The hardest bolts to remove are the ones in the leaf springs and shackles, since they tend to corrode and freeze to the inner bushing sleeve. Even if they break free and spin, the corrosion buildup will still get caught inside and you won't be able to turn the bolt out. The most sensible strategy for dealing with them is to cut through the outer bushing sleeve until you get to the inner sleeve, then spread that apart enough for the corroded bolt to come out. You can also cut the bolt on both sides of the bushing and drop the bushing out, but then you have a chunk of bolt still in the weld nut--if you can do it and leave a little bolt exposed, you can slot it with a Dremel or tack another bolt onto it and turn it out.
The bolts that break most often are the upper shock bolts. Try to keep your driver square on the bolt and they are less likely to break. If you have access to an impact it will be a big help, since it will pull straight.
UCA bushings on the axle can be hard too, for those you should just cut the rubber out (hole saw, or make a lot of little cuts) and then fold the outer bushing with a chisel or something.
Don't torque the hardware until the jeep is on the ground. Bushings are designed so the inside sleeve is held in place by the bolt torque, while the outer moves with the attached assembly, and the rubber part flexes and bends then snaps back into position. If you tighten up at odd angles, the rubber will always be under stress and you'll wonder why your bushings only lasted six months.
Anti-sieze all the hardware, its the favor you do for yourself when you need to get at something
