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XJ and 35's - really don't fit in the rear well.

blistovmhz

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Vancouver, BC
I feel like I already know what needs to be done here, but as I haven't seen many people with the same problem, I'm trying to figure out if it's just because everyone else's rears aren't articulating as well.

35x12.5" KM2's riding on 63" chevy leafs. My up-travel is limited only by the length of the rear wheel wells. My well worn 35's are binding at the front and rear of the wells (wheels are perfectly centered).

Given heaps of guys run 35's and don't need to do anything other than a minor trim and fold, and I didn't have an issue either with XJ size leafs, I figure this issue WOULD affect more people if their leafs weren't limiting their up-travel. I just can't see any way to open up the well enough to full stuff 35's into the top of the well. Axle is perfectly centered under the stock well and I'm constantly binding up on the bottom of the well, and my 35's are burned at least to 50%.

Is there a trick to trimming beyond a simple cut and fold that everyone is privy to but I somehow missed and haven't figure out? Plan is to comp-cut the rear anyway, but I was just curious if the issue is really just because I'm flexing that much better than most rigs.
FYI, my rear works just as hard as the front with the longer leafs. I actually had to hold off on the front anti-rock because it would overwork the rear, so I have to do both front and rear bars to keep things equal.

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This picture isn't quite as compressed as I can get, but that's where the tires start rubbing front and back. Another 3/4" up and the wheel starts tearing treads off. The rears are cut and folded as far as they can really be pounded, without doing a full comp-cut.

Here's a shot at ride height.
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You can even see on the rear of the well, that it's actually gotten shmooshed back almost 1/2" from the constant binding, and every time the rear hits, it's also contacting the front, so it's not an axle location issue. Leafs are perfectly level, so the upward travel is nearly perfectly vertical.

I designed the leaf mounts so I can pull the entire thing back up to 5", so once I've got it comp cut, I'm really limited only by the fuel tank, which will let me move about 3.5-4" back, which will be loads of room. Really this is just a question of why I bind, where others don't seem to have the issue. As stated, I suspect it's just because my compression is much softer.
 
Most others bumpstop it so they can't stuff that high

Only other option is to move the axle back ~2 " and cut out the back part of the wheel well so it can move up.
 
As was my plan. I just see a lot of 35's on xj's and I know a lot of guys really don't understand bump stopping and would be surprised if most had actually done it. I know I couldn't stuff on my xj leafs. the 63’s are like butter.

Ultimately I don't want to move my bump stops as I want more compression travel for the high speed stuff, so comp cut is coming when I'm ready to cage.
Bumps are already 1.5" above my leaf plate. I'd actually like to move them down an inch.
 
Was going off the same thread for the most part. I'd probably be tying in the outer and inner together with some light 1.5 or 2" tube as it gives me something to mount flares to, and I'd be chopping out the lower rear section entirely, as it's just something to hang up on.
 
I worked off of what TNT did on theirs and moved the rear tub sections...











The rest are in my build thread


I did almost exactly this, becoming more common, there are several threads on it. I cut out the inner wheel well, moved it back about 3", and welded back together. Only reason I didn't go further was because of the fuel filler on the driver side, I didn't want to start cutting into that structure.

In hindsight I wish I had gone as far as I could until I hit the actual filler line. A few people had recommended this, but I was too far into it, and I was borrowing my buddy and his welder for the project, so I didn't want to abuse the privilege. When I get my own welder set up I'll probably extend them again.

I also extended the front, so my stock WB, my 34" tires tuck perfectly. I could move them back an inch or two and still be fine. Ultimately I want to do 37s on 63" chevy's and move it back 2-3".
 
I did almost exactly this, becoming more common, there are several threads on it. I cut out the inner wheel well, moved it back about 3", and welded back together. Only reason I didn't go further was because of the fuel filler on the driver side, I didn't want to start cutting into that structure.

In hindsight I wish I had gone as far as I could until I hit the actual filler line. A few people had recommended this, but I was too far into it, and I was borrowing my buddy and his welder for the project, so I didn't want to abuse the privilege. When I get my own welder set up I'll probably extend them again.

I also extended the front, so my stock WB, my 34" tires tuck perfectly. I could move them back an inch or two and still be fine. Ultimately I want to do 37s on 63" chevy's and move it back 2-3".

Have you got any detailed shots of your shock hoop setup? I've got a few idea's in mind, but I'd like to see what other have come up with.

Also, this is close to what I'll be doing, except that I've gotta cut out the entire curved lip for the entire well as mine will start rusting out soon if I don't. Plan is to either tie the inner and outer together with some light tube, or just flat sheet it together. Will mean a LOT more cutting as the front's gotta mostly come out as well, but at the end of the day it'll last much longer than if I just simply relocated the rear half of the well back a few inches.

As for 37's, makes everything too easy imo. I keep thinking I'm goona go tonnes and 37's, but then I remember that I'm having trouble finding challenging trails on my 35's. Almost tempted to just throw on some stock shoes and take it for a spin :p.
 
I haven't done a shock set up yet. Look at the link in boostwerks post. He's got a lot of detailed photos of his set up
 
I'm hoping to have our towers available soon. If done correctly they are 100% water tight and allow for different wheel bases/tower angles...etc.

I'll eventually have a 1.75" DOM cage built from the rear structure. Just need to find the time.




MAN! every time I see your work I drool!
 
I'm hoping to have our towers available soon. If done correctly they are 100% water tight and allow for different wheel bases/tower angles...etc.

I'll eventually have a 1.75" DOM cage built from the rear structure. Just need to find the time.





This is what I would have done if they were available. I may even do it in the future. Unfortunately despite the advice of a few on here I did not extend it as far as I should have. I can either fit 37 or I can stretch 2-3" with 33-34" tires, but I can't do 37s and stretch.

I think BW has a mild stretch on his?
 
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