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Best aftermarket renix radiator

Z

zebvance

NAXJA Forum User
Location
College Station Texas
Im buying a new radiator for my 1988 4.0 jeep comanche, It has the closed loop style cooling system that the renix engines had. Im looking for a good aftermarket radiator.
I have a few questions

1. Is a 3 row better than a 1 row?
2. Whats a good brand?


I also am going to run a HD fan clutch so I am concerned with a 3 row after market being to think and to close to the fan clutch

I am also looking for one that will be a drop in bolt in replacement with little to no mods.

and last but not least im on a budget . I would like to keep it in the 100 dollar or so range but I am willing to go up to 200 if needed.
 
I run a ALL STOCK setup in my jeep.1989 closed. We have high temps all summer out here in the LOW DESERT in CA and mine runs at 190 to 195.When i hit 200 i think it runs to hot in my books.Keep it stock and run the HD clutch fan on it.Yes i have AC that works in mine.

Good luck, cause i know you'll be told to spend tons of money on something that worked great from day one if you did your service on it.
 
scottmcneal said:
I run a ALL STOCK setup in my jeep.1989 closed. We have high temps all summer out here in the LOW DESERT in CA and mine runs at 190 to 195.When i hit 200 i think it runs to hot in my books.Keep it stock and run the HD clutch fan on it.Yes i have AC that works in mine.

Good luck, cause i know you'll be told to spend tons of money on something that worked great from day one if you did your service on it.
Click to expand...

Do you have a stock electric fan?
 
I ordered an all metal one from Oreillys part number 436019 Saturday. It's listed for $105.99 .... whats strange about it is what it states "plastic tanks" in the description online. The stores computer had metal tanks and he confirmed it with the manufacturer before I ordered it......should be here tommorrow. We'll see. My heep is an 88 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 auto and 4.0l. Same radiator that Advance sells for $190.99.
 
Last edited:
zebvance said:
Im buying a new radiator for my 1988 4.0 jeep comanche, It has the closed loop style cooling system that the renix engines had. Im looking for a good aftermarket radiator.
I have a few questions

1. Is a 3 row better than a 1 row?
2. Whats a good brand?


I also am going to run a HD fan clutch so I am concerned with a 3 row after market being to think and to close to the fan clutch

I am also looking for one that will be a drop in bolt in replacement with little to no mods.

and last but not least im on a budget . I would like to keep it in the 100 dollar or so range but I am willing to go up to 200 if needed.
Click to expand...

I'll usually use Modine or Performance, which I can get locally.

If you can't get anything useful locally, I've gotten consistently good reports form the field about the CSF radiators from Dirk at DPG Offroad (and he's a sponsor, so you'll be helping someone who cares.)

A three-row will not interfere with a heavy-duty fan clutch. I know this, because it's what I run. No trouble.

Keeping the closed system cool is merely a matter of maintenance - just like anything else. Flush every 2-3 years and replace the coolant. Dump in a bottle of RedLine's "Water Wetter" when you fill it up - it won't go amiss.

The only quirk about the close system is purging the engine block of entrapped air - this may be done either by venting through the coolant temp sensor on the back of the head or drilling the thermostat to make it automatic - both methods can be found online here with a bit of searching (several users have posted up about doing the CTS method, I've posted the thermostat flange drilling method in detail.)
 
in my opinion the closed system in inferior to the open. i converted after two tanks and caps would crack or not seal. i never feel the need anymore to pop the hood and look for a leaking cap.
 
toates89 said:
in my opinion the closed system in inferior to the open. i converted after two tanks and caps would crack or not seal. i never feel the need anymore to pop the hood and look for a leaking cap.
Click to expand...

The weak link in that system is the factory surge tank/cap. Fortunately, there is an after market solution from Mac's Radiator. I still pop the hood but I only look at the tank and smile.
duratekphotob_wt.gif


​
 
I use a Volvo cap that is a direct fit, and holds more pressure. I have replaced a couple cracked plastic tanks. In theory, the closed system is more efficient than an open system, many new cars and trucks have closed systems. The weakness in the XJ/MJ is that cap.

To the OP, any local radiator shop has a good two row steel radiator that will work fine.
 
B.RAIDER said:
I ordered an all metal one from Oreillys part number 436019 Saturday. It's listed for $105.99 .... whats strange about it is what it states "plastic tanks" in the description online. The stores computer had metal tanks and he confirmed it with the manufacturer before I ordered it......should be here tommorrow. We'll see. My heep is an 88 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 auto and 4.0l. Same radiator that Advance sells for $190.99.
Click to expand...
Well the radiator came in....all metal...as the store computer stated not the online listing. Looks to be a pretty good radiator. It's also 2 core. Just for you guys information.
 
I'll just throw in that the two row aluminum/plastic radiator I've been using from Performance Radiator has worked great. They claim it works 5% better than the copper radiator it replaced, I'd tend to agree. I just pulled a 2000 lb trailer up over 8000 ft passes in 90 degree weather with a worn out engine without overheating. I did convert to open, but that was my mistake. I figure if a new Mustang with a 5.0 and a supercharger has two closed systems, there must be a reason. And keep burping the baby. It takes a couple of weeks for all the air to work it's way out.
 
Last edited:
Goatman said:
I use a Volvo cap that is a direct fit, and holds more pressure. I have replaced a couple cracked plastic tanks. In theory, the closed system is more efficient than an open system, many new cars and trucks have closed systems. The weakness in the XJ/MJ is that cap.

