RE 6130 4.5" kit on ... what now

Okay ... I picked up my 91XJ yesterday---it's going on it's third life since new. I went from a Rancho 3" to RE 6130 4.5" system ... had them add a 3/4" poly spacer to the OEM isolator in order to achieve a level ride height.

After 50 miles here's what I've got now:

Front Driver: 22 3/8"
Front Pass: 22 3/4" (delta=3/8")

Rear Driver: 21 3/4"
Rear Pass: 22 1/4" (delta=1/2")

[Note: measured from center axle to fender flair.]

Needless to say ... this thing is sitting caddywampus. Before RE, my XJ was equal side to side.


Is this normal during the break-in period for RE springs?


Thanks.

Sounds like you might have things a little over torqued. When the lift was installed did you bounce things around before torquing them down to make sure that they're settled into proper positioning?

just my 2 cents

Matt

I didn't bounce anything around because I didn't install it ... I had a shop do it. It does appear the rear pass leaf may be tighter ... definitely measures 1/2" higher than rear driver side----maybe it's forcing the front driver coil spring down a bit ??

I don't know ...

I like the lift ... the ride ... the feel---I'm not in the mood for issues.


Thanks !

Park on a flat, level slab. Loosen the nuts on the bolts at the top and bottom of the rear springs. Maybe loosen the front bolt in each spring also. Then bounce the suspension up and down as vigorously as you can several times to get things settled in. The torque everything up to spec again.

Measure to see if it makes any difference.

Eagle said:

Park on a flat, level slab. Loosen the nuts on the bolts at the top and bottom of the rear springs. Maybe loosen the front bolt in each spring also. Then bounce the suspension up and down as vigorously as you can several times to get things settled in. The torque everything up to spec again.

Measure to see if it makes any difference.

Click to expand...

I would do the front control arms also at the same time before tightening anything back up!

Thanks Eagle ...

Since there's a 90-day warranty on parts/labor I was thinking about waiting until I take it back when it hits 500 miles.

Do you think this could cause other problems ?


FYI: a couple of strange things occured last night:

First... when I was drivng home from work the "Green" "4x Full Time" light on the instrument panel started coming on ... flickering ... and was illuminated in a dimmed-like manner. Then would get brighter ... dimmer ... flickering on-n-off like it had a bad connection or something. It also did the same today for a few minutes----then went away again.

A. The problem is I'm driving in 2-wheel drive mode ... shouldn't be illuminated at all.

B. I had a Currie SYE kit installed on my NP 242... new f/r driveshafts----the works! The new SS brake lines brought my problematic braking back to life ... I'm happy with the outcome.


Second ... it started making a noise up front. I looked and noticed the pass-side adjustable LCA locknut was loose ... joint was at full arc. The pass-side adjustable UCA was also loose. I took it in today and the tech re-torqued it again ... commenting he checked it twice before I took it over to the alignment shop.

A. I think believe him.

B. I don't know for sure, but I don't think the alignment shop loosened these to do the alignment. I was there when they did it and made no comments in regard to adjusting the arms---it drives straight and respectable.


This is why I'm not in the mood for these issues ... I was hoping my old Jeep would survive the surgery without complications.

Any insight would be appreciated ...

Thanks again.

I had a shop install the same RE lift on my '96 6 months ago. My mechanic was obsessive about having the vehicle be level, so it was when I picked it up. No settling ever ocurred either. It's always been level. Since you had a shop do the work, get your money's worth out of them and have them re-level it. I'm sure the install wasn't cheap.

Planet... it wasn't cheap and yes, I do intend on getting my money's worth for the parts and labor---there is absolutely no reason this thing shouldn't be level.

All I know something isn't quite right---I can see it and feel it.


I wonder if RE's springs are all created equal ?

Okay ... so, I dropped by the shop that installed my lift and showed them the rear is already sagging .75" on the driver-side----they looked, but elected not to take measurements to verify for themselves.

I told them that something is just not quite right with the leaf pack ... the three bottom leafs aren't perpendicular and they appear to be fanning out. The u-bolt closest to the tire is cocked toward the tire ... and now I'm finding the axle is 1/4" off-center favoring the passenger-side----how can this happen ??

I told them I took measurements before I brought it in and it measured exactly level side-to-side. That would be 18.75" from center of hub to bottom of fender flair.

We debated the situation. They actually told me if there was a slight .0625" variance from one side to the other ... when you lift it 4.5" it can amplify the variance to .75"----keep in mind I had a 3" Rancho lift when I took the measurements ... so it only went up max 1.75"

Now ... I'm not a Structural Engineer or Metallurgist, but I've worked with Industrial, Mechanical and Bio Engineers daily for almost 30-years. Please help me understand this: Without torsionally disrupting the unibody during the lift installation ... and all suspension components being equal ... how do you get .0625" to magically grow to .75" ??

Or, is RE's component quality at question here ??

Since I'm still holding the trump card ... I hope these two organizations get this problem resolved----I'm losing patience with the BS stories.

RH