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Oil filter adapter removal

amorth

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Denver, CO
I'm replacing the o-rings on my oil filter adapter but I can't get the stupid thing off. Can any of you please tell me if there is a trick on removing this thing? I'm replacing my starter as well and that's already out of the way. I went HF and bought the T60 torx socket and pounded out the bit from the socket so I could get it in there.

I've read plenty of threads on how to do it and saw a few videos on it too, but I can't seem to get the leverage to move the dang thing. For those of you that did it, did you tackle it from above or below? How many wrenches did you hook together to get it done? Is there a special tool? Any advice would be so greatly appreciated.

BTW, I have a 2000, AW4.

Thanks!!
 
Last edited:
I did it from above. High lift handle over the wrench
 
Thanks for all the responses. I'm going to hit up O'reillys for the L T60 and try it with a cheater bar. This thing is a B!*ch!!!
 
I know you don't have allot of room, but I have a short handle 5lb sledge hammer
that if I turn sideways I can usually get a few hits on it.
Just like stuck pipe plugs, after you give it the chemical blast anything you can do
to 'shock it' helps. Plus as a side bonus it helps tighten up the the T60 fit somewhat.
 
There are 3 o-rings but on both of mine XJ's only the outer one looked bad. It's Fel Pro 70301 and available for less than $2 at the part stores. I haven't used that part, but it looks correct. The dealer prices have gone up on this stuff. I think they want $20 for the o-ring kit these days.
 
Autozone,Advance Auto Parts have them.Look in the "Help" carded isle and there is a kit that has them in it.You can spot it by the round gasket for GM and a bunch of o rings.It has the list on the back.Just match them up.I think the orange/brownish one is a tiny bit larger than the factory one.I used that on no problems.
 
It's impossible to use that setup on most XJ's. The reason folks use the serpentine belt tool or the L wrench with a pipe is because there is not enough clearance for a ratchet. The serpentine belt tool is thin enough that it fits between the adapter and frame rail. My Snap On Flex Head ratchet is 6" shorter than yours but otherwise the same and its a non-starter.
 
huh.

mine fits no problem. strange.

I could not fit 1/2" drive size tools in there, Last one I did, I used a Snap on 3/8" Breaker bar with a Torx socket + a 3 ft length of Heavy Pipe as a cheater. I also used a Pry bar to keep pressure against the tool to prevent it from slipping out, I had so much torque on it the engine was moving before It came loose!!
They probably use a Robot to torque it down in the factory! This Over torquing is the reason I suspect the O rings go bad.
 
A lot of ideas offered in the posts of how to get torque on the fitting. What I used is a T60 bit, with a box end wrench over the T60 hex, and a short cheater on the box end wrench. And a small pry bar to keep the bit engaged in the adapter fitting. But it wouldn't work for me without heat.

There's a thread locking agent on the steel adapter fitting (the part with the torx feature) where it threads into the block. I applied heat from a propane torch on the fitting (not the aluminum adapter housing). It takes awhile because the heat needs to propagate from where you apply it through the length of the fitting to the threads in the block. The block is also a huge heat sink. I think I went from like 20 seconds heat applied, 10 seconds off for maybe 10-15 minutes. The fitting came off easy.
 
It's impossible to use that setup on most XJ's. The reason folks use the serpentine belt tool or the L wrench with a pipe is because there is not enough clearance for a ratchet. The serpentine belt tool is thin enough that it fits between the adapter and frame rail. My Snap On Flex Head ratchet is 6" shorter than yours but otherwise the same and its a non-starter.

huh.

mine fits no problem. strange.


I remember now!

I pulled the ****ing engine and did it on the stand.

Sorry for bad info! :)
 
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