Pan Hard Bar Lengths??

Ok so I've read a lot about 3-4 links and the criticism on radius arms but this is a pan hard bar question that I feel is narrowly touched on! I've read the angle should match the drag link angle! Then I've read it should be level! SO what is it! Mine is at the drag link angle and about the same length as well. Since I finally acquired both 14" Fox air struts (shocks) and 14"coil overs as well (have not decided which way I'll go coil or air) I have a pan hard question! Is the lenght, other than room for it matter? As long as it is long enough or as long if possible as the drag link? Is there an issue in the P bar being level with mounts low on frame and high on axle (if clearance permits) as needed for a level p bar?
Opinions facts will all be accepted even if not liked as well as opinions on air versus coils! The radius arm subject is strictly Tabooed :nono: since I ran one for over 20 years with great success but am now going BIGGER hence the 14"s :clap:!
If you get what I mean!

Level bars at ride height will prevent the axle from shifting to the sides at bump and droop. Less bind at the joints too. My drag link and track bar are at a steep angle, when I hit the bump stops the axle is off center by about an inch to the passenger side. The springs rub on the bump stop too.

The drag link and track bar being the same length will allow them to pivot about the same radius. This helps eliminate bump steer. The tack bar doesn't HAVE to be parallel but the closer it is, the less upward force is placed on the frame. I can't tell you what is best because I'm in the same boat with trying to figure it out myself. I'm slowly finding positives to having a parallel track bar as I think through the entire suspension range on mine.

You want it as level as possible, as near to the same length as the drag link as possible, and as near to the same angle as the drag link as possible. So you want both bars to be flat, and the same length. Flat isn't always practical with low lift heights, because you can run into clearance issues between the track bar and the axle housing/brackets when the axle moves up. So start with same length and same angle. Most of us have an angle on the TB/ drag link. You'd have to have high steer/otk, a dropped pitman arm, and low lift height to have perfectly flat bars.

I'm interested in this topic too. Paddlernate laid out the ideal geometry pretty well. But what's acceptable in real life? I know that's a broad question, but how far away from ideal have people been able to get away with.

For example, I'm going to have a 10 degree angle on the drag link and the trackbar. The trackbar will be 33" and the drag link will be 38.5". Is that acceptable, or a disaster?

What you describe is pretty much exactly what I have, and I suffer no ill effects. I think that out of all of these variables, its most important that the TB and drag link are parallel (assuming the other two variables of angle and length are within reason). Bumpsteer sucks, and is mostly controlled by having the two links in parallel. Having them different lengths will also induce bumpsteer when the axle moves to the extents of its upward and downward travel, but that's not likely to happen much on the pavement, where bumpsteer is most worrisome.

Another thing to consider is that the shorter the TB, the more side to side movement you'll see from the axle in the range of travel. Looking back, I've love to redo mine longer, when it swings down I get a little contact with the airbumps inside my coils.

Panhard and draglink. 3 factors.


As equal angle as possible
As level as possible
As equal length as possible


In that order. Each is about twice as important as the factor after it.

My guess is that a lot of people run a TB that's shorter than ideal. I have a full width front, my frame side bracket is forward and out relative to the stock bracket, and my axle side bracket is all the way against the coil mount. If you run your drag link to the passenger knuckle, it seems like you either have to be pretty creative with your TB mounts, or accept that the TB will be shorter than ideal.

I do not have any issues with my current set up! Since I will be switching to a 3 link I wanted to get a general consensus of opinions and experience to alter if need be my previous set up! Thanks!

I think a large part of the equation you need to consider is your driving conditions and how you want the rig to ride on the road. As Cal said, the angle is most important so the TB and the steering will cycle together under compression and de-compression. This is the most common factor people seem to use when setting up suspension under a rig. Usually becasue of clearance issues. It's hard to get a flat TB/DL when you have a excessive lift with UTK or stock steering, and unless you do like what Cal has done with his TB on the rig, it will be difficult to get the TB/DL the same length. I think, and im not a professional, but get these things as close as possible with the clearance you have under your rig and you should be ok.