Using 1" square tubing for T-case drop, bolt sizes?

Going to do a 1" T-case drop on my 2000 XJ with a 3" lift. I have the square tubing, but would like to pick up some new bolts.

What size bolts do you guys use? Thanks!

The same bolts as the original just 1" longer? Lol

My hardware, which I think is 10mm but might be 3/8, was rusted in and trashed. I drilled it out and tapped for 7/16 bolts, four of them, about 1.5 inches iirc. Note that the cross member has two studs and two bolts. The studs may need a torch to be removed

M10 x 1.5 x 50mm. Pull one and measure it if in doubt.

Torch, PBB, and a pipe wrench or stud extractor to pull the studs.

Thanks guys!

Got the bolts today, and NAPA only had 40mm long ones. It looks like I'll only be dropping it 3/4" so I hope they fit.

The stud must thread into a welded nut on the inside of the frame then? Could I just weld the existing nut to the stud and use that to turn it out?

You don't need a x-case drop with 3" of lift. All your doing is loosing 1" of ground clearance.

I'm at 3" , no drop and stock drive shaft. No issues.

Why do I have vibes at certain speeds, and why did my U-joints last less than 10k with greasing every 3k?

I don't like how the slip yoke us barley on the output shaft either.

If I'm wrong let me know, I don't want to put a T-case drop in it either.

dktool said:

You don't need a x-case drop with 3" of lift. All your doing is loosing 1" of ground clearance.

I'm at 3" , no drop and stock drive shaft. No issues.

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You didn't.....
Which tcase and rear diff does your XJ have?
My '98 had the AX15 and C8.25 which had driveline vibrations from the time it was purchased new in Oct '97.
When I brought the Jeep to the dealer; I received every excuse imaginable and in those years there was no TSB for driveline vibrations.
I tried replacing the U joints along with a rebuild and balance of the ds; the only fix was the installation of an SYE in Apr '98.
Once the SYE was installed I visited the Service Manager at the dealer and gave him a large dose of grief.... I told him that he and his service dept wouldn't figure out the problem, but a local 4x4 shop holds the patent on the SYE conversion.
Service Manager said, "That looks like a duplicate of the front ds setup".
My response was.... "You are correct; so why couldn't you figure that out" ?
I wasn't welcome at the dealership until after the Service Manager retired.

DerMeister said:

Could I just weld the existing nut to the stud and use that to turn it out?

Click to expand...

this is how I take them out every time, works great.

DerMeister said:

Why do I have vibes at certain speeds, and why did my U-joints last less than 10k with greasing every 3k?

I don't like how the slip yoke us barley on the output shaft either.

If I'm wrong let me know, I don't want to put a T-case drop in it either.

Click to expand...

Yeah, each jeep and driver is different.
You probably *do* need a Tcase drop or SYE.
I vaguely remember hearing that different years, axle / trans combos etc had different requirements (tolerance, actually) when you lift.