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Track bar bushing/heim?

chesterbuggle

NAXJA Forum User
Location
salt lake city
I'm looking at buying an adjustable track bar for my xj. It has a 3" lift. I've been looking at iron rock offroad and rock krawler. Now one has a bushing on the body side and one has a heim. I live in Utah so I see salty roads in winter. Which is the better option?
 
A properly maintained heim will be just fine. If anything coat it in some sort of grease, that will keep the salt and rust away. But, as long as you are running a decent quality TB with a double shear mount there should be no issues.
 
if your rig is mostly a street drive daily driver always go with bushings for the ride quality. the only advantage of a heim over a bushing is deflection, of which a track bar sees almost none. the majority of force on a trackber at either end is side load and rotational. also be aware that heim joints don't have grease fittings. most of them rely on the inner liner material around the ball to keep the joint tight. it's generally a non serviceable part.
 
At 3" lift I don't think any of the double shear bars are going to fit properly and clear the front diff. Look through install instructions etc for lift height ranges on each bar. I wound up with an rc bar I really liked.
 
Clayton makes a nice double shear with a 'stock height' frame bracket good for 3" of lift (and up to 4.5" or 5" iirc)
 
I just purchased the RE1600 through Amazon for $130.00 delivered.
(it just felt like the thing to do at the time)

When I did my 3" lift a couple years ago, I removed the original track bar, cut it, added a welded external sleeve to extend it to the needed length and have beat the crap out of it without issue.

Now the RE bar arrives and it is tubing verses the oem solid bar, I have now drilled out the taper frame side mount so there is no going back.

After comparing the rotational angle differences between the heim joint and the tie rod end style, there really does not seem to be any difference.
At 3" I don't feel double shear is really necessary but if this single shear heim turns into an issue then I will re-think that and get a stock, unmolested factory bracket and go back to my original Extendo- Bar.

Bottom line is I probably should had left well enough alone, I will see !
But hey, it's only money right ? Plus now, I have a RE sticker for my tool box.
 
I just purchased the RE1600 through Amazon for $130.00 delivered.
(it just felt like the thing to do at the time)

When I did my 3" lift a couple years ago, I removed the original track bar, cut it, added a welded external sleeve to extend it to the needed length and have beat the crap out of it without issue.

Now the RE bar arrives and it is tubing verses the oem solid bar, I have now drilled out the taper frame side mount so there is no going back.

After comparing the rotational angle differences between the heim joint and the tie rod end style, there really does not seem to be any difference.
At 3" I don't feel double shear is really necessary but if this single shear heim turns into an issue then I will re-think that and get a stock, unmolested factory bracket and go back to my original Extendo- Bar.

Bottom line is I probably should had left well enough alone, I will see !
But hey, it's only money right ? Plus now, I have a RE sticker for my tool box.

Since it appears that you know how to weld, add a "box" with plate to your stock mount to run a through bolt double shear. Will increase your movement, and you will not have to worry about the stock/modified single shear hole getting wallowed out. The heim will last much longer as well.
After my initial lift on my current heep, I ran an RE1600 with a modified stock bracket run in double shear. Worked awesome. Only upgraded when I got a deal on my RE1660HD, mount and brace.
 
Since it appears that you know how to weld, add a "box" with plate to your stock mount to run a through bolt double shear. Will increase your movement, and you will not have to worry about the stock/modified single shear hole getting wallowed out. The heim will last much longer as well.
After my initial lift on my current heep, I ran an RE1600 with a modified stock bracket run in double shear. Worked awesome. Only upgraded when I got a deal on my RE1660HD, mount and brace.

Doing the box thing on the stock brace to put the bar into double shear did cross my mind and I already have the material and equipment to do, just got in a rush to put it on for a run this weekend.

I will more than likely do it in the future but for now it is just a test.

One thing I found interesting when installing the bar is that after multiple measurements from all kinds of reference points to be sure the axle was centered, is that the bar had to have the the heim and jam nut screwed in all the way to make it mount properly.

I thought these bars could be used at stock height also ? No way without at least removing the jam nut.
 
Amazon says "works on vehicles with 2.5" - 5.5" of lift"
http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1600-Front-Track/dp/B006GJLE4A
I had probably ~2.5" when I had my old no-name sagged 3" springs.

Was that with the boxed double shear or the stock single shear set up.
If single shear, do you recall if the heim and jam nut were bottomed out ?

I can understand if it was boxed it may have been be set outboard futher.

I also found it funny the the RE instructions said to reference your axle center based off of fender flair measurements ! Who the hell has straight fenders and even if they were, what are the chances of them being installed at the factory dead-nuts ?
 
The box, IIRC, was basically inline with the the stock mounting hole.
What I have done, which seems to work well, is Connect the axle side of the TB, and shake the body side to side and let it settle. Then adjust joint to bolt in.
 
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