To the OP, any local radiator shop has a good two row steel radiator that will work fine.
Click to expand...

Volvo cap Napa 703-1396 and a factory stat # 83501426 and all is well. Cool enough in summer and quick warm-ups in winter.
 
toates89 said:
in my opinion the closed system in inferior to the open. i converted after two tanks and caps would crack or not seal. i never feel the need anymore to pop the hood and look for a leaking cap.
Click to expand...

As I've asked before - if it's inferior, why are more OEMs going to the closed system?

Had a 1991 Corsica that was a closed system - ran just fine.
Have a 2005 Suzuki Verona that's closed - no trouble.
I've had five RENIX XJs - the only one that ran hot was converted when I got it - I kept kicking around the idea of retrofitting it back to the OEM closed system.

I've run across many vehicles that have the "closed" system - and every time someone told me that it was overheating due to the "intrinsic nature of the closed cooling system," I'd do a flush and refill and it worked just fine.

The problem isn't the "closed" system - the problem can typically be directly attributed to either:
- Lack of user maintenance
- Single defective component (in the case of the XJ/MJ, the surge tank. I replace mine every five years, and call it good. Haven't fabbed up a replacement yet - I've looked at Mac's, but it's spendy.)

Most often the former.

There is an odd "flaw" in the OEM RENIX radiator - service life seems to run 180Kmiles +/-20K, per Jeep techs I've talked to. They don't replace it with OEM either - while the OEM is a Modine, the aftermarket Modine radiators seem to be better, and they tend to use those instead.

Most people who extol the virtues of the "open system conversion" inadvertently correct the OEM radiator gradually starting to fail - by replacing it with the later OPEN radiator. However, simply replacing the closed system radiator with a quality aftermarket unit would have been sufficient to correct the issues - and a lot less work!
 
5-90 said:
As I've asked before - if it's inferior, why are more OEMs going to the closed system?

Had a 1991 Corsica that was a closed system - ran just fine.
Have a 2005 Suzuki Verona that's closed - no trouble.
I've had five RENIX XJs - the only one that ran hot was converted when I got it - I kept kicking around the idea of retrofitting it back to the OEM closed system.

I've run across many vehicles that have the "closed" system - and every time someone told me that it was overheating due to the "intrinsic nature of the closed cooling system," I'd do a flush and refill and it worked just fine.

The problem isn't the "closed" system - the problem can typically be directly attributed to either:
- Lack of user maintenance
- Single defective component (in the case of the XJ/MJ, the surge tank. I replace mine every five years, and call it good. Haven't fabbed up a replacement yet - I've looked at Mac's, but it's spendy.)

Most often the former.

There is an odd "flaw" in the OEM RENIX radiator - service life seems to run 180Kmiles +/-20K, per Jeep techs I've talked to. They don't replace it with OEM either - while the OEM is a Modine, the aftermarket Modine radiators seem to be better, and they tend to use those instead.

Most people who extol the virtues of the "open system conversion" inadvertently correct the OEM radiator gradually starting to fail - by replacing it with the later OPEN radiator. However, simply replacing the closed system radiator with a quality aftermarket unit would have been sufficient to correct the issues - and a lot less work!
Click to expand...

My experiences exactly.

One of the biggest issues is the stock replacement cap quality. They're junk. always use the Volvo one. Napa 703-1396. Even grips well on an old bottle.
 
The problems I've had with the closed system are enough for me to convert to open. When it's functioning properly, it's fine. The problem is what happens if and when you do overheat. If the cap vents correctly, you get air in the system which means trying to burp the system on the side of the road/trail. That was enough of a pain to make me consider converting. The last time the jeep got hot I was pulling a steep grade with nowhere to pull over. The cap failed to vent and the tank split in at least 6 places. Never again will I be trying to add water via the radiator hose on the side of the road.
 
Th only problem I have with the closed system is the stupid plastic bottle. The repeated heating and cooling, expanding and contracting destroys them. So I bought the metal tank from macs. I have no doubts about my cooling system performing well in the so cal desert
 
B.RAIDER said:
I ordered an all metal one from Oreillys part number 436019 Saturday. It's listed for $105.99 .... whats strange about it is what it states "plastic tanks" in the description online. The stores computer had metal tanks and he confirmed it with the manufacturer before I ordered it......should be here tommorrow. We'll see. My heep is an 88 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 auto and 4.0l. Same radiator that Advance sells for $190.99.
Click to expand...

Thread revival.

I have ordered this part number you listed today. I should have it this evening. I am hoping their online + in store computers are wrong.

They both state plastic tank, 1 row.

Fingers crossed and I will reply this evening with the outcome.

EDIT: on a side note, I am surprised that your information has pretty much been ignored online. I googled your part number in every way I could think of and found ZERO people talking about it on a forum except here. Maybe I need a refresher course in googling.

According to the Oreilly's interchange this radiator only came in the 88,89 and 90 Wagoneer limited. I am really doubting their accuracy BUT when I looked at junkyard interchange I get standard duty or heavy duty as options for the 89 Cherokee. Standard being 1 row and heavy being 2 row but when you look up 89 Cherokee on oreilly's there is only 1 style which is a single row.


Again, I will post an update later tonight.
 
Last edited:
I got it and installed it tonight.

It's a plastic tank, aluminum single row radiator.

I will say though that the row is MUCH wider than the original one I pulled out.
 
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