step and you will be OK.