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a little help please..

jmeti000

NAXJA Forum User
Location
san antonio,tx
Just finished the disk brake swap on my 87 with a 44 and took it for a test spin. Im hearing what sounds like metal on metal that gets louder the faster I go. It doesnt make the sound below 15-20mph, seems to go away when I turn to the drivers side or am accelerating. Ive taken everything apart and checked it but dont see any marks where it might be rubbing and since it doesnt make the noise unless Im driving above 15-20 mph Im having a hard time pin pointing it. Anyone have any ideas or input? Ive been staring at this for a while now so any input would be great since Im obviously overlooking something.
 
Bearings werent replaced...they were done about 6 months ago and were still good. Guess Ill just give it a once over again to make sure and go with the brake shoe dragging. Worse case scenario Ill just drive it till something brakes and fix it then lol.
 
Ya I have backing plates...I think thats what was causing it. I found one little corner of the plate that had rub marks on it so I gently adjusted it with a BFH. Going out for another test spin....fingers crossed.
 
I had a scraping noise on my rear after the swap, bent the dust plate/backing plates a bit further away from the rotor and all was good again bend it out until it's evenly spaced all around. Tighten your lugs as well.
If that doesn't fix it, it may be the parking brakes rubbing.

Which parts did you use for the swap? All ZJ stuff? If so you may have a caliper/pad dragging if the brackets had divots. the fix for this is to use '06 TJ pads and the associated brake hardware kit (this will include steel overriders for the bracket eliminating the divot issue forever) The TJ pads also have a built in spring to tension/quiet the pads ... my old ZJ pads didn't have this feature (but it may have been a brand specific item - Wagner Thermoquiet's). The calipers between Exploroers, ZJ's and TJ's are the same so no worries on compatibility (I used ZJ backing plates, park shoes and TJ rotors, pads, and calipers myself)
 
I used explorer backing plates, calipers, and shoes and ZJ rotor. It ended up being that little corner by the caliper bracket, just bent it out and now it works perfectly. Figured I might have some issues with having to bend the backing plates to shape because the JY dudes bent them a little when they were moving the vehile around but all the ZJ's had drums and this was the only exlporer with disks so really didnt have a choice. Thanks for all your help, it was GREATLY appreciated. I havent hooked up the e-brake stuff yet, feelin kinda lazy now so will leave that project for later.
 
I do have a question regarding this swap. I ran into an issue when trying to install the rubicon retainer plates...They didnt fit lol. I ended up using the original drum retainer plate and just slid it in between the backing plate and axle flange. Not sure if my backing plates are different or what but after looking at the drum plates and the disk, both surfaces that the retainer goes against are smooth...that being said, I fail to understand why the rubicon retainer would be needed to begin with since the original retainer is pressing on the seal just like it would with the drum plate. Did I miss something? And if so why would it not fit?
 
I do have a question regarding this swap. I ran into an issue when trying to install the rubicon retainer plates...They didnt fit lol. I ended up using the original drum retainer plate and just slid it in between the backing plate and axle flange. Not sure if my backing plates are different or what but after looking at the drum plates and the disk, both surfaces that the retainer goes against are smooth...that being said, I fail to understand why the rubicon retainer would be needed to begin with since the original retainer is pressing on the seal just like it would with the drum plate. Did I miss something? And if so why would it not fit?
The Rubicon retainers have a raised lip to make up the difference in thickness between the drum backing plate and disc backing plate/caliper bracket (.230").

If just using the original D44 bearing retainers, you won't have enough preload on the bearings and the seals won't seat deep enough....your axle could have about 1/4" of end play.

I cut a .230" long piece of schedule 40 pipe (can't remember the dia. but, was a perfect fit), split it in two then, tack welded it back together between the retainer plate and the caliper bracket/backing plate (didn't want to replace the bearings because, they were in really good shape).

Hans
 
I understand that, but the rubicon retainer wasnt thick enough to fit through the front of the caliperbracket/disk backing plate, and was to thick to fit behind it...thus, I ended up using the original xj retainer and slid it behind the disk bracket and plate so it bolted up almost exactly like the original drums. I have no axle play and no leaking as of yet, but will keep checking it to be sure. The only downside I can see is if I ever wanna pull the axle out I will need to take off the entire brake system with it...but whatever.
 
I understand how its SUPPOSED to fit, the problem is that it doesnt. The new retainer plate with the lip is about 1/8" short of sticking out of the caliper mounting/backing plate. Its just not thick enough (or the backing plate/caliper mounting stuff is to thick, depending on how you wanna look at it).
 
......The new retainer plate with the lip is about 1/8" short of sticking out of the caliper mounting/backing plate......
It's not supposed to "stick out"

The stock retainer plate dosen't stick out past the original backing plate, why would you expect the Rubicon retainer to? It sits flat against the backing plate and the bearing/seal protrudes out past the backing plate.

Measure (I used a micrometer) the thickness of the drum brake backing plate and then measure the Explorer caliper bracket/backing plate and you'll see that the difference is the same as the lip on the Rubicon retainer or, just shy of a 1/4" (.230").

I had bought a set of Rubicon retainer plates when I started my conversion but, decided it was easier (and looked cleaner) to just make spacers and fill and redrill the original XJ pattern onto the Explorer brackets/backing plates.....been like that for 7 yrs now with no issues.

Oh, don't forget to address the proportioning valve....just take the guts (spring, piston, cap) from a Grand Cherokee's valve and put them in your XJ valve's body.

Hans
 
you need TJ retainer plates or those rings you add in , from like pro comp. they put the proper pre load on the bearings, otherwise it will be all sloppy in there. maybe you didnt seat the race all the way or something like that if its not fitting. I would be scared to drive on stock XJ retainer plate.
 
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