Installing lift, anything i should watch out for?

I am getting ready to do the install on my lift ( RE 3.5" superflex with full springs). I have been hitting everything with PB Blaster. I am just wondering if there is anything I should keep a heads up for. Or any pointers that can make it a little easier. Thanks for any advice in advance.

The first thing that comes to mind is the front leaf bolts that go into a nut inside the frame rail. People break the captive nut loose a lot, although if it is seized you may have no choice. If they have never been out, have provisions to cut a hole in the frame rail to access and fix the captive nut in there. Also, it is a good time to upgrade the axle side lca mounts. The stock ones are garbage that will break off eventually if you wheel it.

FloydXJ said:

The first thing that comes to mind is the front leaf bolts that go into a nut inside the frame rail. People break the captive nut loose a lot, although if it is seized you may have no choice. If they have never been out, have provisions to cut a hole in the frame rail to access and fix the captive nut in there. Also, it is a good time to upgrade the axle side lca mounts. The stock ones are garbage that will break off eventually if you wheel it.

Click to expand...

The best way to get at the front weldnut (if they break free) is to cut a hole in the bottom of the spring hanger and bend the metal back until you can get a wrench on it. This way you don't impair the strength of the frame. If you are removing the rear shackles and one of those weldnuts break free, remove the bumper and cut an access hole through the rear plate that sits behind the bumper.
Other observations:

1) installing the bushings into the springs can be difficult. I found that a 1 Ton Arbor press from Harbor Freight with a 3 foot extension (my jack handle) was needed to get them pressed in.

2) if instead of having the weldnut break free, you find that the bolt breaks, don't panic. One of the vendors offers a replacement mount for the front spring hanger. No welding required but it does take a bit of work to cut the old one out. I had this happen on my drivers side.

I would recommend changing the U bolts at the same time. While you are at it, you may want to stop by your local dealership and buy new spring bolts as well. After the first one broke, I decided to change all 4.

HTH
Todd

Thanks for the heads up guys. As far as the spring bushings they are already in. I will definately be picking up new spring bolts. Hopefully I don't have a problem with them. I have had good luck with everything else coming apart ok. Knock on wood!. One other question. What do you think of the teraflex revolver shackles, and using them on a dd to get a little more rear articulation.

If you haven't beat the snot of them yet, throw some mini skids on your front axle LCA's before you spread them on rocks.

Thanks for the heads up on the lca skids. I didn't think of those. I really appreciate all of the help guys! Keep the ideas coming. The last truck I had a hand in building was when I helped my older cousin when I was a kid. To give an idea how long ago it was the truck was a Chevy Luv! If you know what one is you know it kinda dates me!

Meh, meant the lower control arm mounts on the axle side. They'll last a long time once you box them in. I know more guys who complain about them being weak but they ran them without boxing them and that's usually what kills them.

Here are a few tips...

You can hit those rear upper shock mounts all you want, you WILL break at least one. The passenger side is easy enough to get nuts on the back of a replacement bolt, but the driver side sucks. It is possible though, i taped a grade 8 nut inside the boxed end of my wrench. Other than that, its just swearing with maybe a little knuckle blood. Samey same

I definately get the knuckle blood thing. As far as the rear shock mount, I am a fireman with an ex wife. So my knowledge of "colorful metaphors" is quite vast...lol. I do appreciate the pictures. My buddy that is helping me was a light wheel mechanic in Desert Storm so he is pretty good at figuring out how to get things done in less than perfect situations. Keep the tips coming, it all helps. Thanks again guys.

I do have one more question. What length bumpstops should I put on the front. Origional ones are gone.

the Daystar ones are perfect. I myself have them on mine
http://www.daystarweb.com/productlisting.php?selYear=1999&selMake=Jeep&selModel=XJ+Cherokee&txtPartNo=bump+stop&search.x=5&search.y=4

You'll notice 2 different styles for the front. Depends on year